The fence offset MUST ABSOLUTELY BE SET EXACTLY to the the depth of the
cut. Apply pressure to the in feed side until you have enough on the
out feed side that you can finish the pass.
I can tell you how to do this on your TS, if you have a TS, and a scrap
piece of plywood that is 3+' long.
Yeah, even using a jointer is a learned talent. Using a router table
increases the difficulty because it does not compare to a jointer.
Theoretically you should be able to saw a board as accurately with a hand
saw as with a TS. See where I'm going here? :-). The less appropriate
the tool, the less you should expect.
Since you want to think that your holding method is at fault rather than
your fence haves not being parallel, let me suggest that you not move your
hands. There is no need to, left hand holds the work against the outfeed
fence, right hand moves it along. Now, if the work were much more than 36"
long, you would have to move your right hand but not your left; no matter,
left is still holding it where it should be.
Trust me, all is true, been doing it that way for more than 30 years.
On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 1:56:44 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
Hearing and vision were enough to prove to me that the issue was my holding
The fact that I just perfectly jointed a board that fit within the fence
width, requiring no need for me to move my hands along the stock, convinces
me all the more.
I just changed my feed method and hand positions. I did not change my fences.
I was able to joint a 36" board without any bumps.
I was previously holding the board down and against fence with both hands
on the out-feed side. Even tried paddles. This time, partially based on
your wording, I installed a feather board to hold the board down and placed
my left hand on the table, keeping pressure on outside edge of the board to
hold it against the out-feed table while moving it with my right. Perfectly
Bottom line is that it wasn't that I *wanted* to think my holding method
was at fault, it was 100% true that my holding method was at fault. There
was/is no issue with my fences.
Thanks for your suggestion regarding a different holding method.
YAY!. As a refinement, you don't need the featherboard, your left hand can
easily hold it both in and down.
There remains the reason behind your bumps. Even holding it as you
described, there should have been none. For a bump to arise, the board has
to have slightly moved away from the bit, then moved laterally, then
returned to the bit. The simplest explanation is that there was a fulcrum;
ie, the fence halves were not parallel.The other explanation is that you
were physically moving the work to create the bump. In either case, I'd
think the problem would be immediately obvious. Why wasn't it?
On Monday, January 15, 2018 at 8:28:15 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
Belt and suspenders. Easily attached, provides peace of mind.
Exactly - as previously stated very early in this thread.
I'm not sure why you keep going back to the fences. In the post you just
responded to I stated that I did not have to adjust the fences to eliminate
the bumps. It was all caused by improper hand positioning.
See your "For a bump to arise" sentence above. Also, that fact was previously
stated very early in this thread.
Because if the fences were parallel and you kept the work against the fence
when changing hands you should not have made a bump. If they were NOT
parallel there would be a fulcrum; if you applied greater/lesser pressure
toward the fence on the work piece on one side or the other of the fulcrum,
you'd get a bump; if you applied pressure correctly, no bump even if the
fences were less than parallel.
IOW, holding as you did should not cause a bump.
I should have said, "In either case, I'd think the SOLUTION would be
Assuming the fences are positioned correctly, and the pressure is
corrrect whether held to the fence manually or with feather boards,
there may be a speed factor. If you move the piece through the bit too
fast, as the densities of the wood change ie knots, the bumps may be
created as the piece moves away from the fence as the bit cuts around
the denser wood.
I know I have problems with bumps because of unknown knots in the wood.
2017: The year we learn to play the great game of Euchre
On Monday, January 15, 2018 at 10:16:23 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
Do you know how I was holding it when the bumps were created vs. how I
modified the holding process?
It should be painfully obvious by now that fences are/were fine based on the
fact that I have repeatedly said (and if I ever wanted to post in all caps,
this would be the time) I am now able to get a perfectly jointed edge without
ever having changed the positioning of the fences.
If the fences were part of the problem I seriously doubt that I would have
been able to eliminate the bumps simply my changing the feed method/hand
Please stop bringing the fences into this situation. I'm not saying that a
fence mis-alignment wouldn't cause this problem, I'm saying that the fences
(imagine all caps again) were not a factor in this specific case.
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