Are you talking about the Leigh FMT? If so where is the plastic? The
Pro is machined frome extruded aluminum, the Super is stamped steel.
While that's how it's normally used, there's no reason I can think of
why it can't be used to make mortises that accept tenons cut by other
means. The only difficulty I can see is alignment and the rounded ends,
but those issues apply to any router-cut mortise that doesn't have a
matching tenoner (one of the attractions of the Leigh is that cuts
matching mortises and tenons).
The Leighs are on my list of options to consider--pricing for the
aluminum one is in the same ballpark as the Dominos or a good hollow-
chisel mortiser, the steel one is about half as much. I can't find much
on using one for making sash though.
The big Domino for these repairs although you could probably get away
with the smaller Domino assuming the parts are repairable. You can use
up to a 10mm floating tennon with the smaller one. And you are much
more likely to use the smaller one after this is behind you. BUT you
are limited to about 2" tenons with the small one, 1" might not be
enough reach to get through decorative joinery.
If the joints are the only issue the Domino may be all you need, and a
vac to hook up to it.
Take one of your windows to your local Festool Dealer and have them show
you how it is done.
It would be much easier to give a recommendation if you gave complete
information. You left out when you plan to die.
I commend you on doing this project though, much more than I'm willing
to tackle. Recently had a triple window installed in the living room
and tomorrow he is coming to measure five more for bedrooms that I want
done before winter. Marvin New Generation windows and Azek trim outside
so no more painting!
Post some photos when you get it underway.
"Old-school" and my recommendation is the traditional full-length
one-piece tenon cut with stub spindle on shaper. If many of the windows
are of the same size, one can cut as many rails/stiles/muntins to length
in one operation as the material stock is wide-enough to allow, then
"stick" the ends before ripping to width and running the matching
moulding on sides. It is a quite efficient operation; see the old
Rockwell/Delta "Using the Shaper" book (there are at least a couple pdf
copies linked to at OWWM site) for a very detailed description of the
Being as it's not so easy to find the stub spindles and matching cutters
for smaller shapers any more, but CMT and Amana and perhaps some others
now make router bit sets for the purpose, I'd suggest that route as most
That is an outstanding refernce. Thank you for the suggestion. For
anyone else looking for it I'm not going to slashdot the link I found by
posting it here, but the exact title is "Getting the Most Out Of Your
Shaper" by Sam Brown, which was in publication from some time in the
1930s on into the 80s. Amazon has numerous copies in various editions
and conditions ranging from 99 cents up to two thousand bucks!?!?!. I
have seen some with publication number 4535 and others with number
4575--I have no idea what the difference is.
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
Ignoring the question of the viability of the project, since
many others have already expressed opinions on that...
If I were attempting this, I think I would build a horizontal
mortising table to use the 3hp router (probably look for a
design with the router fixed and a sliding table for the
workpiece being mortised)(*).
I'd use a tenoning jig on the table saw (either shop-made or
store bought, depending on how enthusiastic I felt about jig
It seems likely that there'll be a lot of common parts (I'm
guessing all the windows will take the same size mortises and
tenons, etc), so you'll only be doing one setup (which is the
time-consuming part) for each. Then just repeatedly pushing
wood thru the machine. Not as much work as a fancy cabinet
with a hundred different sized parts, really.
(* the alternative would be a dedicated mortising machine.
I have one, and use it, but it's a pain because of the poor
fence and holddown. It's OK for a dozen or so mortises at
a time for something like cabinet doors, but for a project
like yours I think you'd need an industrial class machine
like the Powermatic 719. I think a horizontal router table
and accepting the round-end mortises would be simpler and
cheaper in this case.)
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