How To Chamfer Cabinet Door Frame?

Hey MIKE and Leon...
Looked at the links with keen interest. It is my imagination, or are route r bids less expensive or at least holding their prices?
I had a couple of projects to do about 10 years ago where I edged all the t rim by hand for a client. It wasn't a ton (500' or so) and I didn't want t o buy Amana, CMT or others because of the price, so I went with MLCS since they told me that if I didn't like them I could return them. I liked the bi ts and put a couple of my contractor buddies on to them and they used their door sets with great success.
Best for them was the fact that they were literally 30-40% less than the bi g guys. Now MLCS is cheaper than I remember, and likewise the bits on the links you posted.
Is it my imagination? Are production methods to the point where these guys can hold the line on pricing?
Robert
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On 1/23/18 6:06 PM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

It probably all has to do with China. The quality bit makers have to compete with the MLCS types and the MLCS types can keep going to China for cheap manufacturing. Perhaps the high end guys are going there, now, to compete.
China doesn't have to raise their manufacturing costs to keep up with inflation because they are communist and also have zero environmental concerns. They will keep making stuff as cheap as possible despite the working conditions and pay of their workers, because we are their cash-cow, AND we have so much debt in their coffers that we'll never rock the boat.
I'll stop there at the risk of getting into a political debate. Suffice to say, the current administration is the only one in decades with the balls to get us back into some fair trade arrangements with China. Unfortunately, we have a couple generations who have been raised on WalMart prices for most all home goods and it'll be hard to get people to pay more for stuff made with slave labor and no regulations.
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Funny you should ask. I think they are getting cheaper. I bought 3 carbide top bearing flush cut 1/2" diameter bits. 1/4" shank and 1/2", 3/4", and 1" Long. Amazon Prime delivered in 2 days, $13.88.
I just needed the 3/4" Long one but for that price the more the merrier. And I expected to total the bit.
Today I plunge cut 25, 36" Long runs about 9/16" deep into 1/2" birch multiply plywood. The bit was always cutting on its right, left, and leading edge. I was hogging out a ton of material. The bit still feels sharp. I used my small Makita trim router.
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On 1/23/18 11:59 PM, Leon wrote:

Makita!? That's not green. :-p
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Yes it is.
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Kind of a dark dirty green. :-)
But I wish I had been using a Festool router. I could have filled a 5 gallon bucket with sawdust from this run. IIRC the Festool routers also have great dust control.
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On 1/24/18 12:14 AM, Leon wrote:

Guess I blew that joke. :-( Hey man, all you need is a broom and a dust pan. :-p
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:-)
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Yes, they do.
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On Wednesday, January 24, 2018 at 1:14:26 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

I was searching the web to see if anybody had a DC adapter for my PC690 router. Back in 2010, somebody was asking about the same thing in a DIY forum. He needed to about 50 dados and said that he didn't have a table saw.
I chuckled at this response:
"I don't believe there is an aftermarket port for (the 690) router to do off- edge routing. Festool makes a router with a built in dust collection port.
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/574267 (bad link)
At this list price, you could get a decent table saw."
;-)
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On 1/24/2018 9:07 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Yeah but try hauling a dado into someones house to cut 50 dados. ;~)
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What I did.
https://flic.kr/p/23JEipc
https://flic.kr/p/22DUfNU
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On Wednesday, January 24, 2018 at 12:59:10 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

What brand? More specifically, what are your thoughts on Whiteside bits?

For that much work, why didn't you go with a full size router? Lack of support?
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Not sure of the brand, nothing on the bits and all 3 were different colors. I can look the order up if you are interested. FWIW I wad not looking for name brand as mist ant brand was gong to be toast after this job, or so I thought. I have legs go cot out.

This router spinning a small 1/2 diameter bit is plenty. And if you saw the link to what I was cutting it has 1.5" wide results. A larger router would have tipped too easily.
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Ah Whiteside. Good brand but I typically buy less expensive unless I am buying lager bits.

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On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 6:39:59 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

I need to think about that whole process. To route after the door is assembled might be possible, based on bit length, cut depth, etc. If that can't be done, because the panel is in the way, then I'll need to build an adjustable holding jig to hold the frame for routing, then insert the panel before gluing.
Certainly doable.
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On 1/23/18 6:25 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a

Now look at the profile pictures below the big picture of the bit set.

You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles through the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer. You would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.
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On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:

Do you mean like the right vs. the left? ;-)
https://i.imgur.com/Nkc9wKz.jpg
Based on the depth that SWMBO wants the chamfer, it's definitely noticeable until filled, especially if the chamfer is done for the entire length of the stile like a TS would produce.
However, a stopped chamfer on the router table would require a lot less Durham's to fill the much smaller gap. Shaping the inside corner would be fairly simple, even if there are 120+ of them to do.
After all, these are going to painted.
(Yes, I know it's cheating. Isn't it?)
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On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:37:13 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
...snip...

I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on the stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot" with Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still need to do a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.
They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail, but so be it.
https://i.imgur.com/y9jFZCJ.jpg
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On 2/1/18 9:57 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Looks great.
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