Jointing On A Router Table - Can't Keep Even Pressure

Many articles and videos are simply some one repeating what they saw or heard, right or wrong. Joining with a router table is much like hand nailing with nail gun nails. It can be done but is it the preferred or best way to do it?

Why does a jointer work better than using a router table to join boards?

To begin with "mass", the jointer is heavy and absorbs vibration and is typically all iron so that it does not flex. The router table is pretty much light weight by comparison and not as stiff.

When you are joining on a jointer you use the weight of the material to help hold the work against the cutter and indexing surfaces. Not to mention it is easier to push down vs. sideways like on a RT. And you can use your body weight to pus down on the work as it goes through a jointer. Your weight is not used to keep the work against the cutter on a router table.

One more thing on you technique that may not have been covered. When you are running the work on the RT are you straightening the convex edge of the board? If not you will be changing feed direction all through the cut if the fence on both sides is not as long as the work.

Reply to
Leon
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Me too. And FWIW I had a jointer for a couple of decades, I hardly used it after getting decent saws and blades. And I would be happy to compare glue lines. ;~) My track saw is my edge joiner now.

Reply to
Leon

LOL....

Reply to
Leon

I can guarantee you that aluminum angle is not straight enough to form a glue line surface.

Reply to
Leon

There is also the possibility that you are applying too much pressure and slightly bending the board as you are feeding it. If so the board could spring back slightly if even pressure is not applied.

Reply to
Leon

Thanks for the info on this. I think was Norm who once talked about not clamping too hard because it would squeeze all the glue out of a joint. I've always kept that in the back of my mind.

Reply to
Michael

Yeah, there are a lot of old wives' tales in woodworking and those are three of them. Glue doesn't "bite" and holds perfectly fine to "buttery smooth" surface. The glue staved thing is mostly a myth. The proper amount of glue is enough glue to lightly coat the surfaces, and if wanted, allowed to "soak in" for a minute before joining together and clamping. And that is usually too much. :-) Like you said, if there's *any* squeeze-out at all, it's enough. As for clamping, again I will say I think most people would be very surprised by how little pressure is actually required for a properly clamped glue joint. Most people, myself included, use WAY too much pressure and way too much glue.

Reply to
-MIKE-

It's only straight if it's attached to something straight. :-) I think in the article in the link, it's attached to a straight board and hopefully triple checked. I believe the aluminum is there to give the router bit bearing a hard, smooth surface to reference.

Reply to
-MIKE-

Since you want to think that your holding method is at fault rather than your fence haves not being parallel, let me suggest that you not move your hands. There is no need to, left hand holds the work against the outfeed fence, right hand moves it along. Now, if the work were much more than 36" long, you would have to move your right hand but not your left; no matter, left is still holding it where it should be.

Trust me, all is true, been doing it that way for more than 30 years.

Reply to
dadiOH

I just "jointed" some boards with a freshly sharpened 24 tooth rip blade. When "joined", the "joints" look good. ;-)

I'm going to go with them for the ~18" wide top for my base cabinets. 2 seams. They will be screwed to supports inside the cabinet (and painted) so if the joints ever fail, the panels will be easy to replace.

It's a learning experience.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

HALVES

Reply to
dadiOH

On 1/14/2018 1:13 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote: Snip

If you are going cross grain with your supports leave the screw holes a little big to give the wood some wiggle room during seasonal climate changes.

Your joints should not fail... ;~)

Reply to
Leon

Yeah, and what are the chances of that board staying straight through out the year. Probably a better choice would have been to use a straight piece of plywood. LOL. I think the aluminum would dent or nick pretty easily.

Reply to
Leon

True with the plywood, of course. I think aluminum isn't a bad choice because it wouldn't dull the bit if it got nicked. I used hard maple for the bearing guides on my dado jig and it works great.

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Reply to
-MIKE-

Hearing and vision were enough to prove to me that the issue was my holding method.

The fact that I just perfectly jointed a board that fit within the fence width, requiring no need for me to move my hands along the stock, convinces me all the more.

I just changed my feed method and hand positions. I did not change my fences. I was able to joint a 36" board without any bumps.

I was previously holding the board down and against fence with both hands on the out-feed side. Even tried paddles. This time, partially based on your wording, I installed a feather board to hold the board down and placed my left hand on the table, keeping pressure on outside edge of the board to hold it against the out-feed table while moving it with my right. Perfectly jointed edge.

Bottom line is that it wasn't that I *wanted* to think my holding method was at fault, it was 100% true that my holding method was at fault. There was/is no issue with my fences.

Thanks for your suggestion regarding a different holding method.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I don't think the issue is tooth marks (there shouldn't be any). The issue is the "polished surface". The glue has to have something to bite into. A polished surface doesn't work. Try using Titebond on glass.

Reply to
krw

Try it with glass.

Reply to
krw

But why does the bearing need a surface harder than a board. It's not very sharp. ;-)

Reply to
krw

That is simply not true and a completely apples to oranges... well, no, actually a wood to glass comparison.

Reply to
-MIKE-

Apples and Gorillas

Reply to
DerbyDad03

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