I don't know that it'd make much difference but the biggest difference I
see in the windows is simply the full-length/width for the surface area
as opposed to the limited (relative) size of the loose tenon.
If they're cut as I suggested, I can't think there'd be any
time-savings, either; one gets multiple joints in one pass on the ends
by coping whereas each has to have both ends done as individual
operation otherwise; four operations per joint, total.
Then again, as we've often noted here, I'm an old traditional kinda'
guy, too...I just like the cope fit.
Yes. But most interior. There are specific Dominos tenons made for out
The large Domino will handle up to 3" deep on both sides IIRC. Tenon 6"
long. But I may have missed something in the OP post. I understood
that he would possibly reuse old wood and repair joints. The larger
Domino would work for that.
Certainly if building new! Again I thought he might be repairing and
using the old wood.
I'd wondered about that...they should stay dry-enough in the application
but the more extreme temp/humididee swings made me ask...what's the
difference in the splines/tenons, you know?
Many old windows weren't actually glued; they simply used a headless
nail as a "peg" in the joints. With the advent of modern glues, I
believe commercial windows now are universally glued; probably with
urea-formaldehyde or the like I'd presume...
I wasn't aware there was anything that large available...then again,
there's never been a dealer where I've been located; I've never actually
seen one of them live...
Seemed to me he had discounted the idea as too many too far gone...otoh,
I'd be likely to be dissassembling and making pieces to fit; probably at
higher level of effort and time than building new simply to salvage as
much of the original as could...just on the principle of the thing. :)
It's not just that. If make new for one then it will unless I'm very
careful in my selection of wood have a different interior appearance
from the others, and I'm not all that enamored of the appearance as they
are (note by the way that I'm not wedded to cypress--choice of wood is
still somewhat up in the air and will depend on whether I've got surplus
to spend). Also they are all single glazed and while I could get
individual double-glazed units that would fit where each existing pane
came out, they would be too thin to be really effective and there would
be an awful lot of them--better IMO to make new sash intended to fit
double-glazing and to use false muntins instead of tiny panes.
Just don't like them. I like the classical mortise and
Of course, I'm not a production shop cutting thousands of
mortises a year, so I can afford to be old school. I cut
my tenons by hand with a Lie-Neilsen tenon saw most of
the time, something else you wouldn't do.
J. Clarke's 400-odd mortise and tenons, spread over 3 or 4
years as he appears to envision, seems to me practical to
do in the classical way.
Well, I looked at the Dominos today. The little one is right out--I
don't see where it offers any advantages over the XL and there wouldn't
be enough mortise depth past the cope to provide much benefit. The XL
can go 2.75 inches deep which is a big improvement. Be dandy for
windows but a little short for full sized frame-and-panel doors.
Come to think the Leigh will have a similar limitation--it can't cut any
deeper than the longest router bit I can get.
OK, I think that's going to be the deciding factor--the Domino and the
Leigh would be working at the limit of what they can do, the Powermatic
will be right in the middle of its capability range on doors--the
windows should be a breeze for it.
Unless there's a compelling argument otherwise that I've missed.
And actually the larger domino will "normally" accept down to a 8mm bit.
Keep in mind also that the Domino only comes with one sized cutter
unless you buy the assortment of Dominos also.
You will need/want to attach a vac to the Domino to keep the holes
cleaned out. With that combination virtually no saw dust or shavings
escape. It is a very clean operation.
And just a few other things to consider. There is no risk with buying a
Domino mortiser. You can use it for 30 days and if it will not do what
you want it to do you can return it, no problem.
I predominately use 5mm domino tenons, I am on my 3rd box of 1,800 and I
went through the initial 600 that came with the assortment also. So
that is about 4800 Dominos in the 5mm size and 9600 mortises.
That is a load of mortises. I am still using the original 5mm cutter
bit and have never had it resharpened. Considering a regular chisel
and bit mortiser, how often do you think you will have to resharpen the
I am not trying to sell you or steer you in any direction so much as
giving you views of my experience. I have not turned my Delta mortiser
on in over 8 years since getting the Domino.
One thing that I have not mentioned. While the Domino mortisers have an
indexing system to register the location from the end of a board, I do
not trust it.
Every joint that I use the Domino on I use an exact fit mortise on one
mating piece and an elongated mortice on the other mating piece, you
simply adjust a dial to do this. This gives you wiggle room of about
1/8" left and right, probably a bit more with larger bits. This also
lets you make marks on mating pieces for placement like you would with a
biscuit joiner. I typically cut the exact fit mortise on the end of a
board, the rail and the elongated mortise on the edge of a board, the stile.
I think Swingman has mentioned a time or two getting the bigger Domino.
I think for a furniture and cabinet builder that the 500 is perfect.
While the big one would be nice to have, I seriously doubt that a
furniture/cabinet maker would ever need more than the 500.
The Domino makes quality builds a dream come true with its accuracy and
lightning speed compared to conventional machinery like a mortiser.
I am convened that a woodworker that is serious about building quality
furniture that the Domino is an answer to many how do I do it questions.
In Clark's case he has a particular need and the 700 could possibly be
"the answer" if "he" can make it work. IMHO if he could make it work
the 700 would be used much more in future projects than a mortiser.
That was exactly my point. Unless you're a door-maker or
butcher-block maker (are there any of those?) I don't see the need for
the 700. Maybe if you want to build a house without nails... ;-)
The 500 is probably the slickest tool around, though.
Near as I can tell, there is one thing that the 500 will do that the 700
will not--the 500 has an extra width setting (its settings are an exact
fit, 6mm wider, and 10mm wider, the XL only does the exact and 6, not
the 10). I thought this would matter but there aren't wider tenons to
take advantage of it near as I can tell and cutting wider seems pretty
easy anyway. That makes the 700 a very easy decision and at this point
I'm leaning in that direction. In fact I'm leaning pretty hard in that
direction. I'd be making storm windows with it right now if I hadn't
found out when I got to Woodcraft that I had FORGOTTEN MY DARNED
WALLET!!! Turns out that that Festool even has instructions in the user
manual for using it with coped sash.
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