SWMBO say's if he's not obviously pissed/scowling, it's a smile. I saved the
big smile for right after cutting the first mortise, considering that I
futzed with the necessity of damn near a separate, shop made, mortising jig
for every single mortise on my current project.
Actually, the second hardest part in gearing up for the first cut was making
the mobile base; the first, finding a place to put it.
The machine is intuitive in its methodology and the learning curve basically
non-existent for cutting mortises, which is what is needed for the current
project, and most of my future projects using mortises and loose/floating
tenon joinery. Judging from what I've seen with DJM, and from talking with
other owners/DAGSing, this is the number one use for the machine.
Tenons are a bit more complicated, but not much, and only because they
require the use of templates, which the three tables follow using a stylus.
Mortises don't need templates, and at this stage, neither do I. Template$
Basically the multi-router is three tables; the router is attached to a
vertical table, which moves in the z axis, with sliding stops which can be
set to define the up and down limits of a cut; and two horizontal tables,
which move in the x and y axis, both having stops which can be set to limit
length and depth of cut.
It's that simple, and if you've ever used a stop block for a cut, you're off
to the races immediately.
FWIW, the engineering is absolute awesome. I don't think I've ever seen
another piece of woodworking equipment with this level of precision.
Every wooddorker needs to put his hands on one just for the fun of it ...
but, what really makes the multi-router experience astounding is all that
previous screwing around with the time consuming, imprecision of homemade
mortising jigs for compound angled joinery.
Never aspired to the honor ... what a smart Normite does is mentally bank a
nickel for every M&T joint he's cut by hand down through the years, add
those cut after moving up to table saws, drill presses and hollow chisel
mortisers, and when he gets old enough he can then spend all that hard
earned cash on a Multi-router to comfort him in his old age.
There are some benefits to being an old man ...
The Z axis is always in line with the spindle axis. The slide that the
router is mounted to moves along the Y axis. The stock is moved along the X
and Z. What the multi router is is a horizontal milling machine.
If you meant to say that your typical horizontal mill has more features, I
will agree with you. The horizontal mill, with its calibrated measuring
system, power feeds in all axis, ability to take a very wide variety of
cutter, variable spindle drive, (often) swiveling table and easy conversion
to a lathe tend to give it a might bit of an edge. Years ago, there was a
horizontal mill on the market that was about equivalent to the Multi Router.
It was known as a hand milling machine. It gave way to far more versatile
machines. I have not seen one in quite a number of years.
In the woodworking world (after all, this is a woodworking forum and the
thread is dealing with a machine that was designed specifically for
_woodworking joinery_) the closest machine is known commonly by woodworkers
as a "slot mortiser", which some also class as a "horizontal milling
machine". AAMOF, an old Burke horizontal milling machine is used in one
local millworks as a slot mortiser for their door division.
You know, CW ... it doesn't pay to try and get along with you. I figured you
wouldn't be able to resist and would show your usual know-it-all, smart ass
on that one.
This is a woodworking forum ... keep that firmly in mind when you read/reply
to posts that deal with machinery designed with woodworking in mind.
Now, once again, go fuck yourself.
Be careful of your assumptions, and your reference.
The _documented_ axis reference for the Multi-router is as follows:
The "z" axis is the up and down axis of the vertical table.
The "y" axis is left and right movement of the horizontal table.
The "x" axis is the in and out movement (toward the vertical table) of the
horizontal table, in line with the "spindle axis".
Then they don't know themselves. You can call a rotation to the left
clockwise if you want, still doesn't make it right. The axis direction, as I
described, is an international standard in the machine tool industry, based
on the Cartesian coordinate system. My point of reference is 20 years in the
industry. Working for and with users and producers of machine tools,
machining any type of machineable material.
Though it doesn't have guides for tenons, the Robland X31 combi comes
with a horizontal boring/mortising set up - the bit in a V chuck on the'
end of the jointer/joiner - planer cutter head, an X-Y-Z table to hold
move the stock. In/Out and Left/Right stops complete the set up.
See second and third pics on this page.
The X31 sells for around six grand. the Multi-router - with bare
essentials is around $2000? For another four grand you get
a 10", 3hp table saw with sliding table, 3 hp shaper with 1 1/4"
bore, a 12" planer AND a 12" joiner/jointer - in addition to the
horizontal mortiser with Left/Right, In/Out and Up/Down table.
(Notice how I avoided getting into which is X, which is Y and
which is Z? Fortunatel, there's no pitch or yaw.
And here's a slick jig Ray McInnes came up with for it that extends
its capabilities. Handy if you do chairs.
Biggest shortcoming of these things is the table size. Building a four
or six panel door on it is a bit tricky. Gerald Masgai has it worked
Have a look at his process for making a four panel door - using loose
tenon joinery and the mortiser on the X31. Click on "continue" at the
bottom of each page to get to the next page.
Will the Multi-Router handle door building?
Oh, BTW - YOU SUCK!
So uh Swingman it $ound$ like you developed a li$p. Have you gotten any
saw dust on the multi router yet???
I have been heavily debating purchasing a Fein Multimaster to help with
exterior repairs around the house. I really like the plunge saw feature.
Rockler has the XL steel case version on close out price for $297. I recall
you saying that you have one. Do you have the profile sander accessory and
if so is it any good?
Just the kind from a few test cuts ... been too damn busy.
I have a finger style and the tri-cornered sander accessory ... don't know
if that is what you're speaking of. I am not all that impressed with its use
as a sander, although it will get in some corners that few other tools will.
I really don't have many accessories as I didn't buy the full monte.
I used the saw accessory just this last week to free a lost circuit behind
some cabinets for a builder friend. It beats the hell out today's
carpenter/plumber/electrician's way ... a sawz-all.
You're certainly welcome to try it out before you buy. I would recommend
doing that. Just come by and pick it up.
>I have been heavily debating purchasing a Fein Multimaster to help with
>exterior repairs around the house.
If you get one, get ALL the carbide blades offered.
Bite the bullet once.
BTW, you will find uses for it you never dreamed of.
> Yes, the bigger kits look like the cheaper way to go.
> I often have to cut through nails to remove wood easily. My only
> that the blades would not last very long.
I abuse a lot of tools.
Working with fiberglass does that.
I've had no problems with carbide; however, I don't even think about
HSS, so can't comment on them.
BTW, Klingspor has H&L paper at reasonable price.
You're not stuck with Fein paper.
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