toilet waste pipe question

VIVA PP0006 swan neck pan connector may give you an extra 15mm clearance at the back compared to the connector you show in the image.

You would probably also need a short flexi connector and possibly cutting a bit off the fixed coupling.

Temporarily remove the waste, push the toilet back to the wall and measure the distance between the back of the pan waste and the wall.

You may also gain another 10mm (8mm tile + cement) clearance if you don't tile behind the small area where the pan waste emerges - your fixed 90 bend would fit in this un-tiled area. If you are going to box in the waste into the soil stack you could leave off the bottom row of tiles on the wall and tile the box section .

And

Good point I never thought of that although the `box-in` part is under debate at the moment, `she` wants it boxed in I reckon its pretty much hidden behind the pan and not worth the bother. Maybe the waste pipe will decide.

A kitchen fitter would happy inset waste and other fittings into the wall if they weren't finally visible.

In other words, if you're going to box the pipework in, you can remove the plaster and more if it helps moving the toilet back to the wall.

It's always a good idea for the arrangement to allow easy access for maintenance such as moving the pan for inlet or flush replacement or to get to the soil stack input for blockages. A boxed in section may suffer damage during these activities.

BTW, a swan neck/space saver bend would give you much more clearance than the 15mm I suggested as coupling in your image extends back beyond the 160mm of the bend. The swan neck brings the straight section of the coupling towards the front of the pan and possibly very close to being in-line with the soil stack connection.

I have a Slinky-fit flexible pan connector to fit[1] similar to the one currently fitted to your pan. Properly seated into the pan a 90 degree bend requires approximately 185 to 190 mm clearance at the back of the pan so the fixed (swan neck) is probably your best bet with a additional short straight flexi to the soil pipe.

Typos corrected!

Horrible, horrible.

And bring the pipe forward a bit to meet the stack inlet. Now when you take the side off the stack boxing to make it plumb you might also be able to rotate the stack inlet counter clock a bit so that there isn't kink where it joins the flexy. B-)

As has been said take the existing thing off push the loo back to where it should be an measure the clearance. Don't get caught by the dimensions on the inset drawing. That fitting doesn't have a total depth of 40 + 75

• 41 = 156 mm but 40 + 75 + (110 / 2) = 170. Though the drawing isn't consistent as it also shows 55 + 110 = 165 mm... It's also not clear how far the toilet spigot goes into the fitting.

Thanks for pointing that out, I never noticed that.

The toilet pan needs to come out soon to finish tiling the walls and then the floor so will get clearance measurements then.

Before posting this I didnt really have a clue how to measure it up so useful info for me. Thanks.

If in doubt, get the pan connectors that will take them back without a fuss, then you can get a couple of different options and try them out if necessary.

And double and triple check all those measurements.

I'm still annoyed after refitting a bathroom last year, I had a soil pipe going through and connecting to another one in the adjoining WC, I had everything carefully worked out, pipe in place, fixed, new plasterboard around it etc.

When I came top refit the pan after tiling something didn't line up right. IIRC I forgot to allow for the wall tiling moving the pan forward slightly. It was enough to ensure that things wouldn't fir together properly anymore so I have had to use a flexi connector.