jointers

Boo! Hiss! You should be punished for that one.

Sand. I have a drum sander so I might just as well use it. Edges don't get sanded. For joints, that's pretty important. OTOH, the saw is going to get to the edges anyway.

I can see where the European style would be preferable. I hadn't seen that before.

I thought of that for a minute but now that you mention it, it's probably not a good idea. Turning it off in the middle of a cut probably wouldn't be good. I also turn off my saw with my hip. It keeps my hands free and eyes on them.

The Jet JWJ-8HH has cranks. The new Laguna has the levers. I played with a Powermatic at Woodcraft. I couldn't figure out how to use them. I got that they moved the table and that twisting them did something but locking the lever also locked the twist.

I have two 20A circuits, one for the DC and the other for the tools (they aren't going to be used at the same time). A 30A (3HP) circuit would be a RPITA.

We have both (two of each, actually). With the shortage of power tools, no one has anything right now. I'm really not ready to buy quite yet so maybe the situation will correct itself before I am.

Yeah. I'm done moving tools like that in my pickup. I gust about ruptured a duck getting the lathe from the pickup into the basement. I would have left it until morning but it was supposed to rain. I didn't think it would be a good idea.

The old one had fixed wheels. From the ratings it was an issue moosing it around the shop.

Two birds with one stone....

Me too but I rarely use it after the planer, more for smoothing out BS rough cut, thicknessing a rough cut.

I do edge sand cabinet doors and drawer fronts. Now I use the new Festool attachment for that. Yesterday I edge sanded 16 drawer fronts, twice.

Once for the 90 degree edge and then again for the 45 degree champher/bevel that I added to the front outside edge on the router table.

I think it is 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. I hated the slap of the pork vchop on my old jointer.

I stand corrected. And YES the Powermatic is really strange. It's like they wanted to be different but not in a good way.

Yes, and why I have a long 10/3 extension cord.

I understand the "over seas" manufacturers production is way down.

Fixed wheels are better than no wheels but not much... My drum sander has an enclosed base with fixed wheels. I have managed to place it against a wall in a location that does not require turning. I pull it straight out whan I use it and push it straight back in when I'm done. I'm certain that it is lighter weight than a jointer so turning a jointer will probably be more troublesome.

I bought the top end Bora mobile base for my 500 lb. jointer/planer. Each wheel swivels vs the model with only 2 swivel wheels. It actually glides more easily than my SawStop mobile base, and I thought it was pretty easy to maneuver. The SawStop will remain in place when elevated on to the wheels. The jointer will take off towards the garage door opening, natural slant of the garage floor. I have to keep at least one of the locking feet at each wheel, 4, locked.

And 4 wheels are probably better than 3.

I've got my table saw on a one of these bases.

I really need to add 4 swiveling wheels. The only thing slowing me down is that changing the height would mean modifying my outfeed table. I mounted a channel on the back of the saw that the OFT slips into. The far end rests on my workbench, perfectly level.

It shouldn't *that* hard to fix but one thing always leads to another, so who knows. (I think the OFT issue is just an excuse)

My point was the edges need to be quite planar and smooth for gluing. Using an edge sander may get them smooth but screw up what you just did on the jointer. IOW, the jointer needs to have a pretty decent cut, all by itself.

I had an old Crapsman. I hated that too. I didn't like using the machine. It's still holding down the basement floor, getting in my way. I gotta figure out how to get rid of scrap metal around here. Our landfill/transfer station's building burned down a couple of years ago so they closed the whole deal. The alternate is about 40mi and is run by a different county. I have no idea how to use it, if we even can. Once I figure it out, my RAS will be traveling with it.

I dislike extension cords with a passion. I'm always tripping on them. My basement is unfinished so it's possible. The big problem is the sunken living room in the middle of the house. Getting wires down to the "sunk" part and back up isn't fun. A pipe, like 10/2, is going to no fun at all.

Everything has been pushed out until summer or late summer. Of course they want you to order (and pay) now. Don't think that's going to happen.

My sander has the three-point wheels. It's good enough but takes some jockeying.

I bought three of the predecessor to that base. It looks identical, except that only two of the wheels swivel. Same problem as the three-point, above. I have one on my DP, which rarely gets moved (cleaning day) and one on my router table (and the other under a bench somewhere because Woodcraft was blowing them out, cheap). I wish I'd gotten the four swivel one. I would have put it on my BS but bought the ridiculously expensive "mobility kit" instead.

This might work for me, but I'd have to add the DC port and lose the bag that I have under my saw now. Not that that would be a bad thing.

Perhaps make the lever on the back side rather than the middle? You'd be able to keep the bag.

I've also seen these on sale for about half what they want here:

I bought a few of these for work benches for $25 each, IIRC. I remember that they were really cheap (or I wouldn't have jumped on them).

How do you like the router in the extension table. I always thought it was a good idea but others say that it's always in the way. They use both tools often and it's always set up for the wrong one. Having a good fence on both would be nice too.

Well with 3 wheels the equipment is stable, no rocking on an uneven floor. If there is enough flex in the base 4 wheel works.

I have my DP, bench top sanding station, and router table on those.. With OAK the one under the DP is barely adequate. A lot of flex.

You don't know how to make a 75 point turn? LOL

My out feed is mounted solely on the TS so no issues. I can even move the saw with the out feed up and loaded.

This one is probably far superior to the one above, for about $10 more.

Understood. I previously did not edge sand edges cut on the TS for glue up. The jointer will probably be used if needed.

What about scrap metal? Can you sell it for that?

Well I would not use extension cords if I did not have to but everything being mobile and stored mostly against the walls requires that set up. Most every thing gets moved to the middle of my 3 car garage when I'm using electrical tools.

Yes BUT! the 3 wheel bases are stable on an uneven floor. ;~) I was really concerned about giving up the 3 wheel base for my Jet cabinet saw and its 50" extension when I got the SawStop with 4 wheel base and nothing under the 50"+ extension. The extension on the SS simply floats. It has legs about 1/2" from touching the floor, per SS's advice. The legs are simply to prevent tipping if you load the extension up with a lot of weight.

I was considering the 2 swivel but decided that maneuvering with 4 swivels means I can move it in any direction to park, parallel or perpendicular to a fixed wall or object.

That might work but the torque wouldn't be centered. The slide piece would be off to the side also and the imbalance might be an issue.

I'll watch the video more carefully and see if that will be a problem. It's worth a test in any case.

Something like those might help, but I think I'd still have 2 fixed wheels.

The way my TS is stored I only have access to 2 sides, the front (sort of) and the left side. My lift lever is currently on the left side which allows me to raise the left side of the TS and pull it straight out. The first 12" of movement has to be straight because the right side of the saw (the router table end) literally resides in a hole in the wall.

My shop is in a basement room that was added when an addition was added on the first floor. When I first moved in, the window was still in the original exterior wall. Basically an exterior window between 2 rooms (the shop and the rest of the basement) I took the window out and boxed in the opening, making a set of recessed shelves.

The opening, as shown below, is *just* wide enough for my TS to slide into, giving me a much needed extra foot of space in my small shop. The lift lever is right below the feather boards.

I really like it, especially considering the alternative: a portable, set-it-up-every- time-I-need-it-and-then-it's-too-frigging-high-to-be-used-safely benchtop router table. BTDT

I don't have room for a permanent floor standing router table nor a permanent benchtop unit, which is usually a POS anyway. Too small of a table, not sturdy, etc.

As shown in the image above, mine is the perfect height, as wide as the TS and deep enough for the things I need it for. It's almost 5" deeper than what you see in the image because the far end is under a narrow shelf. In addition, the original extension tables for the Craftsman 113 saws are not flat. There's a 1" border that's level with the cutting surface, but the whole center of the extension is recessed by about 3/16". With the router table, my entire surface is completely flat.

Obviously, the router table can be "in the way" if the bit is above the table or the fence is installed, but that inconvenience is minor compared to the convenience of having a decent router table available whenever needed.

The Delta fence (seen hanging on the wall) makes a Craftsman 113 saw a whole different animal compared to one with the stock fence. You would not believe how badly the sock fence was designed.

If you look *directly* above the router table end in the hole in the wall, that black object sitting on a narrow shelf is the back of the router table fence. It's an old fence from a portable router table. I added "wings" so that I can clamp it to the TS fence rails. It's obviously not perfect but it provides a dust collection port, a split sliding face and a T-track for feather boards, etc. It serves my needs.

Just a few minutes ago I used the TS to rip a narrow board and then used the still-installed beading bit to put a profile on it. Neither fence got in the way of the other, but obviously that's going to be project specific.

For any one with a small shop that struggles with finding room for both tools, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend combining them like I did.

Not so fast. It's three wheels but four pads, the worst of both worlds. The triangle under the three wheels doesn't have the same base lines so a top-heavy machine is in much worse shape. A widget will fall once it's center of gravity moves outside it's base in any direction. The square layout of the "adjustment" pads makes it rock on uneven floors. While the four-point adjustment pads can adjust, the wheels allow the tool to move so adjusting is a useless exercise in frustration.

Now put a 500# bandsaw on one. Tiimmmbeeerrrrr!

What's the point?

The room my TS is in is rather cramped (TS, BS, DP, upright cabinets, and cutting table (i.e. track saw) so I have one of these for an outfeed table:

It's on four locking swivel casters so I can move it out of the way easily. The only problem is the TS's dust collector hose has to go between its legs, so it is somewhat of a pain to move.

Woodcraft was blowing these out for $50 (I bought all three).

I'm a sucker for sales. I bought the two walnut 30"x60"x1.5" butcher blocks they were dumping for $200 each, too.

That brings up a point that I wanted to make about the Bora bases. Mine, at least, has the lift levers in the front and a flange that mounts the wheels higher (axles tend to be at the center of wheels) than the frame. These make for great trip hazards. This is another reason to off-center the lift lever in the home-grown design we were discussing.

Interesting use of space.

I know what you mean. I had a router table that went with my original "X-Acta" lift, which was an early (early) rebadged JessEm, I think. It has to be 20 years old. Anyway, it came with a chest-high table.

Agreed. I won one at as a door prize at Highland a few years ago. It was a nice one but I gave it to a friend. It might have been useful as a portable but would just take more space than it was worth. He didn't have a table, so...

Yes, I see. Did you make the table? How hard was it to mount to the saw? It can't be supported on the base, so is it just hanging there?

My father had a craftsman 60+ years ago. It had the cast iron web extension tables (double). It also had the finger-killer motor, exposed, hanging off the back. Those were the days that one was expected to know that table saws were dangerous. Bubble wrap hadn't been invented yet so mothers hadn't started wrapping kids in it from birth.

It the blade up, though I don't leave the blade up unless I'm using the saw. I'd have thought you'd use the TS fence for both.

I know what you mean. I always thought a fence grabbing in the front and back was a good idea and that the fence twisting every time it was tightened was a feature. FEnces clamping at one end wouldn't be strong enough. Then I figured out that you're not supposed to hang on the fence.

I thought you'd just get one of these:

I was considering it some time ago before we bought this house. It's still an idea because of the stability and accuracy of the saw table. My saw has 52" rails so it's not small. A router at the end wouldn't completely block the saw. I rarely (never?) use anywhere near the width of the saw anymore. I could probably ditch the table and not miss it at all. The rails would be a jewel killers though.

Yeah, everyone should be short a finger or two.

Sure, accidents never happen, so there is no point attempting to prevent them.

Not sure where. I'd do it. Foisting that junk on a would-be woodworker wouldn't be fair to woodworking.

Except for my TS, all of my tools are stored against the wall. Of course, that's where they're used too. I'm just adding a couple more

BTW, the "mobility kit" for the lathe was $500. Yes, halfa-grand! It's a little heavy to move. It is a wonder to behold though. A marvel of over-engineering.

The crappy kit for the bandsaw was $150, IIRC. It works but the rear wheels and axle are really cheezy for that kind of money.

I have a hoist fixed in one spot so after assembly everything has to move into its place. I'm alone and not about to lift these things without some serious mechanical advantage.

My house is built with "engineered" beams so won't take anything heavier than a light fixture hanging from them. I had to find somewhere that wires didn't interfere too badly and build a beam between walls at that spot to support a hoist. That spot is right behind my saw so everything moves.

BTW, I used the Sagulator to design the beam(s). .25" deflection at

Yes, but I think that one had just hit the market so they were blowing out the older ones for $50. I thought I could live with it.

Were you allowed to play in the park? I'm sure she'd be horrified if you played in the dirt. "You don't know who was there last!". <Sheesh!>

I got lucky with the TS and Delta fence. It's so tight there are grooves in the plywood side walls of that hole in the wall. The TS just fits.

Yes, I made it. It's a piece of melamine pocket-screwed to a 1 x 4 frame.

The frame is bolted to the edge of the TS and the rails of the Delta TS fence. It's well supported on 3 sides. I could probably stand on it.

I've seen the web extension tables. Mine are the stamped steel style. I still have 'em stashed in the basement. No idea why. Hoard much?

Same exposed motor. Never knew it was dangerous. Can't say that I'm pleased that you told me. :-0

I rarely leave the blade up myself. Table saw, router table and very often an extra work surface.

Don't see why I'd use the TS fence for the RT. I'd have to rig up dust collection, a split fence, T-track, etc. I've got that all in the fence I have now. I keep thinking about changing the wings to something that would actually use the rails so I could lose the clamps, but I'm in no hurry.

I used this on my old Jet cabinet saw and Now on my SawStop. For me It is perfect. I never have to put it down to move the saw, it is always on the same plane as the TS top as it is mounted directly to the saw and takes up little room when folded down.

WOW have those things gone up!!! I paid $250 the first time 22 years ago and about $300 8 years ago.

You would not have had I been in line ahead of you. ;~)