It's getting time to get another blade. It used to be that Forrest
had only one or two ten inch blades but now there seem to be a
variety. So, any consensus on the best all around blade for a ten
inch contracters saw?
What makes you say that? I have a contractor saw with a $100 Ridge Carbide
blade and it can make a clean cut just like a cabinet saw. Even when I had
a cheap benchtop saw, I used decent blades.
There are many very good blades available. Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Infinity
are just a few. There is a new Freud combination that looks interesting
And, of course, it mostly depends on what kind of work OP wants/needs to
do (assuming the saw is adequate for that kind of work which is probably
W/O that point of reference it's a shot in the dark...
20 years as a professional saw sharpener makes me say that.
You can buy a very good quality 10x50atb+r for 40$ most of the time
and unless you are cutting melamine, metal or have specific
application issues it is a good all around choice.
Most contractors saws I encounter could use a decent alignment blade
to slots, fence to blade, etc. And another after you horse it between
We have different translations of the term "contractor" saw. Sure the ones
carried to job sites get beat up, mis-aligned, and are often used for rough
cutting of plywood or ripping some framing lumber.
For may of us, the so called "contractors" saw is a stationary saw that is
much too large to be carried around and is never moved from its spot in the
shop. It is used for cabinet and fine furniture making more than typical
job site uses. We use quality blades for quality finished cuts from quality
woods. Far different application than ripping a 2 x.
Most contractor saws I encounter have never been moved, never been to a
My Ridgid 3612 is called a "contractor saw" because it has exposed legs
rather than an enclosed base and motor hangs out the back. But a Forrest WW
II blade work wonderfully for me. It produces very smooth cuts with less
effort several combination blades that I have tried.
I have carefully aligned the bald to the miter slots and then aligned the
fence to the blade. I do re-check the alignment periodically but it s quite
Of course, I don't "horse" the saw around from site to site. It has been in
my workshop since the day that I bought it.
Contractor saw is not the same a a saw used by contractors.
Amen! Just about ANY table saw that's properly aligned will do a decent
job with just about any blade. An excellent blade (thinking some of the
Freud's and Forrest blades, here) won't do squat in a poorly set up saw
whether it's a Unisaur or ...
I have a Freud that I bought some 25 years ago and used to rip down 2x's
in a early 70's vintage Craftsman RAS. I had that RAS aligned dead-on
and kept it that way. The cut edges looked like they'd been run through
a jointer. Break the edges and you were ready to finish. I didn't
believe it the first time I saw it but it truly cut that well in a
properly aligned RAS.
OK, just asking... :)
My recommendations would still hinge on what kind of work you do...
One can hardly go wrong w/ most any of the reasonable-quality
combination blades for general use. The really high-quality blades are
really only noticeable in difference for high-precision work.
(IMO, ymmv, $0.02, etc., etc., ...)
There was a review of quite a number in FWW a few(?) issues ago. As I
recall, the best overall blades weren't the highest-priced in their
evaluation of cut quality, but I don't recall the precise brand/models
that came out as "best". Perhaps a search at the FWW site might find
the review article although they seem to have put most of the archives
behind the "pay" portal... :(
Sat, Jun 9, 2007, 8:58am email@example.com doth query:
It's getting time to get another blade. It used to be that Forrest had
only one or two ten inch blades but now there seem to be a variety. So,
any consensus on the best all around blade for a ten inch contracters
Not a brand, but I've got a carbide tip blade that makes a cut
right at 1/8". Makes figuring measurements simpler.
If a man does his best, what else is there?
- General George S. Patton
IMHO the Forrest is very hard to beat. WWII 40 tooth for 2" and thinner
stock with REGULAR KERF.
There are a few that cut as good, several that cut almost as good and maybe
more than you can count that are decent.
A good quality blade that has been taken care of, read that as resharpened
before the teeth have been dull for a long period of time, can be
resharpened 10-15 times.
Keeping that in mind, If you resharpen and flatten 10 times, a new Forrest
will cost you about $500 for the blade and to be brought to new condition 10
times, including initial investment, sharpening, flattening, and S&H.
While many of the cheaper bladed cut really well, how many times can they be
resharpened and how long do they stay sharp?
I suggest avoiding thin kerf blades to achieve the flattest cuts. I finally
quit using thin kerf about 18 years ago when I was shown that a good quality
regular kerf blade would cut better than a thin kerf with a marginally
slower feed rate on a 1 hp saw. I went to my resharpener/dealer and asked
about a good quality combo blade. He sent me home with a Systematic combo
regular kerf with the understanding that I could bring the blade back within
a couple of weeks if I was not happy with the performance and quality of
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