My Table Saw Aligner Jr. finally arrived the other day. Today I put it
on the saw and took some measurements.
The blade is 0.01 (10 thou) out of parallel from the miter slot,
measured from the front to the back of the blade with the blade raised
all the way.
I just measured the blade plate. I know you're supposed to measure the
same tooth front and back, but it's really difficult to move the blade
by hand and have it end up in the right place because of the belts. Is
this really a critical issue?
The fence is 0.02 (20 thou) out of parallel from the miter slot. The
back of the fence is further away than the front (which is the better
direction to be out by).
At these "close enough"? Are they worth worrying about to try and get
better or will I just end up chasing a level of precision that's not
practical to achieve?
If the fence and blade skews are in the same direction you could be off
by as much as 1/32" over 7 or 8 inches. To me this is too much.
I was able to get my WW II blade parallel to the miter slot within
+/-0.0005". (I can't do that with non-Forrest blades though.)
My Unifence diverges from being parallel with the miter slot by about
0.004 at the back of the blade when compared to the distance away at the
front of the blade.
Happily, when I re-check I find that there is no measurable movement
Roy Smith wrote:
That's true, but my experience is that the Forrest blades are extremely
flat, my other's aren't. I just got a couple of Freud blades back that
I sent to Forrest to have sharpened. I'll see how these perform now.
They were not flat before.
Well, another point: when you try to use blade plate flatness as a basis, what
happens if the arbor flange is a hair off in one direction or the other? The
blade may be perfect or as close as possible. If the flange is off, you're
Of course, all of this should start with a check of flange flatness (feeler
gauge and an accurate, short straightedge), arbor washer flatness, and arobor
run out. Do that before you start fooling with blade to miter slot alignment
and fence alignment. You can, if you wish, buy specific measuring plates of a
guaranteed flatness to help in the latter stages. But the best way still is to
mark one tooth, put on a good, sturdy glove and MOVE that thing front or back
as needed. After all, you will be working with that blade, so getting things
accurate with that blade is sensible.
"We're 269 days from the election, and that's several political lifetimes."
TERRY HOLT, Bush campaign spokesman.
Typically Forrest is very competitive for sharpening
IIRC To simply resharpen my 40 tooth WWII, $20.
To bring the flatness back to factory specs, sharpen, test cut, and return
shipping the cost was about $37.00.
Take a look here
I looked at using their service but the shipping ran the cost out of bounds.
Of course I live in the nasty old big city. That does have the advantage of
competitive and abundant availability of everything. We get excellent
sharpening service for $16 and of course, no shipping.
I thought that the Shipping was a bit strong also but, My local service in
Houston is not a slouch. They have computerized sharpening machines that
even recognize a blade that they have sharpened before. While I thought
that they did a good job for the many years that I used them, I was unhappy
with the results. The blade cut more quickly but the cut was also more
rough than before they resharpened it. They sharpen to 600 grit IIRC. I
used the blade for 2 months and then tried to tilt the blade while it was
elevated in the zero clearance insert... ;~) Don't do that. This time I
sent it to Forrest for sharpening, to bring it back to factory specs, test
cut, and to ship it back for $17 more than the local shop charges to just
sharpen. The blade cut like new when I got it back. IMHO the Forrest
service is the best and worth the extra for shipping.
Hey, Leon, I'm in Houston, too! We should compare notes. I drop my blades
off at the Cutting Edge. I'm pretty sure they sub the work out to MVP
Sharpening. Is that who you used? I swear my 50T freud was better than new
when I got it back. I've not let them have a go at my WWII yet, but its so
new that it has not needed resharpening yet.
I know what you mean about tilting the blade. :-)
Yeah Bob, The Cutting Edge is or was sending off to MVP.. I have been using
MVP since the late 80's when they also sold power tools. They do a good job
but Forrest whips them IMHO. I will say however, there could have been a
slight problem with my Forrest when I took it into MVP but still I think the
quality of cut was not as good after sharpening. Unfortunately MVP does not
or did not flatten blades at the time. I believe that checking for flatness
and reflattening if necessary should be done while being sharpened now.
The blade cut good as new again.
Yes. Just measuring the blade plate, you have no way of knowing if what you
are measuring is arbor alignment, blade warp, flange alignment or a
combination of all three. I have never tried intentional misalignment to
find out how much is to much but Ed Bennet recommends .005 or less. I would
imagine that he has tried it.
If this was measured over the entire length of the fence, I'd leave it
alone. If it was measured over the length of the blade, I'd get it closer.
Yes! What if one tooth you chose is bent,a nd another isn't? Also,
some blades have more set in the teeth than others, choosing different
teeth on opposite set sides may mess you up. If you use the same
tooth, it dosen't matter.
How does it cut wood? That's my final measurement, and the one that
really counts in my opinion.
I already did that and he said they would set up a committee to evaluate the
problem, failing that he will call for a full house vote on the floor
whether or not to take the matter under advisement. mjh
"Edwin Pawlowski" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
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