MDF ok for rail and stiles?

On a raised panel cabinet door thats 22 x 44", would 3/4" MDF provide adequate structure for the rail and stiles also? The rail and stiles are

3" wide.

It would use MDF for the raised panel and rather then floating (as is necessary for a solid wood door), the panel would be glued all around the 4 edges providing added structural strength. Further, I think this also would use 3 hinges when using the Blum type hidden hinges.

I could use cheap dry 2x4 milled to size also for the rail and stile, but sticking with MDF would reduce the work load.

Any thoughts of your experience are appreciated?

Reply to
trs80
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I installed MDF base molding in my house and was so impressed I thought I discovered electricity. Several months have gone by and the stuff is starting to look crappy. Yes MDF machines easily and produces crisp lines but it can't take a shot. The slightest bump with something will leave a mark or a chip. Also consider the holding power of screws in MDF, will the hinges hold in the MDF? I would go with Poplar or similar.

Reply to
RayV

If you don't mind a material that cannot stand up to normal use without showing dents, dings and other deformities, then by all means use MDF. The stuff is pure junk and should be relegated to the home improvement shows on TV.

Reply to
Mike Marlow

I think it is great stuff where appropriate. Like all materials they have both appropriate uses and inappropriate.

I love making templates from MDF if they will be short lived. Very easy to shape with any type of cutter. I also like it as underlayment when you want to add some heaft to a project. I've used it laminated under under 3/4 ply to thicken table tops to 1-1/2" and add some weight. It works great as a replacable bench top, dividers and back boards in some projects, they even make entire single piece cabinet doors from it which is fine when they do the thermal shrink coatings. It is indenspeible as a CNC bed, etc. etc.

BW

that cannot stand up to normal use without

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

It will work fine. I have at the customers request on two different houses that he has lived in used MDF for all the cabinet doors and drawers. He spray painted them himself in his garage and they looked great.

You should however use a good quality oil based paint to help guard against nicks so that the paint does not wick into the edges.

Reply to
Leon

Since he is using the Blum type hinges the weight of the door is not carried by the screws. the screws simply keep the hinge from pulling out of the

35mm holes that they fit into. >
Reply to
Leon

MDF is of course not as nice as solid wood but with proper prep and paint it will hold up very well in this application.

Reply to
Leon

I used to do a lot of that kind of work. 22mm (7/8) is much preferable because the mdf is quite flexible. Gluing the panel is good practice. Certainly three or even four hinges, the door will be heavy. Careful with clearances, especially with the thicker door.

Tim w

Reply to
Tim W

I grudgingly have to admit "I know", but I just hate MDF and sometimes I just can't keep quiet about it.

Reply to
Mike Marlow

Why not go to a 7/8" and rout the design , with a template, right into the door. There are plenty of low-cost bits just for that job. You can use a combo of bits. Using 7/8" will leave you lots of room for some pretty cool patterns. Keep in mind, that you will get radius'd inside corners, but that makes painting/sanding and cleaning afterwards alot more pleasant. You can minimize the inside radii by making a pass with a small diameter bit.

Sharp bits grow less hair on the end-grain, so do slow feed-rates. Keep the bit RPM up though. When painting, use a piss-coat of the colour you are going to use first. That will wick in, and sets you up for a tougher edge. Alkyd based, and lots of drying time, with careful sanding in between.

There are heavy laquer-based primers for MDF available, but you need to spray them. In my old shop, we did several thousands of doors that way, with great results. Especially when we glazed them with a soft contrasting wipe afterwards. Many of my customers MUCH preferred those types of doors over the vinyl vacuum-formed ones.

If I was going to go through the hassle (and tons of MDF dust) to make

5-piece doors, I'd chose poplar....hands down. ..and Leon is right, don't worry about the screws when using Blum hinges. I suggest 3 hinges there for MDF, 2 for poplar. r
Reply to
Robatoy

I do understand your point of view and 7 or 8 years ago would have agreed. It is definitely not for everything.

Reply to
Leon

You guys must be out of touch with the real world then... All of those "Remodeling Shows" make all of their high quality furniture out of MDF. I can only hope to make pieces as nice as their's some day! MDF held toghether with 18gauge brads is the only way to go if you want TRUE "heirloom quality".

Ha.. Ha.. Ha.. :-)

years ago would have agreed.

Reply to
Oughtsix

Best template material out there.

Reply to
CW

True, for some heirs. Heck, cardboard and duct tape is too good for some, since it can't be spent anyway. ;-)

-- Mark

Reply to
Mark Jerde

As you well know, there are a ton of solid mdf interior doors being sold now in the building industry these days.

As to the OP's original question ... and for him the question: Why even bother with constructing mdf rails and stiles?

Most mdf cabinet doors are made entirely of a single piece of mdf, with the "raised panel" simply routed into the face, and the edges routed in an appropriate profile.

Add a couple of 35mm hinge holes, fill, prime, paint and away you go.

If you're going with mdf in the first place, this is usually the best/easiest/longer lasting approach, IME.

Reply to
Swingman

Bingo! ... it's exactly what the big boys in the door industry do.

Reply to
Swingman

It really is!

Reply to
B A R R Y

HEY!

High-end cardboard deserves hot glue!

Reply to
B A R R Y

The last time I routed MDF I got a bunch of "fuzzies" where the bit passed (I was routing out a depression in a block). Is that a function of the MDF or of my router bit?

I would use MDF more often, but when I encountered those fuzzies I wasn't sure how to proceed. They didn't really sand out, and it just looked crappy. I had to change my project materials to jummywood and krylon!

-Nathan

solid mdf interior doors being sold now

Reply to
N Hurst

I use sheets of 1/2" for all my accurate templating. Undermount sink cut-outs need to be pretty close if you plan to mate it with a $1000.00 (+) Franke sink. They are re-usable

The cheaper under-mount sinks vary so much in size that making a template for each installation is in many cases a must.

When undermounting in laminate tops, tolerances get real goofy. MDF rules!

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Reply to
Robatoy

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