I've bought a wooden blind from Ikea which is marginally too wide at the bottom of the kitchen window as I forgot about the tiles we'd fitted!
To trim it by approx 1cm on each side can I simply stick them together using tape and cut using a hand saw?
Ikea have a gadget for trimming aluminium blinds but not wooden which are about 1-2mm thick.
I did the same thing but used a jig saw which my brother in law had used before me on the same thing. The results in both cases was perfect. Not too sure about a hand saw though, unless you can saw very straight and neat.
Huh! you could file a 1cm off.
-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
But why when you can more easily saw it off?
When I done my engineering training I had to file a block of 2" steel to
1&6/8" square :-( ...Icm would be a doddle-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Tape probably won't hold the slats together firmly enough - something like a drill vice is good if you pad the jaws with a bit of cardboard.
1&6/8" = engineering training = LOL -
Explain yourself?
-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
I presume he is stating that 1&6/8" is more commonly referred to as 1 & 3/4"
HTH
John
PS. I did the same 'project' as part of my engineering apprenticeship in the late 70's
So what would he refer to if I said 1&5/8"?
Heh! so did I, about 75ish.
-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
All kinds of engineering are required. 'Big hammer' engineering is just as important as toolmaker 'you need a thou' off that width' - and you wouldn't pay for the latter to repair your car.
I trimmed a blind. I pressed the ends of the slats together and bound them securely together, no gaps, using masking tape. Then I marked out the cut and chopped off the excess. Make sure there is plenty of tape inboard of the cut so the slats do not fly apart as you cut, but make sure there is tape also over the area to be cut to prevent the top and bottom slats from splintering when sawn.
Finaly, I lacquered the ends using aerosol lacquer to prevent moisture ingress, as I feared the slats might twist if they weren't fully protected from moisture ingress.
Care is needed to get a good finish, and a final sanding of the cut end before lacquering is advisable too o get a decent appearance.
Andy.
That came later.
And just for you Mark if 1&6/8 was down on the work sheet then who am I to go to the powers that be and say...this should be 1&3/4"
-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Sorry I was being pedantic When I was at school you would never _ever_ dare write 1-6/8
1.750 perhaps.. :-) -Parcel tape tight and firmly held against bench hook or something similar and cut with fine tenon or dovetail saw
cheers
Jacob
Tape all together very tightly, clamp to bench and saw off with a cir saw (with a fine toothed blade), jigsaw or carefully with a hand saw
Or
Hammer and chisel!!
;-
-- Cordless Crazy
The message from "Mark" contains these words:
It probably has no application in this instance but I have a (very) vague memory of a convention for unstated limits in which the nature of the units gave some guidance to the tolerances required in which case I would expect dimensioning in eighths would demand a closer tolerance than dimensioning in quarters.
Ha!, When I were a lad, in filing school, they gave me steel bar and some files and told me to make a straight edge. Accurate to within 1 thou ( that's 1 thou everywhere, checked on a table with engineering blue).
Gosh, those were the days.... took me ages.
Rick... (The other Rick)
The finest cut that I personally have come across is one of those small "pull saws" takes a bit of getting used to, but boy does it cut fine... Rick... (The other Rick)
That's a project? I had to file a gauge to 3thou and then make a "c" clamp from a square or metal 1/2" thick including turning and threading the screw for my O level. I didn't realise engineering was being dumbed down like the rest of the GCSEs these days. ;-)
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