Jointing On A Router Table - Can't Keep Even Pressure

Here's an option that uses aluminum a slightly different manner.

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Reply to
DerbyDad03
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No, just that a table saw, properly set up, is good enough.

I have no idea. Maybe because if all you have a hammer, the entire world looks like a screw?

However, the point I was trying to make was that a glass-like surface may not be best for a (wood) glue joint.

Reply to
krw

In many cases I'd agree with that, but that seems a stretch in this instance. Too many sources and nary a single detractor that I know of.

I'll let you know. ;-)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I've used this method also but I couldn't get it to work as well. I can't remember exactly why but I had to make several passes to get it perfect. User operator error of some kind, I'm sure.

Reply to
Michael

Join the club! I'm sure I'm doing something wrong too.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

There are so many articles because people don't have decent table saws nor blades. He's right. A great rip blade and properly tuned table saw are all you need.

I don't agree with the comment about glass-like surface however. The glue doesn't know the difference.

I used to do a LOT of stuff with my router until I got a good table saw and blades. About the only thing I do with the router, now, are curved profiles.

A good rip blade leaves a much smoother surface than a jointer. The rotation of the TB blade is running parallel to the joint, while the router and jointer blades are rotations are running perpendicular to it. You will always have some bumping, no matter how small, with that orientation.

Reply to
-MIKE-

Correct!

Correct!

I'm suspecting the two fences, outfeed and infeed, are not parallel, despite their being offset. They are not exactly coplanar. They need to be offset and they also need to be perfectly coplanar.

I suspect your hand movement is giving you a misjudged idea of why you are having the bump. It's not your hand movement that's the (main, if at all) problem. Check to make sure your fences are coplanar, despite their being offset.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

ite their being offset. They are not exactly coplanar. They need to be offset and they also need to be perfectly coplanar.

e having the bump. It's not your hand movement that's the (main, if at al l) problem. Check to make sure your fences are coplanar, despite their bei ng offset.

As to a dedicated jointer, both infeed and outfeed tables are normally para llel to one another. They need to be perfectly parallel. They are also o ffset, depending on how much wood thickness one wants to remove, and the in feed table is lowered by that much.

With the outfeed table lowered well below the infeed table (and cutter head ), one can purposely joint an arch, along the edge. In this case, the tabl es still remain coplanar.

The arch can also be done if the back end of the outfeed table is lowered r elative to the front end, i.e., angled, hence, the two tables are no longer coplanar, since the outfeed has been angled. This technique is rarely us ed, except for larger than "normal" arches, because it's sometimes difficul t to realign the table, perfectly parallel, to the infeed table. Once set , one should not mess with the alignment (coplanar) of the tables.

Again, check that your fences are coplanar, despite their being offset. W hatever straight edge you use for this gauging, double check that its edge is, in fact, straight. ....and the offset is what it's suppose to be all along the whole length of the outfeed fence, relative to the infeed fence. Relative to the infeed fence, if the offset is not the same all along the full length of the outfeed fence, then your fences are not coplanar.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

No, it us a little confusing. A jointer is a machine, what Lee Valley is selling. The apparatus. To prepaid and join., is joining. :-)

It's hard enough on a small jointer. Settings have to be perfect. And as with most anything where you provide the fed rate an inconsistent feed rate results is an inconsistent result. Practice eventually makes perfect. My hat is off to you for giving this a try but, as you now see, this is not as easy as it appears.

Reply to
Leon

You're not taking a big bite out of the wood. I can't imagine that your h and control is not adequate for stable/controlled cutting. If the coplana r hypothesis is not the problem, then the only other things I can think of is a dull bit or it's turning in the wrong direction.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

Thanks for not making me explain that. :-). Inconsistent feed results in inconsistent results. :-). Welcome to the AR club. :-)

Theoretically the router table and fence can do what you want to happen. But every thing has to be perfect. And something, including possibly your inexperience is affecting your out come. This will is a relatively difficult task, it is not something you just do perfectly right off the bat. Practice, practice, practice. Or use tour TS to get your straight edge.

A TS And a surface planer both have fixed indexing surfaces. Your hands are not a fixed surface. The rip fence on your TS and the table on a planer are hard fixed reference surfaces. Those surfaces are a hard fixed surface opposite the cutter. Your hands don't come close to providing an absolute fixed surface opposite the cutter on a jointer or router bit. To be accurate you have to remove variables. Your hand feed rate is a constant variable.

Reply to
Leon

Yeah, even using a jointer is a learned talent. Using a router table increases the difficulty because it does not compare to a jointer. Theoretically you should be able to saw a board as accurately with a hand saw as with a TS. See where I'm going here? :-). The less appropriate the tool, the less you should expect.

Reply to
Leon

The tool is jointer. The

Reply to
Leon

Either I'm not understanding what you are saying or you misunderstand me. Not arguing, just trying to clarify.

Here's my side of it...let me know if I'm missing what you are saying.

When jointing on a router table, the fences are *supposed* to be mis-aligned. The out-feed fence is supposed to be about 1/16" closer to the operator than the in-feed fence.

Yes, fences are supposed to be mis-aligned but they are also supposed to be parallel. Yours don't seem to be. Easiest way to set them...

  1. Set both sides in line, slightly back of front edge of bit
  2. Run a piece of wood through until you have at least a foot on the outfeed side
  3. Turn off router and close the gap between work piece and fence by moving outfeed fence to work piece
Reply to
dadiOH

Except for the bumps :)

Reply to
dadiOH

Sonny, I'd love to agree with you here, but when I can hear the router change sounds and see the wood move away from the fence as I shift my hands, and then see the bump (or bumps) exactly where I expect them to be, I have to blame it on my hands.

Sometimes I get one if I am ever, so so careful and slow, others times I get 2 or 3, but they are *always* positioned exactly where the wood is contacting the bit when my hands shift position.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I actually added that at the end of my post and then deleted it before hitting send. :-)

Reply to
DerbyDad03

By "prepaid", I assume you mean "prepare". If that's the case, I have to respectfully disagree.

Maybe we aren't talking about the same thing or using the words in the same context. I was responding to Keith's comments, which involve the preparation step only.

First he said: "I have not joined on a router"

Then, after discusses his use of feathers boards on the in-feed and out-feed side he said "I suspect that the same technique may work when joining."

Therefore he is talking about the preparation of the edges only. As far as I can tell from everything I've read, the preparation step is called jointing.

From the same Veritas page:

"One of the great advantages of the Veritas router table fence is that it makes jointing easy." Jointing, as in the process, not the apparatus.

From (if you trust wikipedia):

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Here they discuss both the preparation process (jointing), the apparatus (jointer) and the subsequent operation of putting the components together (joining).

"Edge jointing or just jointing is the process of making the edge of a wooden board straight and true in preparation for subsequent operations, often ultimately leading to joining two or more components together. Traditionally, jointing was performed using a jointer plane. Modern techniques include the use of a jointer machine, a hand held router and straight edge, or a table- mounted router. Although the process derives its name from the primary task of straightening an edge prior to joining, the term jointing is used whenever this process is performed, regardless of the application."

From:

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The title of article and video is "Jointing Boards for Dead-Flat Panel Glue-Ups"

I could go on. Everything I can find refers to the process of prepping the board as jointing. Then you join them, creating a joint.

I am certainly willing to admit being wrong, but then so must be all the sources that use the term jointing for the preparation process.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Yes, prepare. And NP if you disagree.

FWIW I used to call it jointing long ago....

But,

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We can leave it there. ;~)

Reply to
Leon

There is a lot of back and forth on this. Typical yellow/wood glue is not a good gap filler and works best with a minimum of product in the joint. Tooth marks create gaps. Additionally there is a lot of back and forth talk on starving a joint by squeezing glue out of it. Glue starvation as it is often called is when there is no or not enough glue on the surface to begin with not because you had squeeze out. You get squeeze out because there was too much glue in the joint to begin with. If you don't get squeeze out you have no indicator that the joint is tight. I have never had a joint fail because of too much clamping pressure and causing too much glue to squeeze out. Remember, a quality glue joint line is one that is almost invisible.

Reply to
Leon

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