I'm in a bit of a pickle. I've had my base cabinets (or at least the
carcases) for the new kitchen finished and installed for a few months.
However, I haven't gotten around to milling the rail and stile stock for the
doors and drawer fronts. The new garshop isn't quite complete, so I don't
really have any place to mill it. The missus, who has been pretty patient
through this process, would like something done by Christmas. I know that I
could buy the doors and drawer fronts complete, but I'm wondering if I could
take just one step back and buy the rail and stile stock already made. If I
had that, I could get enough going here to cut it to the required lengths.
The local lumber place could cut my plywood panels to size, and I could do
the glue-ups and finishing. It's just that I'm not set up now to joint,
thickness plane, etc.
This might be a longshot, since a Google search didn't turn up anything, but
does anyone know any place that sells rail and stile stock?
It's likely that the only solution for you is to find a friend or a
professional who will cut to order. The problem is having the proper width
of rail and stile stock as well as having the rails cut to proper length.
There's just too many dimensions that can vary for anybody to keep something
pre-cut in stock. It would involve just too many pieces of varying size to
Not one of the molding patterns offered anywhere I'm looking, though there's
this gnawing thought that I've seen 'em somewhere. I flash to the color of
a Woodworkers' Warehouse catalog, but they're defunct. Guess you'll have
to reveal and set up one machine at a time and get 'em done. Pretty much
what some of us who work in close quarters have to do anyway. At the prices
quoted for other millwork, it's worth it.
Alternatively, try the local HS IA or adult education program, or perhaps a
JC might have some facilities. Before I collected some of the current gear,
I used to "rent" the use of a machine and helper for a half dozen - actually
five, since I got one after the job wrapped - containers of beverage. Now
I have the machines, I hire myself out.
After have done literally hundreds of drawer kitchen drawer fronts and
cabinet doors, may I offer some advice or at least some assumptions from my
1. I avoid making rail and stile drawer fronts unless they are tall. A
solid piece of wood looks just fine and gives you a large flat area to
attach a drawer pull. If your drawer fronts have recessed panels you end
up with drawer pulls partially below the surface of the drawer front.
2. For me I only takes about 4 hours start to finish to cut the rails and
stiles and to mill them for a whole kitchen. The real time is invested in
door glue up, sanding, and finishing. I will not be saving much time by
buying rail and stile stock already made and that is likely to be expensive.
Remember also that if you want to buy rail and stock and cut it top length
yourself that you will still have to mill the ends of the stock and you will
have to exactly match the profile of the stiles.
3. I seldom joint or thickness plane my rails and stiles either. Simply
buy S2SE1 lumber and you are good to go if you have a decent TS. The S2SE1
lumber is uniform thickness and one edge has been ripped straight to start
I have a number of cabinets in my office that were purchased several years
ago that use rail and stile drawer fronts. I'm very happy with the look.
I don't recall saying that I was trying to save time. My problem at this
particular moment is that I don't have access to most of my machinery. I
could swing getting the SCMS and ROS and some clamps out, but getting the
table saw, planer, dust collector out right now would be problematic.
The local hardwood lumber place sells S2S that supposedly has a straight
edge. I seem to have two problems with that. First, individual boards
might be thicknessed consistently, but no two boards seem to be the same
thickness. Second, the straight edge isn't. I could probably buy the stock
and have them specifically plane all of it to the same thickness and joint
an edge. I could probably get the table saw going if I had to. However,
after having the local place do all the prep work, I was wondering if
someone could just take it the whole way and supply finished stock. It
appears that isn't available.
you could use flat rectangular rail and stile and use a small moulding L} in
the corners to simulate raised panel, if getting there is a problem. Like a
quarter round with a profile. Sort of a roggee. I bought some in oak at
borg for fuse box panel approx. 3/8" x 1/2". I used 1" x 2" select pine,
painted white, straight cut ends for frame. Plywood center. Screwd in from
sides with Lg holes and round head screws. The moulding actually protrudes
from the face frame ~1/8".
by a rail and stile and panel cutter for your 3hp table router.
get wood, cut inside mold, cut rail and stile to lenght, cut end mold, cut
raised panel. assemble and glue. why is it so hard. Alternatively buy
the doors from cabinet door provider.
If you cut the rail and stiles to length before cutting the inside mold you
save wear and tear on the stile cutter and have shorter and easier/shorter
pieces to work with when running through the stile cutter.
AND, ;~) if you run the end cut molds on the rails before the stile cuts
you can clean up the inside tear out when running the inside mold cuts.
Take a look in the back of any Fine Woodworking Mag and you'll find
jobbers that cutom make drawers, doors, etc. Try a few of them and you
might get lucky and find one that needs some work and agree to cut
parts for you.
Where are you located Todd? I am in Wichita Kansas and have a source for
low cost red oak rails and stiles. However, unless you need widths that
match the already coped rails you can't re-cut the copes unless you can
exactly match the profile. I recently made 4 doors for a shop cabinet using
this material. I mitered the corners and then reinforced with a spline.
The material is 3/4" thick and 2 1/16 wide. The lengths vary but at least
some are as long as 28". If you are close to Kansas might be able to save
you a few $.
Well, that's a good point. Even if available, the ends of the rails would
have to be coped to mate with the stiles. Looks like I either buy the
drawers and fronts or wait until I can make them myself.
Pretty much, though the problem of tool access/timing may be something you
can work out with the spouse using that information. Especially if you have
at least one "non-standard" size door which would necessitate a custom job
and a custom price.
Even the source I recall offered a limited number of sizes, though IIRC, you
had a choice of three-four panel styles to go with.
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