Should have mentioned that If a blade turns in an opposite direction the
bolt will loosen in the same opposite direction. Retaining bolts and
nuts loosen in the same direction that the object spins with few
exceptions. Automotive wheels being an exception unless you look at
some old Chrysler products.
My gut reaction, after hearing what you tried, is to weld or perhaps braze,
either a nut, or the head end of a bolt, to the mangled bolt and use a
wrench on it. Alternatively, weld a length of black pipe, angle iron, etc.
to the bolt head and use it as the "wrench." In the later case if you cut
out the side of the end of the "wrench" so it fits over the nut you can tack
it on two sides and maybe the top of the damaged bolt head... longer is
Well, "impact driver" - http://tinyurl.com/l3r9abp
Given subsequent posts to the one I responded to, I have no idea what
either party is really talking about. My post here may or may not have
LOL. Yes your reference is certainly an impact driver and it does, with
a blow of a hammer, exert a forward and a twisting force to loosen or
tighten a screw.
Below is probably the other style being talked about that most of
today's wood workers are more familiar with. And these too do a good
good at removing compromised screw heads. I remodeled a kitchen some
years back and the owners thought it would be a good idea to fill the
screw heads with a hard wood putty. My Makita impact worked very well
with getting the screws out despite the fact that the heads were filled.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)07156701&sr=1-6&keywords=makita+18v+impact+driver+kit
If you get the blade to move independent of the spindle assembly, it
might just loosen things up enough to remove it. A couple ideas come to
mind, but are more or less "go for broke" ideas.
The first is to hit the blade with a hammer out near the end. Repeated
blows in the loosen direction might be enough to free things up.
Chances are, though, the spindle will want move. This could be
dangerous, especially if the mower has been lifted.
Another is to attach the blade to a lever. I once used carriage bolts
drilled through a 2x4 to make a rebar bender, and something similar may
work here. The minimum is two carriage bolts, one on either side of the
blade, but a third one with a large washer to clamp the lever to the
blade will probably be easier to use. (I find when working under my
mower the hardest part is keeping the tool in place against gravity.)
This will probably have the same spindle movement problem of the first
Have you priced out replacement spindles?
Will try the heat and hitting the blade also==I do have a problem
holding the tools up wile lying under the mower as I have had shoulder
surgery and do not have much strength there. If that dose not work I
will have her take it to a repair shop and get a nut welded on and have
them work on it. I doubt if a replacement spindle is available as it is
a 50's or 60's model.
Heat the head of the bolt red hot, and smack it good with a hammer.
Heat it red hot again and quench it with lots of cold water. Then use
a "stripped head bolt remover" socket. If that doesn'r work have
someone arc weld a big nut on the end of the bolt (weld to the head
through the threaded hole of the big nut) and spin it off with the
Water often works every bit as well as the penetrant. Quenching with
water shocks the rust criystals and makes them real fine - and water
mixed with the ultrafine rust actually acts as a lubricant. Oil based
penetrants have a tendancy to just boil off or burn when you squirt
them on something red hot, and water removes more heat faster.
I feel your pain -Had shoulder surgery a few years back - it's better
than before the surgery, but still not 100% - gatta watch what I do
As for getting parts - I had to make a new spindle shaft for my 24"
mower - about the same age. Lathe comes in handy once in a while!!
He needs to get a decent head on the bolt first if he is going to use
an impact. A "grip-tite" socket will grab a worn bolt head, but will
grenade itself if used on a good impact gun (likely on a rotten impact
One question. Is the spindle boted to the top of the deck or the
bottom? If bolted to the bottom, remove the bulley, unbolt the
assembly from the deck and drop it out - and work on it at the
workbench, or take the spindle and blade to the shop to have the
munged bolt removed.
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