Blade flex (revisited), cleaning

I took a look at it. No apparent problem with what you suggest on my TS.

Peetie

What do you mean by apparent? Did you actually measure it? You didn't want to buy the sites jig, I didn't either, and I suggested you make your own as it is easy to do. All of your symptoms point to this alignment issue with the saw. Art

You are trolling, right? A direct drive piece of junk with a 20 year old

Just in case you aren't trolling:

Sears is notorious for "rated" HP abuse. It takes 745 watts to equal 1hp without counting losses in the motor. Read the nameplate on the motor and figure it out.

Direct drive table saws are the cheapest of the cheap. Sometimes referred to as job site saws.

A 20 year old blade? When was it last sharpened?

A 40 tooth blade is for crosscutting. A rip blade is usually 24 tooth or thereabouts.

If you can't afford to replace the cheap saw, at least get a good thin kerf rip blade like:

Isn't the OP the same poster who said he had no significant blade runout but couldn't quantify it? Some people won't take advice.

I have a suspicion he's trolling.

If only one side of the kerf is scorching with the blade tilted, that's a dead giveaway. If both sides, clean the blade, sharpen it, or replace it.

One more possibility -- right or left tilt saw? Which side of the blade are you using the fence on?