Suggestions please - Stuck 1m drill bit

I was trying to suggest that whatever method was found should not prevent the facility to tap forwards as well.

Can you clamp a mole grips on the shaft, two strips of aluminium to protect the wall, then cold chisels between the ally and either side of the jaws of the mole grips. Tap the chisels in to wedge the shaft backwards.

I wondered if something could be done with some form of bearing puller - either a real one or one made with a clamp in the middle of a plate and some screws.

The same thought has been puzzling me since last night :) It needs the opposite of a conventional bearing puller - something that will clamp the drill and push against the wall. That's the thinking behind the bottle jack idea. Can you think of anything smaller?

Try attaching a different SDS machine with a stronger clutch...

Not necessarily. The _tip_ has to be harder :-)

How about this:

Get two pieces of steel plate and drill through the middle of each with a hole slightly larger than the drill.

Then put three or four more holes in one, big enough for an M8 - say - bolt to go through comfortably.

Put a bolt through each with a nut just run on below it.

Put the 1-hole plate over the drill, then the two hole. Now clamp something to ththe end of your drill by whatever means you can to stop it sliding through the holes (the best approach would seem to be to weld a large nut or similar lump onto it).

Now tighten the bolts through the nuts, a few turns at a time each. For ease you'll need lots of spanners and a ratchet wrench. With luck you'll pull it out of the wall. If it goes wrong the whole thing will hurtle backwards across the room when the clamp comes off or the drill breaks.

This relies on the drill being about an inch or so proud of the wall. If too long, cut it off.

It occurred to me that if you have the welder handy, welding the nuts to the plate would make the whole thing a lot less fiddly.

My 1st idea would have been to use a better sds drill with reverse ( i've had grief before with a dewalt that had a clutch that slips far to readily ) Failing that the slide hammer approach is favourite - one made up with an sds chuck on the end or iirc you can get sds extensions ? if so make up a slide hammer with it

good luck - Jeff

================ I don't know about the case hardening but I would be inclined to try a die on the drill and see what happens. You'll soon know if it's going to work or not.

In view of the small size of the drill (10mm) I would avoid a twisting motion as much as possible and try to get a straight pull. I assume that you're prepared to sacrifice the drill with a view to getting it out and restarting with a new drill. If so, it might be worth following the suggestion of another poster to weld something on to the bit if cutting a thread fails. If possible get some kind of plate attached and lever from two opposite sides at the same time to avoid bending the bit. The straighter the pull or leverage, the more likely you are to succeed.

Cic.

A 10mm drill?!?! I thought it would be something a bit more manly!

Heat it up red with a gas torch, bend it over with some pliers, stick a wrecking bar through the eye, hold a block on the wall, and pull the bugegr out.

Is this the professional equivalent of 'My friend has this problem...' ;-)

After a bit of thought...

What you need is a Haven Grip, a short length of chain and a Hi Lift jack.

If that combination doesn't get it out, then you are up the proverbial....

Haven grip

Rick... (The other Rick)

Suddenly occurred to me, you don't need a Haven Grip, you need a short length of steel rope, a number of rope clamps and a Hi Lift jack.

Clamp the rope to the protruding drill bit using the clamps, and jack the bit out. I should imagine that with a 4,660 lbs (2113.74 kg) rated capacity the jack would be able to pull the bit out.

Hope this helps...

Rick... (The other Rick)

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember Roger saying something like:

Rubble-filled walls are a common thing where I am and I've come close to losing a drill bit on several occasions because of shifting infill. I developed a feel for it eventually and have been lucky enough so far.

All the more reason to drill from the outside, all the dust and crap stays out of the house and and breakout can be easily repaired, plus you can cuss and swear all you like while the customer carries on in ignorant bliss inside. (I know it doesn't help!)

You should never drill from the outside unless you are on very good terms with a local plasterer and decorator. The blowout can be up to 12 inches diameter for some interior plaster. It's also easier to drill down rather than up as you would need to do from outside. Then there is knowing that the drill bit will emerge where you want it.

Job is booked for Tuesday afternoon. I have attached an axle slide hammer to a drill press vice with some big bolts, so I think the engineer might be in with a chance. We'll see. :-)

Have been following this thread with some ineterst.

I epitomises everthing thats good about this NG..

Advice, brainstorming, humour, more humour... - wonderful... I gues it's driven by a sort of - "there but for fortune" sort of feeling...

I do hope the OP will let us know the outcome...

The problem must have been fixed by now - one way or another... :-) Roy

The message from "Andy Luckman (AJL Electronics)" contains these words:

Best of luck.

As a matter of interest how heavy is the weight on the slide hammer and what is the length of free movement?