Warped TS blade -repairable?

[igor]

Yes, but it's now a warped plane.

[igor]

As a beginner, I'd say yes. Let's say you want to make mortise and tenon joints. One can spend much $$ for a machine (or many machines) to do this, but a rather good job can be done with a simple router and a TS. (And, even with Neander tools, if one is so inclined.) Better technique can create a better result. But with a TS blade, AFAIK, no technique with a so-so TS blade can give you as good a result as you can get with the same technique and a great TS blade. And, the better blades do give better results.

Overall, FWIW, the way I look at it, there are so many variables when woodworking that I like to eliminate some by getting the right tool. It is why I did not buy a used TS and would not buy a used jointer, though I would buy other used/refurbed tools. Even a new TS has to be set up, and even a new one can be defective, but I want to reduce the possibility that bad results are the fault of the tool. So, I have ponied up for the Forrest blades. -- Igor

[Leon]

Damn, that mirror was in my garage last night. I was cleaning the saw dust up using the gas powered leaf blower. I blow everything out the garage door. Well, I also keep a plastic recycle bin under the jointer to catch

85% of the shavings. OK , I'll use the excuse that it was getting dark and I was between the light and the dark out doors and.....

Basically I was finished when I accidentally aimed the leaf blower in to that almost full bin of shavings. I had a mess 3 times bigger that when I started. It only took 1 second to almost empty that bin.

[Leon]

I was into wood working seriously for about 17 years before buying a Forrest. I had known about the Forrest about that long and did own some pretty good blades. I wish I had bought the Forrest to begin with. I never take it off the saw unless I am cutting questionable material such as PT and framing lumber. With a properly tuned saw the blade will instill greater confidence. I have found that it stays sharp much longer than the other brands that I owned and it rips and cross cuts almost perfectly. Shiny smooth rips and crosscuts dependent on how flat and straight your wood is. In the long run, I believe the blade to be cheaper in that I use it for all my cuts. I recommend the regular kerf.

[TeamCasa]

No doubt Forest is a quality blade. However, I have used for many years blades made by a local sharpening shop. I have 3 Forest blades, like and use them.

Point is, check with a local service that sharpens blades for commercial applications and see what they have, many times they are competitively priced and no waiting.

Dave

Le> I wish I had bought the Forrest to begin with. I never take it off the

[Leon]

I agree that this can be an alternative. I use a good sharpening service for years. Computerized robots that recognized the blade when returned for additional sharpening and they were sharp. Unfortunately they are unable to straighten a bent blade and do not make blades. They do sell Systematic and Amana of which I used Systematic for many years.

[Dave Mundt]

The steel in most blades is NOT that hard. It cuts easily with a hand hacksaw, although, I tend to use either the Sawzall, or, (these days) the small, hand-held Milwaukee Deepcut metalcutting bandsaw. It is true that the blade scraper is thicker than many of them. However, I tend to prefer that. I find that I can often turn two burrs, one on each side, and, get twice the work time out before having to re-sharpen. They also work pretty well for making "scratch stocks" for cutting custom beads into board edges and such. Regards Dave Mundt.

[Lawrence L'Hote]

I use a jewelers saw and it cuts with no problems. With a fine( i.g. 1/0) blade you can cut very small radii. Larry

[Andy Dingley]

But it's usually L6 steel, which will harden well and easily - it's useful stuff.

The rec.knives FAQs are worth reading.

[Rick Cook]

I believe high-quality tools make a bigger difference for a beginner because they cause fewer problems. An experienced woodworker can anticipate and correct for more problems that someone who is just learning.

Of course the experienced people are also the ones who are most insistent on having high-quality tools.

I think once you know what it is you want in a tool, you should spend as much as you can to get the best you can afford.

--RC

[igor]

Agreed.

[patriarch]

"TeamCasa" wrote in news:4166cc9d [e-mail]:

I agree with Dave. I've used Forrest blades, and they are good, but no better results than well treated quality blades from other front-line sources.

The archives hold a thread from about a year ago on sharpening services that Wreckers use and recommend. Google that, and find one near you that someone here thinks highly of. And then spend your money with them. And listen to what they tell you.

My fellow, who's only been at this for 28 years, sold me on FS Tools blades. It turns out I'm not the only one with a Unisaw who uses these, although my saw is considerably less experienced than his...

And I had about $40 left over to buy timber...

Patriarch

[Mike Marlow]

Lots of folks are pretty fond of some of the blades you mention. From my perspective, there just isn't enough of a benefit to the blades that cost that much, to make them worth the investment. If I could see a significant difference I'd be happy to go with them because I do believe in spending money on truly better tools, but I just can't see it. I've been woodworking for 30 years, never as a professional, but I have produced some nice cabinetry and furniture. I'd put myself squarely in the rank of above average, or very good, but not artisan. Basic blades have never posed a problem for me, have never caused any problems in the work I was doing. I've only had to buy a couple of blades for my TS in all the years I've owned it and none of them have been more than your basic 40-60 tooth blade similar to what you'd find in your local BORG or hardware store. I've got a DeWalt blade in it now and a lot of folks don't like them, but it cuts. It cuts straight and true, and it stays on the arbor when it spins. What more can I expect of a blade? After that, it's up to me to get the wood to the blade at the right point. I've had this blade on the saw for quite a while - can't really remember when I put it on. It's sawn a lot of different hardwoods and softwoods. I don't even think about it - I just saw with it.