I have a hole saw, 2" in diameter that is fastened to a drill bit with a nut
that secures the bit to the cylndrical cutter. How does one get it apart? The
cutter looks like a small tin can with one end missing. That end has the teeth.
The top has a hole for the bit, and two small holes to either side. I have a
suspicion that the two small holes are for a tool to help unloosen the nut
holding the bit.
In the past, I'm sure I used a wrench on the nut and held the cutting tool with
a pliers. Not so easy this time.
I don't completely understand this. Some arbors have a set screw that holes
the center drill bit in place. Is that what you want to get out? Or do you
want to get the saw portion off? Some brands have "disk" on top that must
be pulled up and then the saw is unscrewed from the arbor.
See the two small holes? Is there a piece in them holding it in place? They
must be retracted to unscrew the saw.
The hole saw (the can part) is threaded onto the arbor (the part with
the spiral bit and nut). It must be unscrewed. I usually put a screw
driver thru the side slots and use a wrench on the nut. You could also
put the hole saw in a vice and use a wrench. If you put on some good
leather gloves and hold the hole saw, put a wrench on the nut and tap it
with a hammer, it usually comes loose.
Funny you should ask; I used my new hole saw set today and was wondering
about the same holes. (Blu-Mol?)
If you stick two drill shanks in, it will give you something solid to hold
onto while you remove the arbor with a wrench. At least that is what I came
up with. There is probably some sort of special pin wrench that fits them,
but the drills worked.
Take a look at the above and enlarge the picture. I have this setup. Larger
diameter saws require the arbor with 2 pins that go into the 2 holes on top
for a positive lock. The arbor for the small holes does not have pins and is
not interchangeable with arbor for large holes.
You should be able to get it apart, its right hand thread.
It's made by Vermont American, called a Carbon Hole Saw. Yes, an arbor as you
described it. There are no slide slits, unfortunately. I'm not real comfortable
about putting the can part in the vise in that it might warp the can, although
it seems pretty sturdy. Well, maybe a little oil into the nut and thread. The
two parts are nicely stuck--so far. Back to the bench.
Solved the problem. I put liquid wrench on the nut, grabbed the saw with a rag,
put a wrench on the nut and twisted. Still couldn't get it off, so I took it to
the hardware store, and asked the guy who sold it to me. He did the same thing
but got out a hammer and whacked the wrench a few times. Off it came. I've now
oiled the arbor threads.
put the the hex partof the arbor in a bench vise & use a pipe wrench on
the hole saw; you might have to give the wrench a smack.
Arbors that connect to the hole only with a screw thread tend to get
stuck. The better arbors had a sliding element with two egagement pins
that do the driving. They usually engage before the thread is
A drop of oil on the threads prior to assembly will help prevent
Sorry, Ed, the holes are for the drive lugs. They are not
anywhere near long enough to knock out slugs, though I suppose the
correct punch could be used to do so after the hole saw is removed
from the mandrel. Failure to use the drive lugs will cause the
hole saw to jamb onto the mandrel tenaciously.
(top posted for your convenience)
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
I stand corrected then. That's what I've always used the holes for. I guess
I never had a hole saw that came with drive lugs because I've never seen
them, I usually buy the cheap stuff when I think a tool may be used just
once or twice.