The bit where you screw the shower hose onto the shower mixer is damaged and leaks water. I have had some success with lots of ptfe tape but it doesn't seem to last. Is this a job for epoxy putty or is there something else?
New washer/O ring. Clean the sufaces before sticking the rubber in.
A picture would be a big help. Usually the outlet is too substantial to get damaged. The repair will depend on the nature of the damage.
Make/model of mixer would be a help too.
Tim
+1. I'd be more inclined to use silicone than epoxy because that would give you a better chance of replacing the hose later if you need to. But the epoxy putties are very effective.
The outlet is usually brass and has a flat sealing face. Leakage is usually due the the rubber washer in the hose connection having perished away. Being a nurd, I take a spare washer in my holiday trousers pocket as inevitably rented villas have a leak. The thread is not part of the seal - it merely provides a clamping force.
Sorry I can't provide a picture but it is as John describes. Brass with a flat sealing face but the outlet is slightly D shaped and maybe the sealing face is no longer flat. I think someone clamped it with a pliers (not me honest). Maybe the sealing face is no longer flat. I have tried it with a new hose and washer.
Am I right in thinking that if the thread is not part of the seal then my ptfe tape hasn't actually been doing anything?
If it has a flat face, then no, the threads don?t have a sealing function. A new hose and washer should work unless there?s something else wrong that you haven?t told us. PTFE tape on the threads may allow you to do the fitting up a bit tighter and compress the washer more but the the seal is made by the washer.
Tim
So if the ptfe is doing nothing then epoxy putty and silicone wouldn't do anything either. What about doubling up on the washer? It is for a customer so I can't try it at the moment.
What about screwing on the nut from a 1/2 inch (?) brass compression fitting first to see if that cleans up or re-cuts the thread and restores some of the roundness to the D shaped connector. Sometimes the hose connectors are chrome plated plastic that will easily distort to match the harder mating connector and/or it may appear to be tight when it meets a damaged portion of thread where in fact on an undamaged thread you may have been able to get more turns to fully seat the washer.
As you say, my second attempted fix would be to double washer or at least remove the washer and turn it over.
alan_m snipped-for-privacy@admac.myzen.co.uk> wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:
Double up on washers or even tripple if room.
I had been assuming that the damage to the end face of the male thread (or perhaps within the female nut on the hose) was such that the sealing washer was not able to work. In that case, gluing the lot together with silicone or epoxy would work, provided you can fill all the leak paths and not block the flow path. However, it occurs to me that perhaps you have a failed plastic hose inside the metal spiral, perhaps where the hose flares out into a flange. In that case the solution is a complete new flexible hose. They are cheap.
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