Does the bottle state the product works on glass? Don't look, I'll tell you. No, it doesn't.
The glass comparison is totally irrelevant. The glue doesn't work on many many things, but that in no way supports your "smooth surface" theory.
I think it's to protect it from betting bumped or nicked up. I used hard maple on my dado jig because the surfaces are always protected by the opposing sides.
No, it really isn't. It's a mechanical connection.
No, it doesn't because it needs a mechanical connection to the surface. That requires a texture, much as they tell you to rough up gloss paint before repainting (after cure).
No, it really isn't.
Yes, it is. It's just an order of magnitude or so different. It's still a mechanical connection. It's not like a plastic glue, where it's more of a weld.
Aluminum doesn't dent? I'd go for the maple (or perhaps white oak) for a long-term use jig, too.
DerbyDad03 wrote in news:79638a7b-5870-4e5c-a4f7- snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Not necessarily, no -- and that's what can produce a taper.
With the proper glue no problem.
A book anybody who _thinks_ they know anything about glue should read:
If you're not a chemist you're probably going to find out that everything you _think_ you know is wrong.
Paint isn't glue and not all "mechanical" connections are the same. I don't think you truly understand how wood glue bonds. In any case, I think we may closer to being on the same page than we think.
I believe you are correct when you say a surface can be "too smooth." When I was at a home show, some years back, I spoke at length to a representative of Franklin Adhesives who was also a chemical engineer who worked in adhesive development for years until retiring to be a rep at these home shows.
It was another time that this subject had come up and I asked him about it. He said it was almost impossible to get a wood surface too smooth to adhere well with glues, using most woodworking power tools. He did say that the surface could be "burnished" to the point that would weaken the joint somewhat, but it would still be strong enough for most glue joints. He added that he knew of no woodworking power tools that would yield this kind of surface.
He then when on to say, "If you are ever in doubt, all you have to do is put a drop of water on the surface of the wood. If it soaks in, it's fine. If it beads up and sits on the surface, then hit it with some 220 grit and glue it up."
There we have it. Plastic glue is a solvent, not a glue. :-p
I never said nor implied that it doesn't dent. I'm guessing it's harder and more stable than oak.
All still irrelevant since the context of this discussion if a wood/PVA glue bond.
OK, let's stop arguing about stuff that doesn't matter to this thread and get back to the actual issue.
Bottom line: Are you saying that the surfaces created by a straight router bit on the edges of two 1 x poplar boards is too smooth for Titebond III to perform its designed task?
I don't know what he's saying, but I'll say no. Some advice, though. You'd be amazed at how much smoother (smaller "bumps") a surface you get with a larger diameter bit at a higher speed and slower feed rate with the stock.
I suppose someone could do the math, but I'm sure you can picture that the larger the diameter of the cutter head, the larger the radius of the cut, meaning fewer and smoother "bumps."
In ANY case! Many times, when using a jointer (JOINER!, nor wait! JOINTER! No, no, it's joinyerterner!) or router, I am often in the habit of "planing" the edge surfaces with light passes of 100-120 grit with a hard surface sanding pad (block of wood) if I'm dissatisfied with the smoothness of the surface.
I RARELY do that when said surfaces are to be glued together. And have never done so when using the table saw and rip blade to prep the boards to be glued together.
I'm making 2 panels from 1 x stock. Each will have 2 seams. Each will see more or less the same use/abuse since they will both be used as tops for the base cabinets for the bookcase project. (similar to yours)
I already glued up one panel with boards jointed with a 24 tooth rip blade.
I then figured out what I was doing wrong with my hands and jointed 3 other boards with a 1/2" straight bit on my router table. I'll be gluing up that panel tomorrow.
I will mark the underside of each panel as to the jointing method used. I will do my best to remember to revive this thread if either of the panels fail during my lifetime.
By that time I'll probably be able to post a hologram version of the failed joint image that I'll create with the MRI machine that I'll build with my 3D printer array.
Yes, there may be something to that. A blunt (carbide) bit both cuts and slightly crushes the wood as it passes. That crushing closes the ends of the wood fiber, and makes glues less effective.
For high quality veneering (and plywood) the surface quality from an acute (low-angle) plane, or from light sanding, is preferred for glue bond. D-day gliders, manufactured in quantity, were all sandpapered before assembly and glue-up.
Titebond recommends acetone wipe for oily woods, and " A good bonding surface can also be achieved by sanding or planing the wood just before gluing the joints." but there's no harm applying the same advice to poplar.
Haha! Please don't pay too much attention to the people trying to make rocket surgery out of this. IIRC, you were joining two 9" wide boards to make 18", correct? If I were worried about anything, I would be worried about cupping on those panels. I would rather join four 4.5" boards than two 9" ones.
If I have the exact dimension wrong, forgive me, but I'm sure there's something out in google land that tell the maximum width for sub-panels in a wide panel glue-up.
Also keep in mind that this maximum width will change depending on the grain orientation of the wood. I've seen solid, single plank panels, 20+ inches wide that were dead flat after 50 years. They just happened to be made from 1/4" sawn stock that must've been from some seriously old-growth threes. You have to have 4ft logs to get that kind of width with 1/4 sawn boards. :-)
In my case, it's a brand new Whiteside bit. Right out the case and into the "jointer"/router.
They also say, regarding oily woods (which I don't believe poplar to be):
"For either type of wood, planing, jointing, or sanding shortly before bonding will remove the contaminating layer and allow successful bonding." The use of acetone says "otherwise" meaning if not jointed shortly before bonding.
I'm sure my router jointed edges are going to be just fine.
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