I'm fairly new to woodworking and have been lurking here for almost a year.
I just bought a Griz G0555 bandsaw with the riser block. Although the
reviews here in the ng were mixed, in all they seemed positive.
My problem is with getting everything lined up to make a straight cut. It
seems that no matter what I do, the workpiece wanders from the fence. It
seems that the only way I can get close to a straight cut is to draw a line
and freehand it. I am using a 3/4" 6 hook blade that was purchased from
Can someone provide a step-by-step procedure for properly setting up the
I have some black walnut logs (24" dia x 24 to 36" long) that I have
quartered and am trying to cut into usable lumber to make a coffee table and
some end tables.
You need to match the fence to the drift of the blade. Draw you line and
freehand a cut. About 1/3 the way through, stop and measure the angle of the
board with a bevel. Recheck it a few times as you finish the board. Then,
make the fence match that same angle.
I agree with the above except once you are 1/3 the way through the
test board shut off the saw without moving the board. Set your
adjustment on the fence for drift by setting it to the board. Then
lock the fence and continue the cut against the fence. It should track
down the line. You have to do this for every blade change but it
simple and quick.
I ordered the saw last Monday evening and picked it up at the shipper's dock
and assembled it Wednesday. I played with it Wed and Thur nights. So far
this is the only blade I have tried. I did run through the setup
instructions that came with the saw, but I must be missing something!
Bandsaws are a PITA to setup. Most likely you have not done anything wrong
or "missed" something. From my experience, it seems that you can put
several hours into your saw getting the blade to cut perfectly square to the
fence, only to find that if you don't get the blade tension exactly the same
every time or you change blade type and sizes, then you have to repeat the
entire squaring process again. My suggestion would be to get your saw up
and running and spend your time fine tuning any vibration out of your tool.
Then use the technique of freehand sawing a board and measuring the angle
and adjust your fence accordingly. It's much easier to adjust the fence
angle to the blade track than it is to get the blade to track square to the
Now, for slicing boards off a log (resawing), you want to use a wide
resawing blade, in fact, the widest your saw can handle. The wider blade
will assist in making a long, straight, clean cut. Also, blade quality
makes a BIG difference. Invest in a good quality blade - you won't regret
it. Search the Google archives for tons of info on bandsaw blades and
WoodChuck, these are the blades I purchased from Suffolk Machinery,
TimberWolf Blades, for that very saw and the riser kit. They were
recommended for resawing 10" or so, scroll type work such as bandsaw boxes
etc and general small work, in that order. I may eventually add a 1/2" to
use in the general category. Order from Suffolk is by phone only and they
will ask your application needs and recommend the blade. I let them do and
so far am very satisfied with the blades. . .and the price! Hope this helps.
1 ea 3403AS, 3/4" x 105"(3AS-S .025")
1 ea 14046PC, 1/4" x 105"(6PC .025)
1 ea 31604PC, 3/16" x 105"(4PC .025)
Total about $61 shipped.
They cut magnificently! I do not get the drift some here speak of. I have
yet to try the 3/4" blade.
I have my blade adjusted so the teeth ride up to the center of the tire
I have the Grizzly 1019 saw. When I first got the saw I was using the Grizzly
blades. After trying everything in Mark Duginske's "The Bandsaw Handbook"
(recommended), out of frustration I called Grizzly's tech support. After
explainingg the problems I was having, Grizzly's tech rep stated "you'd do much
better buying your blade elsewhere". He was right.
Buffalo, NY - USA
I got my Griz a few months ago with the same setup you have. I did two
things right away - bought several Olsen blades ( or Timberwolf if you
prefer) and bought a replacement spring to handle the 3/4" blade. I got the
spring from Iturra Designs - about $16 but well worth the effort.
Have had little problems cutting a straight line using the fence. The
smallest blade I've used is 3/8 but that tracks fine also.
From a lot of what I've read, the quality of the blade makes a big
difference in the tracking.
I found your problem. Get a new blade.
I recommend either the Suffolk Timberwolf blade
or the Woodslicer from Highland Hardware
Buffalo, NY - USA
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