Yes. As far as I can tell though its not the fault of inadequate screwdriver tightening ability, more down to lazy operators and the natural tendency of screws to loosen regardless.
NT
It's not about the "most torque that can be generated", it's about "most torque that can be applied, whilst still retaining control along angular slipping".
There's a good website out there with a careful study of this. Think the URL was posted last time this question came up.
Yeah, but try doing anything up tight with a stubby... :-(
Its a human factor, its easier to align a long shafted screwdriver and twist it. It makes no difference if its a powered driver or if you are experienced with screwdriving.
Use mole grips on the handle?
Even if you don't do live work, if you do *enough* work, there will come a time you go to undo the wrong screw, or need to remove a MCB from a live busbar, or for that matter just work near a live circuit.
On a practical level, I found there came a point were it wasted far too much time sharing basic tools like screwdrivers between different kits and boxes - so the electrical tool box got a set of its own, and there was no point in them not being insulated.
Part P does not stop you going into a CU anyway... for example adding a spur to an existing circuit, not in a special location; that spur can be from the circuit origin at the CU. Upgrading main equipotential bonding is also non notifiable and may require access to the CU.
Probably a case of when applying a high torque you will probably move the handle of the driver laterally a bit. That changes the angle of the driver in the screw and may cause it to cam out. The longer shaft reduces the angular effect of that lateral movement.
The other thing I have noticed is that the screwdriver you select makes a big difference. Pick what most people would consider to be a good electrical terminal screwdriver (i.e. something fairly small with a traditional flared end), and do a screw up so that it feels nice an tight, and then set about it with a proper terminal driver with a straight shaft and end, and a handle twice the diameter and you realise it was not really very tight at all in the first place.
Is there a good online reference site with what you Can and cannot do with regard to domestic part P work anywhere?..
And come to that covering non-domestic works too?..
There is loads of stuff scattered about - but no one single point of reference that I am aware of. Perhaps we ought to wiki it?
Part P only covers domestic work.
Seems to me that it would be a rather good idea a practical guide to what can and can't be done by the DIY'er..
Yes indeed.. I thought that there are some parts that were covered by a P like system tho I may well be totally rong on that!..
>
As has been said before - anything. What changes is whether you need to building notice it or not.
Perhaps that should be the focus what is an is not "notifiable"...
There may well be other legislation that applies - not my area...
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.