On Fri, 08 Oct 2004 03:29:22 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Dave Mundt) wrote:
not to mention that circular saw blades are thicker than your standard
card scraper, which makes them good candidates for donor material for
cutters for lots of scratch stock blades and specialized little
cutting tools. I have an old 10" blade I've been cutting chunks off of
for a while now....
Yeah, but those come in standard shapes. Make your own and you can
customize them to the job at hand.
I've never done it with a TS blade, but I buy those cheap Japanese saws
with the impulse hardened (read: non-resharpenable) teeth and when the
teeth wear, they're scraper material.
Wow - Thanks for all the responses.
I will replace the blade and get a new one -but not throw it away ;~)
Seems like such a waste though since the warp is not "that" bad.
I'll probably keep it around as a backup, in case I need to cut
something nasty I don't want to expose my new blade to..
BTW: are the <MUCH> more expensive TS blades (Forrest, CMT, Dimar
Freud) really worth the 3x $$$ cost. Keep in mind I'm just a weekend
hack, "building" up my skills with projects for around the house.
I'm not sure I could justify a $150+ TS blade to SWMBO
As a beginner, I'd say yes. Let's say you want to make mortise and tenon
joints. One can spend much $$ for a machine (or many machines) to do this,
but a rather good job can be done with a simple router and a TS. (And,
even with Neander tools, if one is so inclined.) Better technique can
create a better result. But with a TS blade, AFAIK, no technique with a
so-so TS blade can give you as good a result as you can get with the same
technique and a great TS blade. And, the better blades do give better
Overall, FWIW, the way I look at it, there are so many variables when
woodworking that I like to eliminate some by getting the right tool. It is
why I did not buy a used TS and would not buy a used jointer, though I
would buy other used/refurbed tools. Even a new TS has to be set up, and
even a new one can be defective, but I want to reduce the possibility that
bad results are the fault of the tool. So, I have ponied up for the
Forrest blades. -- Igor
I believe high-quality tools make a bigger difference for a beginner because
they cause fewer problems. An experienced woodworker can anticipate and correct
for more problems that someone who is just learning.
Of course the experienced people are also the ones who are most insistent on
having high-quality tools.
I think once you know what it is you want in a tool, you should spend as much
as you can to get the best you can afford.
I was into wood working seriously for about 17 years before buying a
Forrest. I had known about the Forrest about that long and did own some
pretty good blades. I wish I had bought the Forrest to begin with. I never
take it off the saw unless I am cutting questionable material such as PT and
framing lumber. With a properly tuned saw the blade will instill greater
confidence. I have found that it stays sharp much longer than the other
brands that I owned and it rips and cross cuts almost perfectly. Shiny
smooth rips and crosscuts dependent on how flat and straight your wood is.
In the long run, I believe the blade to be cheaper in that I use it for all
my cuts. I recommend the regular kerf.
No doubt Forest is a quality blade. However, I have used for many years
blades made by a local sharpening shop. I have 3 Forest blades, like and
Point is, check with a local service that sharpens blades for commercial
applications and see what they have, many times they are competitively
priced and no waiting.
I agree that this can be an alternative. I use a good sharpening service
for years. Computerized robots that recognized the blade when returned for
additional sharpening and they were sharp. Unfortunately they are unable to
straighten a bent blade and do not make blades. They do sell Systematic and
Amana of which I used Systematic for many years.
I agree with Dave. I've used Forrest blades, and they are good, but no
better results than well treated quality blades from other front-line
The archives hold a thread from about a year ago on sharpening services
that Wreckers use and recommend. Google that, and find one near you that
someone here thinks highly of. And then spend your money with them. And
listen to what they tell you.
My fellow, who's only been at this for 28 years, sold me on FS Tools
blades. It turns out I'm not the only one with a Unisaw who uses these,
although my saw is considerably less experienced than his...
And I had about $40 left over to buy timber...
Lots of folks are pretty fond of some of the blades you mention. From my
perspective, there just isn't enough of a benefit to the blades that cost
that much, to make them worth the investment. If I could see a significant
difference I'd be happy to go with them because I do believe in spending
money on truly better tools, but I just can't see it. I've been woodworking
for 30 years, never as a professional, but I have produced some nice
cabinetry and furniture. I'd put myself squarely in the rank of above
average, or very good, but not artisan. Basic blades have never posed a
problem for me, have never caused any problems in the work I was doing.
I've only had to buy a couple of blades for my TS in all the years I've
owned it and none of them have been more than your basic 40-60 tooth blade
similar to what you'd find in your local BORG or hardware store. I've got a
DeWalt blade in it now and a lot of folks don't like them, but it cuts. It
cuts straight and true, and it stays on the arbor when it spins. What more
can I expect of a blade? After that, it's up to me to get the wood to the
blade at the right point. I've had this blade on the saw for quite a
while - can't really remember when I put it on. It's sawn a lot of
different hardwoods and softwoods. I don't even think about it - I just saw
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