Can anyone comment on the performance/quality of Grizzly's 8" jointers. I'm
considering the 0500 or 0586, both are under $700 and appear to be a great
deal. However, this would be my first experience with a jointer and I'm
unclear just how much I can accomplish with this machine.
For instance, can this also serve a planer? I know that if you have any
type of cup in the lumber, this would be a better option for flattening than
But taking it a step further, can you flip the board and run it through
again to achieve the desired thickness? ... as you would in a planer.
And finally, how would it run being wired at 110V?
I guess I'm trying to figure out how far this machine will take me without
having to make an additional purchase in a planer.
Any advice would be helpful.
Half way...as you note, the function of the jointer is to create a
straight edge or flat surface prior to planing to thickness.
The problem is that after achieving the first flat surface, you then
have no way to register the work to make the second surface flat while
remaining parallel to the first--that's the function of the planer which
has knives on the opposite surface from that which is the reference
on--just the opposite as the jointer.
Grizzly gets good reviews here in general although I've never used (or
even seen one) myself...
A jointer works best in conjunction with a planer. With just a
jointer, you can flatten the one side, then flip it over and flatten
the other, but there's no guarantee that the faces will now be parallel
to each other. That's where the planer comes in...you flatten one side
on the jointer, then run it through the planer to make it both flat
_and_ parallel to the other side.
As to the question about the Grizzly quality, I have no experience, but
would love to hear the other responses.
Not really, although it may be close enough for you that it doesn't
matter depending on what you're making and how careful you are
selecting rough stock.
You could flatten both sides with a jointer, and they would be flat.
The problem is that the two sides may not be parallel. You may end up
with something slightly wedge-shaped.
It depends on the size of the motor. Most smaller induction motors can
be wired either way. The problem here is that 110 requires more
current than 220, requiring fatter wire. As motors get above around
1.5 or 2hp, the wire thickness and currents drawn get ridiculous.
There's also less of a problem from voltage drop over the length of the
wire with 220. If the motor comes wired for 220, usually you can
remove a plate on the motor and move some wires around, change the
switch, change the plug, and plug it in. If the motor draws more than
20 amps at 110, you'll have a hard time making it work, since 110
outlets are rated for either 15 or 20 amps. I'm not sure how you can
follow code and make it work. I run my 1.5hp contractor table saw on a
20amp 110 line and it works just fine.
If you want to temporarily cheap out, a bench topplaner is not a bad
choice. Most of them are fairly good. Just be sure to get the dust
collection hood and use it.
Most benchtop jointers on the other hand are probably not worth the
trouble. I had a delta that was so-so. It probably would have been ok
for jointing boards 3' and shorter, but not much more. I tried to
joint longer boards and had trouble with it.
You could also buy the planer instead of a jointer and just buy s2s
lumber until you can afford the jointer.
I bought a Grizzly 0500 about four months ago and truly enjoy finally getting a
good edge on a board to edge glue up smaller boards into large width ones. If
you are going to have to edge glue boards or if you want boards that are wider
then 8-12" then you will like a joiner. I run mine on 220v so I'm not sure what
the load would be on 110v. It does have a lot of torque when you turn it on so
the lights may dim on 110v. If I had to do it all over again I would buy the
same unit again.
I thought I could avoid a planner if I stayed with lumber from Lowe's for the
next few months also and tried flipping the board over to reduce the thickness
and quickly learned not all lumber you purchase has the same thickness
throughout the board. I had a 3/4" board that was 3/4" on one edge and the other
edge was about 5/8" thick. The joiner just cut a perfect surface on each side
but did nothing to straight out the thickness problem. If your wood is the same
thickness then you maybe able to avoid a planner for a few months but I bought
one the next day after seeing wood is sometimes not the same thickness. They
both work together to give you a board that's ready to build with.
You can read a review of 8" jointers in the latest Fine Woodworking.
Their findings boil down to a whole-lotta-no-big-difference among most
of the under-$2,000 machines.
Running a 2 HP jointer on 110V isn't a great idea. If you're thinking
of plugging it into a an existing 15A shared circuit, forget it. You
really would need a dedicated 30A, 110V circuit, and if you're going to
add wiring, it makes more sense to go to 220V. Also, the G0586 comes
ith a 220V magnetic starter. You'd need to buy a 110V starter (at least
$70) to even try it.
If wiring and budget are insurmountable constraints, you'd be better
served by getting both a 6" jointer and a 12" planer for about the same
You really want to take a woodworking course to learn what the tools are for
before buying any.
I have a used 6", and while an 8" would be nicer occasionally, I can't say
it is holding me back. I would love the 12" they had in my WW course; and
maybe the 28" sander, and...
I have to agree with Toller. Take some lessons, figure out what you
want to make and what tools you really need. If you're a newbie you
might be better off spending the same amount of money on a 6 inch
jointer and a thickness planer rather than the 8 inch jointer.
I have the G500 and I love it. I wouldn't even think about rewiring
it for 110V. As someone else pointed out, you'd have to replace the
magnetic starter with a 110 volt unit and then contend with the
voltage drop with the high current load, especially when you're
running 8 inches of hard maple through it, etc... Don't do it.
FWIW, the latest edition of Popular Woodworking generally "likes" Grizzly
tools and states why they're able to product quality tools at low cost --
they avoid the "middle man" as they put it. I'm not sure how much of a
factor a distributor is, but I'm sure it has something to do with it. I
personally have no experience with Grizzly tools but am ever curious has to
If only they had some local showrooms...
Does anyone know if they exhibit at woodworking shows? I plan to attend one
this December in Fort Washington, PA.
I screwed up. It is spelled Muncy.
According to Mapquest, they are located approximately 171 miles from one
another and you can drive it in about three hours.
The other two showrooms are located in Washington and Missouri.
It's an "easy" drive. Take the Northeast extension to Rt 80, 80 to
180, then take the Lycoming mall exit. Decent sized mall with alot of
other stores thrown in so bring the family. You're only about 15
minutes away from Williamsport and "The Home of Little League World
Series" too. With all that said, the Grizzly showroom is well worth
Yes, it is Muncy. You should be punishhed for spellyng bad. :-)
I'll ditto Lee on the fact that visiting the store is very much worth
the time and drive; I'm in central NJ and can do the drive in less than
3 hours. Besides, not far away in Picture Rocks there is Lewis Lumber,
a sawmill and milling operation that is primarily wholesale, but has a
very nice retail operation with a pretty good selection, nice people as
well. No affiliation, just a satisfied customer.
I live close to Philly and really enjoy to spend my time in Muncy show room.
Next time I will drop by in Lewis Lumber. I did try the given URL, but it
failed. The shorter form
did work for me. My other local favorite lumber source is Hearne Hardwoods
PS. I have the G0543 8x75 jointer with spiral head and have been very
pleased for the surface it is producing.
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