Cut hole in STAINLESS STEEL sink ???

[Conase]

I hate home improvement programs that say "when we come back from break" and the job is all done.

They were installing a hose sprayer or a detergent bottle or whatever and needed to "drill" a hole in the stainless steel sink. Just showed the install vs the actual DRILLING of the hole.

Now this is thin metal but a b*tch to "drill" through when the hole has to be about 1¼ to 1½ in diameter. I doubt that a VARIBIT will cut this easily.

Would you use BIMETAL hole saw, CARBIDE grit holesaw, or old style CHASSIS PUNCH ( got to be expensive ) ??

What do the PROS use if they need to do this ?

Thanks.

[Commander]

the pro's use a "Greenlee Punch"

[Yaofeng]

I don't think you can do it in your kitchen or garage and make it look nice. I'll get a new sink with holes already cut. But that's me.

Yaofeng

[WasteNotWantNot]

I use a pointed punch first to mark the spot. Then I drill a small pilot hole, say 3/16". If it's the smaller hole for a water filter or dish washer I use a drill. For the larger holes I use a rotary tool like a Dremel and a short carbide bit working very carefully. It's noisy, but the metal is so thin that it goes quickly.

['nuther Bob]

...and you can get one at a local electrical supply. I have no idea if they have special versions for hard metals.

Bob

[Wade Lippman]

I cut one for a water filter a couple years ago with a hole saw. It was surprisingly quick and easy.

[Boots Crofoot]

[Phisherman]

A cheap hole saw set will do it in a pinch. To get a clean hole with even edges, back up the metal with some scrap wood (MDF, pine, etc). Clamp or brace the scrap wood so that it is tightly held to the metal. Lightly oil the metal and saw and drill at a slow speed. Take off the burr with 150-grit sandpaper. Don't know what the pros use, but the hole saw set is under $8.

[Tom J]

An $8.00 hole saw isn't going to cut stainless - ever - even oiled

Tom J

['nuther Bob]

Not to mention, those things are dangerous. Always buy a quality hole saw. In this case, drill a hole and use a Greenlee punch.

Bob

[Ian Stirling]

To try, push as hard as you can, so the saw will still turn.

Stainless just loves to work-harden, the saw has to be cutting, otherwise it just hardens the surface for the next tooth.

Grinding off all but a few teeth may help.

However, if I was doing this, and diddn't want to mess around, but just get it done with minimal tools... Start by drilling lots of 4mm holes round the edge of the hole, inside the target diameter. Use a sharp good quality bit, and push quite hard.

Now, with tinsnips or a hacksaw blade join up all the holes.

For some things (with large bezels) you can leave it here, just run a file or something to take off the sharpest edges off, and fix on.

Do make sure this is safe to do and won't pierce washers.

However, to do it properly, finish up with an abrasive wheel on a dremel, or a drill, or at a pinch a file. Again, if using metal tools (other than carbide) on stainless, push hard so every tool takes a bite.

[Commander]

actually with the "greenlee punch" you can! that IS how it is done!

2nd option

[Commander]

must have been a cheap one from H.D. (24 gauge)

[Commander]

until the hole saw reaches the other side and wants to rip your arm out of socket. USE A "GREENLEE PUNCH"

[Gary Slusser]

"Commander" wrote

I've always used a carbide tipped hole saw with a pilot bit.

Gary Quality Water Associates

[Gary Slusser]

"Commander" wrote

By the time you get the punch together I'll have the hole done.

And I've never had any tugs on my arm, even though I use a 40 year old Craftsman 1/2 hp drill.

Gary Quality Water Associates

[Mike Cain]

I've got to agree with using the GREENLEE PUNCH ... the hell with drilling, cutting, filing! Mike

[Gary Slusser]

"Phisherman" wrote

All the sinks I've drilled were in somone's kitchen counter. There's no way I know of to back them up with wood while you're drilling the hole.

Gary Quality Water Associates

[Gary Slusser]

otherwise

My hole saw only has one carbide tooth.

Gary Quality Water Associates

[Commander]

I use a "uni-bit" (tapered bit) to drill holes if the sink is mounted in the countertop. and a "greenlee punch" if the sink is NOT mounted.