snipped-for-privacy@notreal.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
How strong is a wood glue joint if both pieces have been shellaced first? I wonder if the wood glue causes a slight swelling in doing its magic.
Puckdropper
GEEZ! Poplar is not oily. Just get out of here and glue up your panels. Man, the old wives' tales have been coming back around this groups for decades.
Two 7.5" and one 5.5" board to be trimmed down to ~18". But, and this is a big but...
Here is a close up of one of the 7.25" boards:
The boards are already edge glued, consisting of random 3/4" to ~2" strips.
A local lumber yard carries them as "paint grade" boards, at a much lower cost than clear poplar. They are dead flat and the joints are so tight the only way that they are visible is because of the change in grain.
I spoke to a couple of contractors that frequent the lumber yard and they can't say enough good things about these boards. We'll see.
I was trying to be nice. ;-)
One down, one to go. MLK Day will be WW Day. I hope to get the face frames done and to start working on the doors.
PFFT! Well, then we're already talking about glued up panels. Nothing to worry about. I used a bunch of those in pine a couple days ago and I use them all the time for wide shelf panels. I love them. They are very stable and a good way to save time.
My only advice would be to try to rip them to size at the glue joints if possible to maintain a consistent width in the laminated boards.
Color variations aside (hard to avoid with poplar) those all look like nice, straight grained segments. You should have great results.
Actually, what started me down this jointing and gluing path was the POS pine panel that I bought at Lowes last week.
I think this is what I bought but it was shrink wrapped. (I tossed the packaging and can't find the receipt right now.)
It seemed to be perfectly flat in the store, but once I cross cut it in half, it warped so fast I could almost watch it bend. ;-)
By the next morning one piece rocked diagonally corner to corner and when I put the 2 halves face to face there's an ~3/32 gap at the center of the 20" width. They look like this: ()
If Lowe's won't take it back with just the receipt, I've got $32 worth of "quick burn" material for the fire pit.
When I buy them, I always check the ends at the end grain to see if they are alternated, grain-wise. Most of those are made in Brazil in factories that don't have the most skilled laborers. So it's worth it to make sure the grain patterns are alternating on each and every laminated board.
Oh, and Lowes will take back just about anything... even if it's just for store credit.
Probably not strong at all. Now you have two bonds--the shellac-to-wood bond and the glue-to-shellac bond.
YAY!. As a refinement, you don't need the featherboard, your left hand can easily hold it both in and down.
There remains the reason behind your bumps. Even holding it as you described, there should have been none. For a bump to arise, the board has to have slightly moved away from the bit, then moved laterally, then returned to the bit. The simplest explanation is that there was a fulcrum; ie, the fence halves were not parallel.The other explanation is that you were physically moving the work to create the bump. In either case, I'd think the problem would be immediately obvious. Why wasn't it?
Belt and suspenders. Easily attached, provides peace of mind.
Exactly - as previously stated very early in this thread.
I'm not sure why you keep going back to the fences. In the post you just responded to I stated that I did not have to adjust the fences to eliminate the bumps. It was all caused by improper hand positioning.
See your "For a bump to arise" sentence above. Also, that fact was previously stated very early in this thread.
It was. Why do you think I started this thread?
Because if the fences were parallel and you kept the work against the fence when changing hands you should not have made a bump. If they were NOT parallel there would be a fulcrum; if you applied greater/lesser pressure toward the fence on the work piece on one side or the other of the fulcrum, you'd get a bump; if you applied pressure correctly, no bump even if the fences were less than parallel.
IOW, holding as you did should not cause a bump.
I should have said, "In either case, I'd think the SOLUTION would be immediately obvious."
Assuming the fences are positioned correctly, and the pressure is corrrect whether held to the fence manually or with feather boards, there may be a speed factor. If you move the piece through the bit too fast, as the densities of the wood change ie knots, the bumps may be created as the piece moves away from the fence as the bit cuts around the denser wood.
I know I have problems with bumps because of unknown knots in the wood.
Do you know how I was holding it when the bumps were created vs. how I modified the holding process?
It should be painfully obvious by now that fences are/were fine based on the fact that I have repeatedly said (and if I ever wanted to post in all caps, this would be the time) I am now able to get a perfectly jointed edge without ever having changed the positioning of the fences.
If the fences were part of the problem I seriously doubt that I would have been able to eliminate the bumps simply my changing the feed method/hand positions.
Please stop bringing the fences into this situation. I'm not saying that a fence mis-alignment wouldn't cause this problem, I'm saying that the fences (imagine all caps again) were not a factor in this specific case.
Cut with a sharp tool, likely not. Scorched, perhaps.
Brand new Whiteside bit, straight out of the box. Pretty darn sharp.
I'll let you know if the glue-up ever fails. ;-)
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