Converting 2 gang socket to 3 gang

[NOSPAMnet]

If you have a 2 gang socket is it OK to use one of these to convert it to a 3 gang if the socket is a spur?

?ts=35186

[BigWallop]

is a spur off.

Go cheaper and plug in a three gang switched extension lead.

[Toby]

this is the case, then it's fine. It does however mean, you are only able to draw 13A from all three sockets combined. So depending on what you are plugging into it, this may or may not be an issue for you.

Toby...

[Rod]

I can confirm that it has a little fuse "drawer" on the left end. Note also that it fits slightly asymmetrically - with an overhang of around

45mm to the left and 25mm to the right. You also need to allow around 20mm to enable the fuse drawer to open and to be closeable.

One oddity - visible in the picture - is that the switches are to the left of the socket they control. IME, most sockets have the switch to the right.

[dennis]

You can fit them as they are fused and limit the current to one sockets worth. I have been fitting the four way ones as going from two sockets to three is as useful as going to four and they cost about the same.

[Rod]

Having looked further, I have found another oddity - the screws. Most screws for back boxes I have seen have either been ordinary machine screws with a straight-across cut end, or slightly fancier ones with a step and an unthreaded bit which seems to help with locating them.

The Clipsal Converta 2 to 3 socket came with screws the like of which I don't think I have ever seen! So here is a picture:

I have a feeling that they might actually work well - but will not know until I have tried. But does anyone know what this sort of screw end is called?

[NOSPAMnet]

Lok more like self tappers .

[Rod]

Yes - but the tapered thread seems no sharper edged than a normal machine screw thread. And is only very short so is quite rounded/blunt.

Having now used them, they did seem to locate well - something that is quite often awkward with the normal forms. I think that if they approach the threaded hole slightly off-centre, that end bit will tend to centre the screw.

[NOSPAMnet]

Was it a plastic surface box you fixed them to or a metal one ?

[Rod]

I did it to a not-in-use plastic box to see what happened. When I fitted for real it that was to a standard metal back box in the wall.

[ARWadsworth]

Rod

I do know what you mean (because I have fitted these converters many times). Your link does not work for the photo.

Adam

[Rod]

Ooops - must have dropped a few characters.

But you don't know what they are called either. :-)

[BigWallop]

Those screws are "Self Tappers" because they come to a sharp point and will cut their own hole. Where do the instructions say they should be used? Does the three gang socket have holes at the ends to fix them back to the wall? Does the converta have a knock out on the back to fix it to the existing back box? Doe the converta come with its own back box for surface mounting onto an existing sunken back box?

Or, in other words, tell us more about this "Converta" thing you've bought

[ARWadsworth]

They are called "a pain in the arse". You did not show the screw heads. They take a PH2 (or PH1 I forget) screwdriver not a PZ driver. No sparky carries a PH screwdriver.

I have swapped many of these for bog standard but longer M3.5 machine screws as the back box was too deep to accept the ones that came with the converter.

As to their real name, I have no idea :-)

Adam

[dennis]

The four way ones are surface mount. The connection is to the ring main wires into normal screw terminals. It screws to the existing back box either single or double. The actual terminals stick out the back and go into the back box.

[Rod]

They are categorically not self-tappers. The end is far too blunt. No way could they cut a hole even in a piece of cardboard, let alone a steel back box.

Not sure exactly what the instructions say in words - but as with so many modern electrical things, the pair of screws was clipped to the back of the socket.

The 3 to 2 overhangs a bit at each end (I think I posted 45 and 25 mm L & R respectively) but there are no additional screws. There is no knock out. It has a couple of lugs that fit quite neatly just in front of the holes in a standard double back box. These screws go from just below the earth holes for two sockets, through the lugs, into the back box.

[Rod]

Yes - noticed that as well. But I did have a full set of all needed screwdriver types to hand at the time. :-)

[BigWallop]

Like this

?I see where the screws are meant to go in this picture. The Converta does not have any type of back box on its own, so the edges are deeper to allow for the depth of the sockets inside.

I'd go with what Adam (ARWadsworth) has advised, and get a couple of longer length 3.5mm retainer screws for this job. The screws provided look like they will damage the lugs on any back box, metal or ABS.

I'd hate to use them on a plasterboard box. They would tear the screw inserts right out.

[Rod]

?

Yep - exactly like that (but obviously it is a triple). :-)

The screws were really good! I'd not replace them. Unlike square cut or stepped screws, they seemed to locate in the threaded lug of the back box very easily and without that 'is it going to cross-thread?' feel I have often noticed with normal screws. The threads, though tapered, are smooth. I don't think they are likely to cause any damage at all - I'd have no qualms using them on any box. They locate well, do up easily and undo just as well.

[BigWallop]

Mmmm !!!!! I'll have to have a look at them. I did notice the thread was tight, like a standard 3.5 mm retainer, but thought the screw itself looked a little to wide.

I will have a look the next time I'm in the wholesaler. I've just found out from their website that they have these "converta" things in stock. :-)