I hate home improvement programs that say "when we come back from break" and
the job is all done.
They were installing a hose sprayer or a detergent bottle or whatever and
needed to "drill" a hole in the stainless steel sink. Just showed the install
vs the actual DRILLING of the hole.
Now this is thin metal but a b*tch to "drill" through when the hole has to be
about 1¼ to 1½ in diameter. I doubt that a VARIBIT will cut this easily.
Would you use BIMETAL hole saw, CARBIDE grit holesaw, or old style CHASSIS
PUNCH ( got to be expensive ) ??
What do the PROS use if they need to do this ?
I use a pointed punch first to mark the spot. Then I drill a small
pilot hole, say 3/16". If it's the smaller hole for a water filter or
dish washer I use a drill. For the larger holes I use a rotary tool
like a Dremel and a short carbide bit working very carefully. It's
noisy, but the metal is so thin that it goes quickly.
Ya, get a good hole saw. Keep it cool with some light and
remember the harder the material the slower the speed and
you will not have any problem. Make a small pilot hole
I cut one for a water filter a couple years ago with a hole
saw. It was
surprisingly quick and easy.
He's using a 40 year old 1/2" Craftsman drill. That probably means
a big aluminum case, a D handle, a motor that runs slow and low
and would probably start your car in a pinch. I have a 50 year
old B&D like that. I drive lag bolts with it and don't worry.
It would not kick, because it weighs to darn much to move based
on what happens at the bit.
IT would be quite different with my plastic case 1/2" (insert
brand) bought in the last 20 or 30 years.
Either way works, hole or knock-out (GreenLee) Use an 1/8'' drill bit
to pilot the holesaw bit, drill slowly and lighten up on the pressure
when you are almost all the way through or you will twist your wrist
depending how powerful of a drill you use. If you use the knock-out,
drill the hole for bolt 3 to 4 sizes over the diameter of the bolt,
Otherwise the piece from the hole will "crimp" around the threads and
strip the threads.
On Thu, 21 Aug 2003 10:37:25 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
On 20 Aug 2003 04:45:54 GMT, email@example.com (Conase) wrote:
A cheap hole saw set will do it in a pinch. To get a clean hole with
even edges, back up the metal with some scrap wood (MDF, pine, etc).
Clamp or brace the scrap wood so that it is tightly held to the metal.
Lightly oil the metal and saw and drill at a slow speed. Take off the
burr with 150-grit sandpaper. Don't know what the pros use, but the
hole saw set is under $8.
To try, push as hard as you can, so the saw will still turn.
Stainless just loves to work-harden, the saw has to be cutting, otherwise
it just hardens the surface for the next tooth.
Grinding off all but a few teeth may help.
However, if I was doing this, and diddn't want to mess around, but just
get it done with minimal tools...
Start by drilling lots of 4mm holes round the edge of the hole, inside the
Use a sharp good quality bit, and push quite hard.
Now, with tinsnips or a hacksaw blade join up all the holes.
For some things (with large bezels) you can leave it here, just run a file or
something to take off the sharpest edges off, and fix on.
Do make sure this is safe to do and won't pierce washers.
However, to do it properly, finish up with an abrasive wheel on a dremel, or
a drill, or at a pinch a file.
Again, if using metal tools (other than carbide) on stainless, push hard so
every tool takes a bite.
http://inquisitor.i.am/ | mailto: firstname.lastname@example.org | Ian Stirling.
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