Mortising and tenoning doors and windows

Since I have probably cut in excess of 20,000 mortises in the past 8 years with my Domino and maybe before that less than 100 with my mortiser between 1998 and 2008 I am a very big fan of the floating tennon. No failures yet and an "Enormous" time saver.

I would be interested in hearing what you objection would be to using loose tenons.

Reply to
Leon
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;~)

Reply to
Leon

On 09/12/2016 4:48 PM, Leon wrote: ...

Have you used any for exterior application, Leon?

I don't know that it'd make much difference but the biggest difference I see in the windows is simply the full-length/width for the surface area as opposed to the limited (relative) size of the loose tenon.

If they're cut as I suggested, I can't think there'd be any time-savings, either; one gets multiple joints in one pass on the ends by coping whereas each has to have both ends done as individual operation otherwise; four operations per joint, total.

Then again, as we've often noted here, I'm an old traditional kinda' guy, too...I just like the cope fit.

Reply to
dpb

Um, because they're loose. Duh.

Reply to
-MIKE-

That is an outstanding refernce. Thank you for the suggestion. For anyone else looking for it I'm not going to slashdot the link I found by posting it here, but the exact title is "Getting the Most Out Of Your Shaper" by Sam Brown, which was in publication from some time in the

1930s on into the 80s. Amazon has numerous copies in various editions and conditions ranging from 99 cents up to two thousand bucks!?!?!. I have seen some with publication number 4535 and others with number 4575--I have no idea what the difference is.
Reply to
J. Clarke

I hadn't really thought about a floor-standing mortiser--I generally think of those as "too expensive" but the Powermatic is midway between the two Dominos and would fit right in with doing the coped tenons that dpb suggested (which was the direction I was leaning anyway).

Thank you.

Reply to
J. Clarke

Leon wrote in news:w6udnbxP_IVev0rKnZ2dnUU7- snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Just don't like them. I like the classical mortise and tenon.

Of course, I'm not a production shop cutting thousands of mortises a year, so I can afford to be old school. I cut my tenons by hand with a Lie-Neilsen tenon saw most of the time, something else you wouldn't do.

J. Clarke's 400-odd mortise and tenons, spread over 3 or 4 years as he appears to envision, seems to me practical to do in the classical way.

John

Reply to
John McCoy

Yes. But most interior. There are specific Dominos tenons made for out door applications.

The large Domino will handle up to 3" deep on both sides IIRC. Tenon 6" long. But I may have missed something in the OP post. I understood that he would possibly reuse old wood and repair joints. The larger Domino would work for that.

Certainly if building new! Again I thought he might be repairing and using the old wood.

Reply to
Leon

Um not when you glue them in. They are only loose until the glue dries.

Reply to
Leon

An absolute valid reason. ;~)

Reply to
Leon

HA! Gotcha!! I was makin a funny. :-p

Reply to
-MIKE-

;~)

Reply to
Leon

...

I'd wondered about that...they should stay dry-enough in the application but the more extreme temp/humididee swings made me ask...what's the difference in the splines/tenons, you know?

Many old windows weren't actually glued; they simply used a headless nail as a "peg" in the joints. With the advent of modern glues, I believe commercial windows now are universally glued; probably with urea-formaldehyde or the like I'd presume...

...

...

I wasn't aware there was anything that large available...then again, there's never been a dealer where I've been located; I've never actually seen one of them live...

Seemed to me he had discounted the idea as too many too far gone...otoh, I'd be likely to be dissassembling and making pieces to fit; probably at higher level of effort and time than building new simply to salvage as much of the original as could...just on the principle of the thing. :)

Reply to
dpb

Sipo Mahogany tenons

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I would be clueless on both counts. ;~)

Sorry, actually, 19/32" to 2-3/4" (15-70 mm, 5 mm increments) but you can buy tenons in lengths of up to 750mm long, Cut to desired length.

Sure, at a certain point repairing can be more trouble than simply building new.

Reply to
Leon

This thread has been a real education, for me. I barely knew what a mortise/tenon joint was, let alone a loose tenon. So, my question is about the Rockler Beadlock system. Is this not a good system? Is that why it is not listed. Or......?

nb

Reply to
notbob

I've never used it but suspect it is fine. Just a LOT of holes to drill and non-standard tenons.

Reply to
dadiOH

The biggest problem with exact fit is no wiggle room. With a Domino you can allow for a touch of wiggle room, much like a biscuit joiner. With dowels and beadlock your holes must be placed perfectly.

Reply to
Leon

It's not just that. If make new for one then it will unless I'm very careful in my selection of wood have a different interior appearance from the others, and I'm not all that enamored of the appearance as they are (note by the way that I'm not wedded to cypress--choice of wood is still somewhat up in the air and will depend on whether I've got surplus to spend). Also they are all single glazed and while I could get individual double-glazed units that would fit where each existing pane came out, they would be too thin to be really effective and there would be an awful lot of them--better IMO to make new sash intended to fit double-glazing and to use false muntins instead of tiny panes.

Reply to
J. Clarke

And making it work well with coping I suspect would be a pain.

Reply to
J. Clarke

just received this link today...any interest/comments?:

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Reply to
bnwelch

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