Help, oak surface treatment

Cut a very detailed threshold out of 1x6 oak board. As it turns out the color of the board is perfect complement to either room. Question: What protective coating could I apply to prevent the oak from turning darker over time? Don't want shiny, would like to stay as matte as possible. Thank you, Ivan Vegvary
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On Saturday, September 8, 2018 at 9:33:21 AM UTC-5, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

A finish may not prevent darkening.
Apply a floor finish. Burnish any gloss/high gloss finish with brown paper bag, ScotchBrite pad, burlap, or saw dust..... sometimes denim works well, also. When need refinishing, clean, sand lightly, apply new coat(s) and burnish, again.
Sonny
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On 9/8/2018 9:33 AM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

It's the latest fad, it seems <https://www.menards.com/main/paint/interior-paint-stain/polyurethane-clear-protective-finishes/floor-polyurethane/varathane-reg-matte-water-based-floor-finish-1-gal/286820/p-1444452992407.htm
Will help but will eventually age no matter what if it's not totally opaque (like paint).
--


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On Saturday, September 8, 2018 at 9:33:21 AM UTC-5, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

Irrespective of what you do, some UV is going to get through and darken the piece. But Sonny is right, a good floor finish, with a high UV content, will keep it from darkening for the longest period of time.
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Thanks to all of you.
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On 9/8/2018 9:33 AM, Ivan Vegvary wrote:

An oil based varnish will instantly add a warmer and darker glow to the wood. A water based varnish will also darken a bit but will generally not add color.
FWIW any finish will enhance a woods appearance, even plain wax. These finishes enrichen the color vs. no finish at all. Often the enhancement, bringing out the true color of the wood will appear as darkening.
To test what a water based finish will look like simply wipe a wet/damp rag over the sanded surface.
The same technique with mineral spirits will have a similar effect for an oil finish.
Because all varnishes and their secret sauce formulas are different the results will also be different to some varying degree.
Some woods darken and some lighten with exposure to UV light. If sunlight does not hit the piece there may never be any change after applying the finish. If exposed to sun light a finish with UV blockers may aid in preventing a wood from darkening or becoming lighter over time.
Just remember that most any finish. regardless of make up, will immediately change the appearance to some degree, that is what they are designed to do.
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Thank you Leon. Very informative!
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On Sunday, September 9, 2018 at 10:30:03 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:

What would a clear epoxy finish do? Something like West Systems 207 Clear Hardener.
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On 9/10/2018 11:16 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

Having never used an epoxy for a finish I do not know. But like anything else that covers the surface and brings out the woods color, it will probably appear to slightly darken.
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On Monday, September 10, 2018 at 11:16:41 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:

In this case, not much. The Hardener may be clear, but mixed with the resi n it will discolor. More importantly, in context of using it to finish a p iece of wood that will receive foot traffic, epoxy it not a good idea. Unl ess formulated specifically for wear as a top coat finish, epoxy has poor a brasion resistance.
Robert
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On Tuesday, September 11, 2018 at 2:38:27 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote :

ar

sin it will discolor. More importantly, in context of using it to finish a piece of wood that will receive foot traffic, epoxy it not a good idea. U nless formulated specifically for wear as a top coat finish, epoxy has poor abrasion resistance.

I hear you as far as wear. I was being more generic in response to Leon's comment that any finish will change the appearance of wood.
In any case, I did some looking around and all indications are that the 105 resin and 207 hardener will produce an "exceptionally clear...natural wood" finish.
One source of that claim:
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid 32
I've never tried the 207 hardener, but I'm thinking about a project where it might work. I might have to play around a bit.
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On 9/11/2018 2:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I was talking subtle, If you put any finish on half the wood, and no finish on the other half, you will see a difference. The conditioned part often looks darker to some degree if for no other reason the color is brought out better.

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On 9/11/18 1:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I use the 207 for both structural and top coats. It does have a very slight amber cast, but much less than an oil based finish. It also has a fairly low viscosity compared to other mixes.
-BR
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On Tuesday, September 11, 2018 at 1:38:27 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote :

ar

sin it will discolor. More importantly, in context of using it to finish a piece of wood that will receive foot traffic, epoxy it not a good idea. U nless formulated specifically for wear as a top coat finish, epoxy has poor abrasion resistance.

Adding to Robert's idea/info: Possibly G-Flex 650-8 epoxy might do as a t op coat and *maintain its luster, at least for a while. Another problem I sense, with using any epoxy, is refinishing, in the future. One may not be able to refinish an epoxy surface, as well or as easy, as when using a d edicated finish product.
* I filled some defects/cavities in a cedar log coffee table with G-Flex 65 0-8 epoxy, 2 yrs ago. It handles coffee table scuffing ok, I guess (so for , so good), but this scuffing is certainly not foot traffic.
Sonny
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On Tuesday, September 11, 2018 at 2:18:44 PM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
te:

lear

resin it will discolor. More importantly, in context of using it to finish a piece of wood that will receive foot traffic, epoxy it not a good idea. Unless formulated specifically for wear as a top coat finish, epoxy has po or abrasion resistance.

top coat and *maintain its luster, at least for a while. Another problem I sense, with using any epoxy, is refinishing, in the future. One may no t be able to refinish an epoxy surface, as well or as easy, as when using a dedicated finish product.

650-8 epoxy, 2 yrs ago. It handles coffee table scuffing ok, I guess (so f or, so good), but this scuffing is certainly not foot traffic.

Addendum: G-Flex 650-8 would be hard to apply, as you apply finishes. It 's too thick to flow or to brush on, nicely. It'll flow into a crack or c revice, albeit slowly. So for, it's great as a filler and an adhesive.
My previous post may have given the idea that it might make for a finish, o f sorts, but that was wrong, if interpreted that way.
Sonny
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