How To Chamfer Cabinet Door Frame?

[-MIKE-]

It probably all has to do with China. The quality bit makers have to compete with the MLCS types and the MLCS types can keep going to China for cheap manufacturing. Perhaps the high end guys are going there, now, to compete.

China doesn't have to raise their manufacturing costs to keep up with inflation because they are communist and also have zero environmental concerns. They will keep making stuff as cheap as possible despite the working conditions and pay of their workers, because we are their cash-cow, AND we have so much debt in their coffers that we'll never rock the boat.

I'll stop there at the risk of getting into a political debate. Suffice to say, the current administration is the only one in decades with the balls to get us back into some fair trade arrangements with China. Unfortunately, we have a couple generations who have been raised on WalMart prices for most all home goods and it'll be hard to get people to pay more for stuff made with slave labor and no regulations.

[DerbyDad03]

I need to think about that whole process. To route after the door is assembled might be possible, based on bit length, cut depth, etc. If that can't be done, because the panel is in the way, then I'll need to build an adjustable holding jig to hold the frame for routing, then insert the panel before gluing.

Certainly doable.

[-MIKE-]

Does the chamfer extend all the way to the ends of the stiles with a

Now look at the profile pictures below the big picture of the bit set.

You could use any number of those bits and then run the stiles through the table saw at 45degress to get your chamfer. You would end up with a tiny little hollow triangle at the joint, but you may not notice it, or you could fill it with putty.

[DerbyDad03]

Do you mean like the right vs. the left? ;-)

Based on the depth that SWMBO wants the chamfer, it's definitely noticeable until filled, especially if the chamfer is done for the entire length of the stile like a TS would produce.

However, a stopped chamfer on the router table would require a lot less Durham's to fill the much smaller gap. Shaping the inside corner would be fairly simple, even if there are 120+ of them to do.

After all, these are going to painted.

(Yes, I know it's cheating. Isn't it?)

[Leon]

Funny you should ask. I think they are getting cheaper. I bought 3 carbide top bearing flush cut 1/2" diameter bits. 1/4" shank and 1/2",

3/4", and 1" Long. Amazon Prime delivered in 2 days, $13.88.

I just needed the 3/4" Long one but for that price the more the merrier. And I expected to total the bit.

Today I plunge cut 25, 36" Long runs about 9/16" deep into 1/2" birch multiply plywood. The bit was always cutting on its right, left, and leading edge. I was hogging out a ton of material. The bit still feels sharp. I used my small Makita trim router.

[-MIKE-]

Makita!? That's not green. :-p

[Leon]

Yes it is.

[Leon]

What I did.

[Leon]

Kind of a dark dirty green. :-)

But I wish I had been using a Festool router. I could have filled a 5 gallon bucket with sawdust from this run. IIRC the Festool routers also have great dust control.

[-MIKE-]

Guess I blew that joke. :-( Hey man, all you need is a broom and a dust pan. :-p

[DerbyDad03]

What brand? More specifically, what are your thoughts on Whiteside bits?

For that much work, why didn't you go with a full size router? Lack of support?

[Leon]

Not sure of the brand, nothing on the bits and all 3 were different colors. I can look the order up if you are interested. FWIW I wad not looking for name brand as mist ant brand was gong to be toast after this job, or so I thought. I have legs go cot out.

This router spinning a small 1/2 diameter bit is plenty. And if you saw the link to what I was cutting it has 1.5" wide results. A larger router would have tipped too easily.

[Leon]

:-)

[Leon]

Ah Whiteside. Good brand but I typically buy less expensive unless I am buying lager bits.

[krw]

Yes, they do.

[DerbyDad03]

I was searching the web to see if anybody had a DC adapter for my PC690 router. Back in 2010, somebody was asking about the same thing in a DIY forum. He needed to about 50 dados and said that he didn't have a table saw.

I chuckled at this response:

"I don't believe there is an aftermarket port for (the 690) router to do off- edge routing. Festool makes a router with a built in dust collection port.

(bad link)

At this list price, you could get a decent table saw."

;-)

[dadiOH]

Thanks for that. A few issues/questions.

Issue: The angle is 22? while I was looking for 45? so I don't know how that will work for me. I'd hate to drop $130 for something that we don't like. Obviously I will looking at the return policy from where ever I buy.

IMO, you have about a zero chance at finding what you want. The only rail/stile bits I have ever seen are either "shaker" (lesser angle) or "bevel" (greater angle). If you'll look at this link, it lists/shows the normal profiles.

It also hints at the fact that one need not spend $130 if one is willing to modify one's desires. If not, one should plan on using a saw to achieve the desired. :)

Question: When you look at that bit do you think that washers could be placed between the angled cutter and the groove cutter? The goal is *not* to have the chamfer go all the way down to the slot. See the bottom profile here, which I sent to Infinity tools to see what they had:

Yes, they are adjustable.

.

[Leon]

Yeah but try hauling a dado into someones house to cut 50 dados. ;~)

[DerbyDad03]

...snip...

I ran a full length chamfer on the rails and a stopped chamfer on the stiles. After I assembled the doors, I filled the "over shoot" with Durham's RockHard, then chiseled the chamfer square. I still need to do a little cleanup, but they are coming out pretty good.

They are going to be painted, so I'm going to lose some detail, but so be it.

[-MIKE-]

Looks great.