I have a wrought iron gate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of the gate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.
How are the hinges mounted? Sure you can't make an adjustment there?
The real solution is to fix the hanging post or the closing side to
return the opening back to its full width. Chopping on the gate isn't a
real good solution as that will then be there from now on...
On Jul 1, 1:12 am, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
OK, more info was needed.
1) Smitty, a picture was sent to you. I don't think I can post pics to
dpb, send me your email address please.
2) The hinges are fixed and attached to the frame. This is attached to
a block wall (the wall has most likely moved). I might be able to buy
smaller hinges (with less of a gap), but then the gate might get stuck
on that side.
3) If the guy wanted to replace the latch-post with a smaller one, or
plane it somehow, I could not do that myself. Anyhow, I'm entitled to
get bids, so I need to compare what he's going to do, to anyone else's
bid including my own hack job. If his price is fair & worth $100+ then
he'll get the job!
4) It's 117 in Phoenix!
Can't tell for sure, but it looks like the stucco'd stack of block next to
the house, that the latch is attached to, is pulling away from the house.
Anyway to fine-tune reality and draw that up against the house? Looks like
they didn't have enough foundation under the post, and it moved around with
changes in soil moisture.
After seeing the pics, $150 for a 'pretty' repair sounds cheap. Up north, on
old brick buildings where stuff moved around, they would sometimes lace it
back together with bigass bolts or rods, right through the wall of the
building. In some cases, they even samk the interior bolt heads/washers into
the wall and mudded over with plaster. In a warehouse or non-public area,
they would just leave them exposed.
I just checked, and both sides of the frame are level.
I know it looks like the block is "pulling away from the house", but
from the inside view, it's not that bad. I believe $150 is for a hack
job on the latch-post. Maybe grinding the nut like Smitty suggests.
IMO, the only pretty solution would be a new gate, and that's gonna
cost more then $150.
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 19:03:24 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Hard to see the problem. But maybe drill a mounting hole, or attach a
mounting plate, at the bottom and near the corner of the gate so that
you can bolt on castor wheel. This wheel will support the weight of
the gate and lift slightly higher so that it won't bind on the hinge.
!!!! Why is that there at all? That wasn't in the original
installation. How was it supposed to have been attacned?
Why did no one paint it black? Can you take it out, hammer or drill a
countersink** into the metal, and put the same or thinner-headed bolt
**I have no idea if one could do this. If it is all wrought iron, if
it is solid or hollow. If it's solid, surely there's room to
countersink it, although then you couldn't use a hex head. So what,
get a screwdriver head or torx head (if they come big enough.
Probably do.) There are lots of heads that don't require a wrench
around the outside.
If it's hollow, but has an opposite side, maybe a larger hole can be
made in the side closer to the gate, and then a screw can be put in
that holds only the side close to the wall. Non-hex so the first
layer hole doesn't have to be so big. You could plug the bigger hole
with a black plastic "plug" or hammer in a dowel rod and paint it
black. Or leave the hole./
You should have pointed out where the problem was when you first
posted the pictures, because a lot of time was afaict spent by
everyone on things that are not the problem. Some people I'm sure
gave up, so it's in your interest to to present the whole problem at
I can't see the silver thing from the other side of the fence.
The silver thing is a nut. If I remove it, I have the "tail" of a
bolt. This bolt is coming out of the block wall & through the hollow
post. I can only assume that it was pushed out when they built the
wall. Also removing that nut will free the post from the top of the
wall. I think I explained it pretty well, except I wasn't clear about
it Stopping the gate from moving the last inch.
I made it sound like it was binding or friction. That was last year,
now we've moved on to the gate slamming into the nut. Anyway, I'm
probably going to do Smitty's solution, and install a flat/flush head
in another hole, and cut the problem bolt out of the way. If it goes
smoothly, I might also do the bottom bolt/nut. That one has plenty of
clearance for now.
Sometimes you can use a car jack and a 4 x 4 post cut to size between the
openings of a gate to move the posts further apart. Just keep jacking until
the post(s) have moved where they need to be. Do this near the ground.
If you are going to do this, soak the ground first. Get it soaking
wet. So the post will move without bending or breaking.
I"ve done this for a wooden fence post, that held a gate that was
sagging, but I disconnected the fence first. The OP doesn't say what
kind of fence he has, and he should have, because there are several
kinds of fence that might have a wrought iron gate. So I can't tell
if it is possble to disconnect the fence, or what will happen if he
doesn't, because each material, and other details, are different.
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