using router table as a jointer

Is something preventing you from looking up the old thread and re-reading it?

Which side has less material so it needs the shim?

I don't mean to be rude, but.... did you spend even five seconds thinking about which side needs the shim before you posted? I understand you're new to a lot of this, and need some help here and there, but you really need to think things through a bit.

If the in feed is at the same depth as the bit, would it cut?

It's not your equipment, it's your thinking. You already know you need to shim, and you already know which side has less wood.

BTW, is there some hidden logic to why you have the no-archive switch? Pretty silly when you think about it - since you're getting replies you post will live on.

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So I need to install the shim underneath the outfeed side. Then make sure the outfeed side is even with the cutting head. Then the infeed side will be automatically below the cutting head by the thickness of the shim?

See, I have a small beginning ryobi router table. I only have a single piece fence.

The in feed and the out feed cannot be on the same plane. Regardless, this is not going to be much good for longer boards. Build a TS jig to straighten your board edges.

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Forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean they cant be on the same plane? Is it useless to try to joint boards on this router table?

I have looked at table saw jigs for jo> >

If your fence is all one piece it is on a single plane, right? If your fence does not have inividual in feed and out feed surfaces they would be on the same plane. If your fence has seperate infeed and out feed surfaces you need to shim your out feed fence surface so that it is parellel but not coplaner to the in feed fence surface.

My jig is simply a 8' long by 12" wide "straight piece" of 3/4" thick plywood. I set it on the saw table and run its long edge along the rip fence with the rip fence adjusted so that the opposite long edge is next to the saw blade. I attached 2 toggle clamps with screws anywhere on the plywood sled so that they will hold the board that I want to straighten. Place the board that you want to straighten on the sled with only the curved edge overhanging where the blade will cut and clamp it down.

One of the most useful tools anyone can own for woodworking or anything else is a brain. You were born with one, use it.

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x-no-archive:yes

I only have a small table top table saw.

How do you clamp the board to the sled? I mean, wouldnt the clamps interfere with the sled "sliding"? I know I am misunderstanding this somehow.

Can this work for edge jointing boards to glue togther?

See what happens when you think? :)

yes. using a router table as a jointer requires a split fence.

note that you can get that result by building up the face of the outfeed side of a single feed fence. putting a shim behind the outfeed side of a single piece fence won't work.

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I am a little confused, this is what I was thinking:

Making two boards attached to my single feed fence to serve as an auxillary fence. Placing aluminum coil piece as a shim underneath the outfeed side of the auxillary fence. When the outfeed side and blade are even, there should be a gap from the infeed fence to the blade of whatever the aluminum shim thickness is.

This w> > x-no-archive:yes

What's frightening is all the things you have to keep in mind while using this equipment if you want to keep all your fingers.

Care and thought! Think through everything before you plug anything in. I don't think the NG will help with this.

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That would limit you.

The toggle clamps are near the fence on the right side of the board that is being straightened. The blade is on the opposite side of the board. Basically the sled simply carries the board through in a straight line.

I mean, wouldnt the clamps

The clamps are attached on top of the plywood with screws that do not go all the way through the bottom of the plywood sled.

That sounds reasonable. But with a short fence don't expect too much unless you are straightening short pieces of wood.