warped saw blade?

I have a 10 inch Freud table saw blade that is very warped, or bowed, to the point where I can't rip anything if the blade is fully raised because it will bind terribly between the rip fence and the center of the blade. If I lower the blade to 1" it rips smooth as butter, and when I miter cut from the other side of the blade it is similarly smooth, sharp and aligned. If I raise the blade fully and measure flatness of the blade half-way between its center and its outer edge, there is a 0.015 runout or bow. So instead of being flat, the blade is more like a bowl. I'd like to know why this occurred and have 3 ideas, but am not sure which (if any is true):

1) The blade sucks, never was flat, and I need to spend $100 to get a real blade. 2) I overtightened the arbor nut and introduced the warp into the blade. I did tighten it probably too tight, not wanting it to loosen during use. And when I removed the blade, the warpage definitely lessened at least to the point where the teeth made contact with the table when resting flat on either side. 3) My arbor washer is incorrect for the arbor on my unisaw. The diameter of the arbor is 2.5" and makes contact with the blade only on its perimeter. The diameter of my arbor washer is only 1 7/8". So when I overtightened the arbor nut, the smaller arbor washer cause the whole damn blade to cup into the arbor, making a dish shape. Shouldn't the arbor washer be the same size diameter as the arbor?

Thanks for any suggestions, Greg Greg

Reply to
GBannish
Loading thread data ...

The arbor washer and arbor should have the same diameter

Reply to
bowhunter

Freuds work for most people.

For one thing, look into blade manufacture and the pre-stressing (wrong term but it's 4am and I'm tired) that's deliberately introduced with a honking great roller.

Generally arbors are relieved to only make contact around the edge. Your washer _must_ match this contact area, or you're screwed. I'm no Unisaw expert, but that sounds broken.

4) You overheated it and warped it that way.
Reply to
Andy Dingley

Over tightening the nut is the most common issue. The arbor is threaded so that when the saw is spinning the nut self tightens. You only need a few ounces of force on the wrench. In the olden days blades were made from thick plate. Today's premium blades are made from better thinner steel. If the blade is flat, use a steel straight edge across the blade to check, then put it back and don't tighten it as much. max

Reply to
max

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.