Jointing On A Router Table - Can't Keep Even Pressure

I'm trying to joint some 1 x 8 poplar on my router table so I can glue up a panel. Each piece is 36" long. I have the out-feed fence 1/16" proud of the in-feed fence.

I understand that you are supposed to keep pressure on the out-feed fence but I can't seem to keep even pressure as I move the board along. At 36" long I have to move my hands and when I do, I get a bump in the jointed edge. I tried to clamp 2 feather boards to the table on the out-feed side, but I'm still getting 2-3 bumps on the jointed edge because of hand movement.

Neither fence nor the table is long enough to use push paddles for the entire 36". Is that part of the problem?

Is there any way to get rid of the bumps so I can do a gap free glue-up?

Reply to
DerbyDad03
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jointed edge.

Bumps, not indents. Can you sand the bumps off? I'm aware you prefer to get the best results using the router, but sanding may be your last resort. Unless someone has a resolution to your issue.

I'm suspecting your fences are not in line, on the same plane, parallel.... hence the "wobble" in the motion of the run through the cutter, i.e., it's not the movement of your hands or hands' position. Mis-aligned fences w ould make the ends of your finished (erred) cut be out of line with the res t of the length of the board/edge, despite any bumps, i.e., even if you san d them down. Does that make sense?

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

There's a technique for making a curved edge (an arch), using the jointer: Lower the outfeed table, hence, you get an arced/arched edge. This seems to be similar to what you are experiencing, but you are blaming it on your hand-movement positions.

Check that your fences are coplanar.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

I have not joined on a router, but frequently use the router to create profiles on picture frames. I have found that I get the best results using feather boards on the in fed and out feed ends of the router. This then keeps the piece firmly against the fence on both sides to the bit for the length of the piece. With the fence I only have to keep the piece flat against the table, which I fine easier that trying to keep it against the fence and the table. Without the feather board I find the I tend to get waves in the route.

The router table is a Sears router table to which I attache a standard router. The fence is only about 18". I use a one piece fence with an opening for the bit. I have had good results using this technique with frames as long as 40 inches.

I suspect that the same technique may work when joining.

Reply to
Keith Nuttle

I have had good results clamping an aluminum straight edge to the top of the board and running a router along the side with a longish bit. I don't think I'd want to try using the router table for this purpose.

Best of luck.

Reply to
Michael

o get the best results using the router, but sanding may be your last resor t. Unless someone has a resolution to your issue.

.. hence the "wobble" in the motion of the run through the cutter, i.e., it 's not the movement of your hands or hands' position. Mis-aligned fences would make the ends of your finished (erred) cut be out of line with the r est of the length of the board/edge, despite any bumps, i.e., even if you s and them down. Does that make sense?

Either I'm not understanding what you are saying or you misunderstand me. Not arguing, just trying to clarify.

Here's my side of it...let me know if I'm missing what you are saying.

When jointing on a router table, the fences are *supposed* to be mis-aligne d. The out-feed fence is supposed to be about 1/16" closer to the operator tha n the in-feed fence. The bit is then aligned flush with the face of the out-f eed fence. With pressure kept on the out-feed table, you are supposed to get an edge that is flat and perfect square with the face of the board, just like on a jointer.

My problem is that I am not able to keep consistent pressure on the out-feed fence as I reposition my hands. I get the bump shown below because board is moving away from the bit just a little, therefore less than 1/16" of wood is being removed until my hands are back in place applying pressure against the fence.

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While sanding or planing is a possible solution, there is always the danger of taking off just a little to much and causing a gap. From what I've read or watched, this method is supposed to work, so ether it's my technique or my equipment.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Just FYI...It's jointing, not joining.

When jointing on a router table, you don't want pressure on the in-feed fence. All pressure should be on the out-feed fence which is supposed to be proud of the in-feed fence and flush with the cutting surface of the bit. See here:

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Reply to
DerbyDad03

That is an option and may be my next step. However, jointing on a router table is fairly common. I suspect my long boards relative to the fence may be the issue. I'm fine most of the time, but all it takes is a just a little less pressure on out-feed fence to cause the bump.

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See here for one of many vids on jointing with a router table.

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Reply to
DerbyDad03

I am curious. Are you not able to glue from the table saw rips?

Reply to
Michael

It is my understanding that the best glue-ups come via this process:

1 - Joint one edge to make it perfect straight and square 2 - Rip the board parallel on the TS with the jointed edge against the fence 3 - Very lightly joint the ripped edge to remove any saw marks.

My table saw leaves a very clean edge, but my router table leaves a edge that is buttery smooth.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

The fence offset MUST ABSOLUTELY BE SET EXACTLY to the the depth of the cut. Apply pressure to the in feed side until you have enough on the out feed side that you can finish the pass.

I can tell you how to do this on your TS, if you have a TS, and a scrap piece of plywood that is 3+' long.

Reply to
Leon

I think it is joining.

Well, yes you do, until you have enough on the out feed side to apply pressure to and not both at the same time.

All pressure should be on the out-feed fence which is supposed

He acknowledges my comment above, pressure on the in feed to begin.

Reply to
Leon

yes

NO! This introduces error, the same you are having problems with. If you have tooth marks you need to set you saw up better and or be using a better blade. Joining the opposite side after the rip can cause the board to taper.

Reply to
Leon

As I said above this is precisely the problem that I was having when routing the profiles on picture frames. While manually holding the piece, the piece would tend to wiggle near the end of the piece or when I readjusted my hands.

The use of in fed and out fed feather board prevented this wiggle. The feather boards do not need to place a lot of pressure on the piece just enough to hold it firmly against the fence.

Reply to
Keith Nuttle

I'm pretty sure it's jointing

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Right. My problem is that with a 36" board, there is more time spent on the out-feed side than the in-feed side. What is your definition of "enough" on the out feed side? If I switch to putting pressure on the out-feed fence after 12" or even 18" I still have to move my hands at least once or I'll run out of fence or table from a "hand position" perspective. That's when my bump occurs.

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No argument there. I'll agree that I wasn't clear when I talked about "no pressure on the in-feed fence". Obviously, you need pressure on the in_feed fence at the start of the feed.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

While the second pass may not be needed (more on that later) I don't see the connection between the second jointing pass and my problem. My problem is a pressure related problem that has nothing to do with a second pass. There doesn't even need to be table saw in the room for my problem to occur. ;-) I'm not even getting past Step 1.

They talk about a very light pass in this thread:

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I don't have a jointer (obviously) but how can a light pass cause the board to taper? Whether jointing on a router table or on a jointer, aren't you taking off the same amount of wood along the entire length of the board?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Yes, the out-feed fence is flush with the cutting surface of the bit.

Yes, but my problem is on the out-feed side. While working on the out-feed side, any, *any* let-up in pressure against the fence causes the bump.

Thanks, but I am aware of that method.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

2a - Make sure you've used your Glue Line Rip blade.

Nope. No saw marks needed. See 2a (above).

Not the best for a glue up.

Reply to
krw

I wondered about that as well. A really smooth surface won't soak up the glue as well and you could squeeze out too much when clamping.

Reply to
Michael

So you're saying that jointing with a router should be avoided?

Why are there so many articles and videos from so many sources detailing the technique?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

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