I need to buy a jointer, and haven't had much luck finding a used one.
So, I've been looking at the budget 6" jointers by Ridgid and Grizzly, in
the sub $600 range. Grizzly's new G0813/814 jointers aren't in stock yet,
and the shipping costs would make it more expensive. I could have the
Ridgid shipped to my local store for free, making it a bit cheaper.
Price aside, which would be the better jointer? Are there other brands in
that price range I should consider?
I don't have the space or the money for a larger 8" jointer.
I would say get as large as you can afford or have room for. I would
look for which might have longer beds. I had a short 6" jointer for
years. Mostly used it to tie the dog leash to. Several years ago I got
rid of it. It simply was too small. I would love to have a long bed
jointer but I have managed with out and I never buy rough cut lumber any
more. I use my track saw to straighten s2s when I buy that.
If you intend to use it a lot, one with the replaceable carbide cutters
might be a consideration. AND some joiners are now offering the throw
away replaceable blades similar to what is on the lunch box planers.
Use them, flip them and use again and then replace. I think those use
the Tersa knives. These are less expensive than the carbide
replacements but relatively easy to replace properly.
I like the look of the newer Grizzly jointer, compared to the old one
with the controls up on a post. That just looks like an obstruction that
serves no other function than to place the controls up higher.
I have a G0555 Grizzly bandsaw that I've had a lot of trouble getting
aligned properly. Eventually had to drill out the riser holes to get the
adjustment I needed. So, that experience has left me a little leary of
Grizzly tools. Not enough to completely rule them out, but definitely
more cautious of the brand.
Many people recommend getting an 8" jointer, but I really don't see
myself needing that. I very rarely use boards larger than 6", unless I
have glued up panels or something. A 6" jointer should be more than
adequate for my needs.
The last few years I've started milling my own lumber. At first I was
just recycling old beams into new boards, but lately I've started sawing
trees into lumber and air-drying them. In every case, the boards are less
than 6" wide.
Until now, I've used a crude sled with my planer to flatten boards, but
it's a fairly tedious process.
I have a Delta with the controls on a post. It's nice, but like you said
it gets in the way if you needed to bevel away from the cutter.
Generally you try to tilt the fence toward the cutter. But there was a
time that the grain would not allow me to flip it, so I needed to remove
Had the same problem with an American made Delta..
That's mostly when you'll need the width. Right now I have about 70
board feet of 4/4 tiger maple mostly wider than 6"
and I have some 8/4 and 10/4 tiger maple that is 12 or more inches wide.
(leg stock). I will use the jointer to rough a bit, and wind up doing
the rest by hand. Wish I had 8", and wish I had carbide spiral cutter.
I think the tear out would be minimized.
Yes it is. But so is hand planning some type of wood. Others absolutely
You get about zero tear out with spiral cutter head, but that is only
one of the advantages. Others are: no setup (always level knives).
Stay sharp 4 times longer (4 edges instead of one) Small chips (don't
clog dust collector pipes, quiet as a mouse (you can plane wide tiger
maple in your basement, late at night, in your underwear, and not wake
the neighbors. I would not buy a planer or jointer without the spiral,
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
The big advantage of a 8" jointer is a longer bed. Everything
else being equal, the longer the bed the better results you get.
I will note, as I have a 6" jointer, that there seem to be an
amazing number of 6.5" wide boards in the world.
Hmmmm....I was going to suggest looking at Rikon but it appears they no
longer build the 20-110 and only have a little benchtop model now...
I "know nuthink!" of the Ridgid stuff (which, of course, is off-shore,
TTI which is owned by the parent also of Ryobi) so there's really
nothing of them related to the Ridgid pipe wrench outfit other than they
licensed the name.
Grizzly does have a good reputation amongst the importers for standing
behind their stuff's...
As others said, first really analyze what it is you think you'll be
doing with it and buy accordingly, rather than to fit something into a
niche corner in the shop.
This thread prompted me to go visit the Grizzly G490 8" jointer online.
Discontinued? Replaced with G490W. From a brief comparison of the
G490 is rated 15Amp, G490W 12 Amps.
Cutterhead spead: G490 4800 RPM, G490W 5350 RPM, so
Cuts per minute 19200, verus 21400.
Table length has grown by 3/8" from 76 3/8" (long).
At first I though the W was for "White", but they appear to be the
I'm not sure what the W stands for?
Fence is identical size.
The shipping weight is listed as identical (562 pounds), but they may
thoroughly updated the web site.
There was a small price increase ($30)
Table thickness is now 2 7/8" instead of 1 1/2" --ahh, there's the 'W'.
Table height (from ground) is now 3/8" lower.
Clearly this one has been on my radar screen for a while. It's still
unclear whether this will be the year...
Anyway, care to know which jointer *I* would choose? : ) I'm curious
whether Powermatic or Jet can even "compete" with a 2 7/8" table
thickness? Interesting that this spec. feature doesn't even make it
into their product description, but it's on the "specification sheet".
And some of you may already know how I am about cast iron... :: wiping
the saliva from my lips :: ; )
I strongly doubt it's discernible to the end user...my guess would be
it's simply a production change, nothing more (or less, either, for that
That the overall weight didn't change noticeably means there's certainly
not more actually material mass; possibly they did get a little more
stiffness by slightly increasing depth dimension at the expense of
number or thickness of ribbing keeping overall material at essentially
the same weight. The advent of FEA is a great boon to let designers
optimize such things as resonances, stiffness, etc., etc., with minimum
weight. Computer time is quite cheap and models are able to be
extremely accurate any more. Don't know Grizz goes to such efforts but
wouldn't surprise me.
I'm not sure table thickness guarantees quality of results. It could be
hollow under the edge, like the back side of it's fence and like many TS
BUT it looks decent. It certainly seems to be right for flattening 8"
material to to a certain length. ;~)
Can you be entirely certain they aren't the same machines painted
differently and put on different stands?
Sometimes you can tell by looking up parts.
If not, I'd go for longest beds as others suggested.
Also, most powerful motor.
Best dust collection.
Ease of adjustability AND set-up-- not setting it up from out of the
box. Setting up everything to get perfect results: bed coplaner, knives
perfectly flat to beds, etc.
How easy is it to change knives?
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
from what i have read here and elsewhere it seems that most stuff is
made by the same processes and techniques in different places in
so i really wonder how much difference there is grizzly vs rigid
i know you rulled out buying used due to availability but i would look
harder for something used for several reasons
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.