OK - 6" and 8" jointers. Lots of options. I am leaning toward the Yorkcraft
8" jointer and the Delta 22-580 13" planer.
I think this will be a fine setup for what I do.
My question is really one of what is ideal.
The purpose of a jointer is two fold, making the face of a board flat so it
can then be planed to proper thickness, secondly, straightening an edge for
a tight glue up. A planer can not straighten or flatten a board with out a
sled and some finagling.
I see a lot of posts by people that talk about ripping their boards down to
something that will fit on their jointer then planning. You rarely hear of
someone ripping a board so it fits in their planer.
Why aren't 13" or larger jointers common? I would think that ideally one
would have a jointer width that matches their planner width. Lots of big
iron, I know. Cost? Room? I know there are a couple of combo machines
(Hitachi I think) that do this.
The Yorkcraft page illustrates my point perfectly
http://www.wilkemachinery.com/Yorkcraft.tpl They advertise a 6" and 8"
jointer and a 15" and 20" planer.
Buying S4S lumber doesn't guarantee you flat and if it is flat when you buy
it its quite possible its not when you go to use it.
Shouldn't we all have matching jointer and planer widths? The wider the
Ah, here we go! http://www.olivermachinery.net/machines.asp?machineB70 its
only 1750 lbs!
Probably because 13" and larger *boards* are not common.
Disagree. IMO ideally one would have a jointer that matches the width of the
widest boards one typically handles, and a planer that matches the width of
the widest panels one typically glues up. Since most of us have limited space,
and limited budgets, we must compromise; for me, the compromise turns out to
be a 6" jointer and a 13" planer.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
In Europe jointer/planer combination machines are common, they have
one cutterhead, used from the top for jointing and from below (with a
table of adjustable height) for thickness planning. They are very
handy in a small workshop.
Hardwoods are normally harvested at about 14-16" size in the US, because
they aren't laying down as much wood as they used to, generally have picked
up enough damage up top to let in various fungi and such to start hollowing
the heart and weakening the tree. They're like old men, full of
They are then sawed for grade, which is a different criterion - greater bf
of clear stock - than through-and-through, which, due to grading standards,
would have more lower-grade boards.
If you have a local sawyer, you can go for width/thicknesses you want, and
cut either side of knots. I had a lot of 5/4 maple done to fit quarto and
octavo size books, and those knots at the back of the shelf bother no one.
Actually, as trees get older they put down wood at a faster rate,
especially once they break through the canopy. According to the NFS
the giant Sequoias are among the fastest growing organisms on Earth,
the largest can add a ton of wood per year, even though their trunks
only increase in diameter (radial growth) by a tiny fraction of
an inch per year.
They aren't necessarily putting it down where it'll make good lumber
though, the wood in the crown is all reaction wood.
Here are two good articles that illustrate the situation:
Of course sequoias are softwoods and hardwoods are different from
softwoods but ht ebasic idea that they grow in proportion to the
energy and CO2 that they absorb, which in turn are both proportionate
to foliage, is the same.
(the one below is in Adobe pdf format)
Yes, a lot of large fast growing trees are rotting away at the core
faster than they're growing. The result is a big tree with no useful
I'm sure also that timing depends a lot on considerations of making
room for the next generation of trees if you want sustainable
Note that to make a wider planer, all one has to do is make the
cutterhead wider - not a very complicated or expensive thing to
do. To make a jointer wider, you have to make the tables wider
too - which makes them heavier, which means you've got to make
all the supporting structure heavier and stronger too. Hence
the very rapid increase in cost as jointers get bigger.
I will say that having an 8" as compared to a 6" jointer is
a very worthwhile thing. I see enough clean boards in the
7-8" range to be annoyed at having to trim an inch or so off
them, but it's pretty rare to see a board over 8" that doesn't
have some flaw that required ripping it narrower.
You may also add the Grizzly G0586 to your possibilities. A bit more
(shipping...not sure what the Yorkcraft ships for) but it seems to have some
nice features (handwheels!, 4 cutters, etc...) for the price:
I'm trying to justify how I can buy this thing given I already have a 6"
jointer. I got
the Sunhill 6" version about a year or so ago. Been happy with it but an
8" would be better!
Ahh no worries. I know the passion can really come out when we get into a
discussion regarding politics, beauracracy, etc.....
Seriously though, it looks like this jointer could be a pretty good deal
given it's features and Grizzly is pretty well known for their exceptional
service. I've got their G0555 bandsaw and 1023SL tablesaw and am happy with
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