Can anyone comment on the performance/quality of Grizzly's 8" jointers. I'm considering the 0500 or 0586, both are under $700 and appear to be a great deal. However, this would be my first experience with a jointer and I'm unclear just how much I can accomplish with this machine.
For instance, can this also serve a planer? I know that if you have any type of cup in the lumber, this would be a better option for flattening than a planer.
But taking it a step further, can you flip the board and run it through again to achieve the desired thickness? ... as you would in a planer.
And finally, how would it run being wired at 110V?
I guess I'm trying to figure out how far this machine will take me without having to make an additional purchase in a planer.
Half way...as you note, the function of the jointer is to create a straight edge or flat surface prior to planing to thickness.
The problem is that after achieving the first flat surface, you then have no way to register the work to make the second surface flat while remaining parallel to the first--that's the function of the planer which has knives on the opposite surface from that which is the reference on--just the opposite as the jointer.
Grizzly gets good reviews here in general although I've never used (or even seen one) myself...
A jointer works best in conjunction with a planer. With just a jointer, you can flatten the one side, then flip it over and flatten the other, but there's no guarantee that the faces will now be parallel to each other. That's where the planer comes in...you flatten one side on the jointer, then run it through the planer to make it both flat _and_ parallel to the other side.
As to the question about the Grizzly quality, I have no experience, but would love to hear the other responses.
Not really, although it may be close enough for you that it doesn't matter depending on what you're making and how careful you are selecting rough stock.
You could flatten both sides with a jointer, and they would be flat. The problem is that the two sides may not be parallel. You may end up with something slightly wedge-shaped.
It depends on the size of the motor. Most smaller induction motors can be wired either way. The problem here is that 110 requires more current than 220, requiring fatter wire. As motors get above around
1.5 or 2hp, the wire thickness and currents drawn get ridiculous. There's also less of a problem from voltage drop over the length of the wire with 220. If the motor comes wired for 220, usually you can remove a plate on the motor and move some wires around, change the switch, change the plug, and plug it in. If the motor draws more than
20 amps at 110, you'll have a hard time making it work, since 110 outlets are rated for either 15 or 20 amps. I'm not sure how you can follow code and make it work. I run my 1.5hp contractor table saw on a
20amp 110 line and it works just fine.
If you want to temporarily cheap out, a bench topplaner is not a bad choice. Most of them are fairly good. Just be sure to get the dust collection hood and use it.
Most benchtop jointers on the other hand are probably not worth the trouble. I had a delta that was so-so. It probably would have been ok for jointing boards 3' and shorter, but not much more. I tried to joint longer boards and had trouble with it.
You could also buy the planer instead of a jointer and just buy s2s lumber until you can afford the jointer.
I bought a Grizzly 0500 about four months ago and truly enjoy finally getting a good edge on a board to edge glue up smaller boards into large width ones. If you are going to have to edge glue boards or if you want boards that are wider then 8-12" then you will like a joiner. I run mine on 220v so I'm not sure what the load would be on 110v. It does have a lot of torque when you turn it on so the lights may dim on 110v. If I had to do it all over again I would buy the same unit again. I thought I could avoid a planner if I stayed with lumber from Lowe's for the next few months also and tried flipping the board over to reduce the thickness and quickly learned not all lumber you purchase has the same thickness throughout the board. I had a 3/4" board that was 3/4" on one edge and the other edge was about 5/8" thick. The joiner just cut a perfect surface on each side but did nothing to straight out the thickness problem. If your wood is the same thickness then you maybe able to avoid a planner for a few months but I bought one the next day after seeing wood is sometimes not the same thickness. They both work together to give you a board that's ready to build with.
You can read a review of 8" jointers in the latest Fine Woodworking. Their findings boil down to a whole-lotta-no-big-difference among most of the under-$2,000 machines.
Running a 2 HP jointer on 110V isn't a great idea. If you're thinking of plugging it into a an existing 15A shared circuit, forget it. You really would need a dedicated 30A, 110V circuit, and if you're going to add wiring, it makes more sense to go to 220V. Also, the G0586 comes ith a 220V magnetic starter. You'd need to buy a 110V starter (at least $70) to even try it.
If wiring and budget are insurmountable constraints, you'd be better served by getting both a 6" jointer and a 12" planer for about the same outlay.
You really want to take a woodworking course to learn what the tools are for before buying any.
I have a used 6", and while an 8" would be nicer occasionally, I can't say it is holding me back. I would love the 12" they had in my WW course; and maybe the 28" sander, and...
I have to agree with Toller. Take some lessons, figure out what you want to make and what tools you really need. If you're a newbie you might be better off spending the same amount of money on a 6 inch jointer and a thickness planer rather than the 8 inch jointer.
I have the G500 and I love it. I wouldn't even think about rewiring it for 110V. As someone else pointed out, you'd have to replace the magnetic starter with a 110 volt unit and then contend with the voltage drop with the high current load, especially when you're running 8 inches of hard maple through it, etc... Don't do it. TWS
FWIW, the latest edition of Popular Woodworking generally "likes" Grizzly tools and states why they're able to product quality tools at low cost -- they avoid the "middle man" as they put it. I'm not sure how much of a factor a distributor is, but I'm sure it has something to do with it. I personally have no experience with Grizzly tools but am ever curious has to their quality.
If only they had some local showrooms...
Does anyone know if they exhibit at woodworking shows? I plan to attend one this December in Fort Washington, PA.
I just bought a Grizzly 0500 model, I love it. I ordered it on a Sunday night, by Tuesday morning the trucking company was calling me asking when they could drop it off. I've ordered from Grizzly over the years and have always had great results. The jointer does great work and I'd highly recommend it. I'd have to echo the comments about running it off 220 vice 110V. (I don't think the 586 will rewire for 110) I'm military and live in base housing. My garage is my temporary workshop until I retire next year, so I plug it in to the dryer outlet. Not the most convenient set up but it works fine for now. I called Grizzly about the difference between the 0500 and the 0586 units since the prices are quite different. Their tech guy told me they are very similar except that the 0500 is made in Taiwan and the 0586 is made in Communist China. I chose the free world over subsidising the "other superpower". He said quality control is better in Taiwan than Mainland China....FWIW.
It's an "easy" drive. Take the Northeast extension to Rt 80, 80 to
180, then take the Lycoming mall exit. Decent sized mall with alot of other stores thrown in so bring the family. You're only about 15 minutes away from Williamsport and "The Home of Little League World Series" too. With all that said, the Grizzly showroom is well worth the drive!
Yes, it is Muncy. You should be punishhed for spellyng bad. :-)
I'll ditto Lee on the fact that visiting the store is very much worth the time and drive; I'm in central NJ and can do the drive in less than
3 hours. Besides, not far away in Picture Rocks there is Lewis Lumber, a sawmill and milling operation that is primarily wholesale, but has a very nice retail operation with a pretty good selection, nice people as well. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer.
I live close to Philly and really enjoy to spend my time in Muncy show room. Next time I will drop by in Lewis Lumber. I did try the given URL, but it failed. The shorter form
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work for me. My other local favorite lumber source is Hearne Hardwoods Inc at
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Ollie
PS. I have the G0543 8x75 jointer with spiral head and have been very pleased for the surface it is producing.
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