I have a slight gloat, but will keep it to just telling that I had
given [free] a whole pile of rough lumber; oak, cherry, walnut.
Looking for minimal waste. Some boards, just a few, are warped
[twisted]. Is there a way to untwist? I know warped can be
straightened with water on one side and heat on the other ["Furniture
doctor".] I can't see putting a warped, twisted board through a
thickness planer since it will want to wobble.
Some, like the oak have a bit of black water stain. I'm assuming that
can be removed with oxalic acid? How about black dry mold?
IMO, the best way to deal with a warped board is a) cut it into small enough
pieces that you can minimize the amount of warp within a section to have
something you can work with or b) use it as firewood. The reason it is
warped in the first place is because due to stresses locked into the board,
the naturally sought that shape. Anything like putting water on it is only
going to (maybe) temporarily solve the problem. If you can get the pieces
small enough so they can be planed and still end up with something thick
enough to use, what I do is use a carrier board through my planer and use
hot-melt glue to stabilize the board as it goes through. Once one side is
flat, I take it off the carrier and plane the other side.
Good advice. Thanks, I'll try that.
Hot-melt is strong enough to hold again any mechanical twisting
through the planer? Or do you need shims to make stable on at least
three points? Anyhow, it sounds like a good approach with tweaks.
Yes, I got this tip a few months ago (maybe from Todd!) and it works
great. I have a sled of 13x36 MDF that I glue the "high" corners to and
take straight to the planer. The board is now stable on four points
(two wood, and two glue). A few passes later, I pop the corner dobs of
glue off with an old chisel and then do the other side. I use two
spots of glue about the size of a nickel for a board up to 20" long,
plus one in the middle for longer boards.
This method has changed my life. I had a nice piece of figured cherry,
and was able to salvage the twisted last 2 feet to be able to carry the
grain around the top and side of a cabinet.
I know this should be another topic, but what the hey, it's about hot
glue. I use it to do the back of frames [mirror, or picture.] Not
the wood, but the brown paper cover. Lay a line of glue around
[near] the inner edge of the back. Let it dry. The paper is pre-cut
to size. Put one corner on the set glue and touch with your hot
flatiron. Stretch a bit to the next corner and tack that down also
using the iron. Complete the other corners. Now run the iron lightly
across the paper edge to melt the glue and adhere the paper to the
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