Oh, I remember doing that in a friend's Westfield, trying to tweak parameters on the fly while bouncing around country lanes at Mach 2... :-) (that was an Emerald M3D ECU and a crappy old Gateway laptop which had woefully short battery life for doing such things...)
cheers
Jules
Kinda my point. Although I suspect Dave's Rover is considerably more comfortable.
And it's been raining continuously here for about 3 weeks...
It might be easier to make up a box containing a keyboard and add large buttons mechanically connected to the appropriate keys.
Most keyboards are membranes these days, so its going to be tough to get at the right lines. Brian
I have an AFR readout built into the car's instruments. ;-)
Probably on the inside lane of a motorway.
Thanks for the offer, Peter. I've already bought a good quality secondhand separate desktop type off Ebay for not a lot. All the spare ones I have lying around here are PS2. ;-)
That actually sounds more difficult to me. But the end result would be too large anyway.
Same comment, really.
the Keyboard company sell cherry switches
Sounds like you have fun building your own stuff but here is a link to ready made units that might be what you need. The URL is kind of long as I don't like to hide them behind a site that shortens them.
Think you've missed the requirement. I don't want a complete keyboard - just the arrow keys. And intend paying as little as possible. I reckon I can do it for under a tenner using bits I've got lying around.
So trim them down to the minimum that still works
The membrane is usually only used to short pads on a PCB though... so if you can get at that you are ok.
Define "PCB". I have keyboards apart where the bit under the keys is a flat sheet of plastic with tracks on, a seperator sheet with holes at each key position and another sheet of plastic also with tracks on but with bumples that the keys press on to make contact between the two sets of tracks. Are those sheets "membranes" or "PCBs"?
AIUI, membranes are the ones where you have 2 sheets of plastic with tracks of conductive 'whatever'. They can be a bastard to fix using silver loaded epoxy. If you 'clean' the tracks (contact points) you can virtually guarantee that you've screwed them. But hey, the plonker knows best, LMFAO.
For your application the slightly more robust sort with a more traditional PCB and conductive rubber key tops would be a better bet.
Probably Jaguars.
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