A DIYer friend want to learn to make solid wood "stuff" (as opposed to face framed ply "stuff), having already made some Ply and 2x4 "stuff" using DF studs and construction grade ply - and a cricular saw, a bench top table saw - nails and construction adhesive.
Oh - did I mention the first project is an 8' tall linen cabinet - with four doors? AND the goal is to get it ALL done - over a three day weekend?
Where the hell do you start?
Do you go all the way back to stock prep - how to get Four Square stock to make your parts from?
or
The joinery - what to use when - and how to make the joints?
or
Parts marking so you can keep track of what goes where - and which is the Good Face.
or
Basic design and proportions?
And how do you prepare a person who's thinking in terms of "recycled" 2x4s and floor framed wall sheathing ply - but wants a cherry, furniture grade look for the finished project - for what it'll cost in time and money (even a board foot of poplar is "expensive" comkpared to free 2x4 studs and scrap ply)?
Would it have been better to work out all the details
- on paper first - then put together a Cut List from which a Price Tag for materials - and a Time Estimate can be ball parked - THEN decide if the piece should be actually made - or get a bunch of wood and start making the piece, adapting/modifying the original idea as things progress?
I've been through something like this before with my youngest son. His "simple" coffee table turned out to be a 3" thick torsion box of very expensive walnut ply ($175 a sheet), framed in even more expensive Peruvian walnut to hide the ends of the walnut ply - which was "layed up board" ply, not rotary peeled ply.
Mentoring an absolute novice sure can be "interesting".
Got any suggestions?
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Here's The LONG Version
A friend who enjoys DIY projects wants to replace an IKEA type linen cabinet. She knows basic stick framing, and thinks of kitchen and bath cabinet making in terms of 2x4s and plywood - preferably "recycled" (read FREE) - and nails, with or without construction adhesive - parts cut to length with a skilsaw and ripped to width with a table top small table saw.
She wants to build a frame and panel floor to ceiling linen cabinet, with raised panel doors to fit in a corner of a room
- with a door on either side of the corner - 32" and 21" from the corner, respectively. And she's thinking in terms of using the walls of the corner as a side and back of this cabinet
+---------------------++-+ doorway | | | | | | ++============++ | \ / + \ / d o o rNow I'm thinking 2 1/2" wide x 3/4" thick rail and stile frame with simple 1/4 ply panels in 1/4 grooves in the rails and stile - and she's thinking raised panels - ply panel with solid wood "applique" (read" glued to the face of the ply panels) raised panels. And stain everything to look like - wait for it - cherry, then three or four coats of varnish for a glossy look).
You can stain poplar boards and birch ply to look like cherry. So I send her of to get some poplar - for the rails and stiles as well as the "raised panels" and some 1/4" birch ply for the "panel" backing. So (4) 1x6 x 8' for the front frame, side and doors' rails and stiles (3) 1x8 x 8' for the "raised panels" of the side and doors (1) 1/4" 4x8 ply sheet for the "panel" background and she adds 2 1x10 x 8' - "for the side panels
So she gets 32 BF of poplar and a sheet of
1/4" - wait for it - prefinished - OAK (cause I think I like the contrasting look) - and a dose of Sticker Shock - about $150 in wood. She was thinking in terms of "Under Fifty Bucks" - for the whole linen cabinet, including the hinges - for four doors, two of which are 5' tall.To keep it simple, the "rails and stiles" were ripped to width and the "groove" for the ply panels were done with the table saw.
Fortunately, I've got a DOMINO for the loose tenon mortise and tenon joints that'll hold everything together pretty well. Even an absolute novice can do loose tenon M&Ts with the DOMINIO (after I set it up and demonstrate each type of operation),
And a miter saw, with infeed and outfeed tables and flip up stops, get all the parts that are supposed to be the same length to actually be the same length - WITH square corners,
So far the only mistake has been in cutting all the "stiles" to length. My miter saw infeed table can only use a flip stop 5'6" from the blade - and we need 95" (leaving an inch of shimming space in case the floor/walls/ceiling aren't square and flat).
Only AFTER cutting all the parts and doing the loose tenon mortise and tenon joints was the "these stiles ARE NOT all the same length" problem discovered.
So far I haven't raised the question of "how are you going to support the shelves inside this thing when two of it's walls - will be sheet rocked walls. And about those shelves, we're gonna need some more ply - AND wood.
Fun this woodworking thing.