SDS drill for general DIY?

High speed is perhaps useful, but not vital. Pretty well anything you'll come across in the home can still be drilled at 1000 rpm or less - it'll just take longer. But given that you can buy 2500 rpm mains drills for about a tenner...

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
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DeWalt 566 SDS - £120 ish, will go through anything stone/brick and has roto/hammer stop

Makita - 8443DWDE-3 18v Cordless £240 ish, will go through anything wood, fantastic at driving screws

You'll never regret it

Nick Brooks

Reply to
Nick Brooks

Absolutely. I didn't have the budget of the OP, but I went for.

  1. Cheap as chips SDS with chisel. (i.e. 30 quid)
  2. Cheap as chips mains hammer drill. (i.e. 20 quid)
  3. Good quality 12V battery drill. (i.e. 100 quid).

I frequently use all 3 drills at the same time. The SDS has the 7mm rawlplug bit, the mains has a 4.5mm clearance bit and the battery has the screwdriver bit. It saves endless bit swapping. Far better than using one drill and swapping all the bits between and then forgetting that you've selected hammer on the screwdriver and mashed the screw to pieces.

Ensure the battery drill has a rotor brake, reverse, touch sensitive trigger, torque control and one handed keyless chuck. These features are all essential.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

I think he knows that but can't imagine actually using it becasue it's such a great big effing thing to handle, and probably pretty unweildly with the gimickt replacement chuck stuckup front.

the point looks to be about using a 4kg SDS with small drills requiring possibly requiring relatively high precision. (he said ..trying to second guess the OP)

cheers

Daid

Reply to
David

You seem to have your heart set on these makes but if you really want decent speed control then the Bosch PBH2200RE SDS Drill £90 from Argos, has an electronic speed control, about 10 positions IIRC, This came in very handy to ensure a slow speed when drilling several ceramic tiles recently.

For drilling wood I suppose you'll be using one of the chuck convertors mentioned, in which case the drill is going to be pretty long and unweildy. Have you gone along to a local shop to have a play with one of these things or something simliar, try and get the chuck convertor on the drill and see how it feels as well.

As others have noted it's difficult to get a drill that will perform well for all tasks, and for wood you will be much better off with a mains powered standard drill or a good battery powered drill.

cheers

David

Reply to
David

You can have drills with separate chucks. I have the Bosch Multidrill and that has one chuck for SDS and a different one for conventional bits.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

On Thu, 1 Jul 2004 11:15:07 +0100, "David" strung together this:

Ah, that makes sense I suppose.

Reply to
Lurch

I expect to get an SDS, most likely from scerwfix or toolstation - big Q is which ones have rotostop AND will not let the chisel wander round (gradually rotate) as it hammers? Theres no info in the cats about this. I'm after a 2kg one.

Thanks, NT

Reply to
N. Thornton

I'm posting this from Google Groups so sorry if this is already been mentioned...

I've been digging around for other drills and have found two Bosch SDS drills, the green BHPH240RE which comes with some bits and an alternative concentional chuck for around £130, and the blue GBH2-24dfr which comes with only an alternative conventional chuck for £170. I know there's a debate about whether blue is better than green but I have no idea. Both have all the features I want for less than the Metabo I mentioned earlier (cheapest equivalent Metabo is over £200). Does anyone have a comments?

Thanks,

Ken

Reply to
Kooky45

I've just bought the Makita HR2450, you can lock the chisel. Just move the selector half way towards the hammer only setting (the white dot just visible in the Screwfix catalogue photo), rotate the chisel to your desired position and move the selector fully over to lock. It also has an interlock on the mode selector to stop it jumping from one mode to the other on it's own accord as I understand some of the cheaper models have been known to do.

Reply to
Mike Clarke

Ah but you've got an understanding wife ! :-) For some of us it's an either/or choice.

Reply to
G&M

Time for an 18volt cordless unit then :-)

Reply to
G&M

Lurch wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Begyer pardon - I understood the OP to be talking about the SDS kits that have a conventional chuck that fits into the SDS chuck and uses standard bits. You can also buy that sort of chuck

I was perhaps on my second tinny, which may explain me incoherence, or it may be simple senility.

I know that you believe you understand what you think I said

but

I am not sure you reslise that what you heasr is not what I meant

mike

Reply to
mike ring

You bet - she loves the Makita. Really likes the speed control on it.

Ahhh!

BTW, the DeWalt is all fixed, running like new. Took me about 15 mins. I reckon if I had to do it again I could do it in 5. Very nicely engineered machine.

Reply to
Grunff

Hi Nick,

What's the Makita like with the conventional chuck on the end? Does it feel loose until you put pressure on it? Also, is it any good for drilling into wood?

Thanks,

Ken

Reply to
Kooky45

Mine just has the SDS chuck and no extra adapter. I just use my conventional drill for wood.

Reply to
Mike Clarke

The spares for my angle grinder were even cheaper, only 6.95 for a complete kit :)

Reply to
Ian Stirling

Seems OK to me - some of the feel will depend on the quality of the SDS chuck you get. No doubt a decent one will "feel" better than the cheapest. (If yoo get the Makita from Lawson-HIS they have a deal running where you get a free chuck adaptor- not sure who makes the chuck though).

Only ever tried it with large bits (would use the cordless for most wood drilling) for which it is fine.

With the cost of cheap pistol mains drills it is a bit of a non question really. If the Makita does not drill wood in the way you want then splash out another tenner on a separate mains drill - a decent chuck adaptor would cost you more.

Reply to
John Rumm

:-)

I use crappy angle grinders too (for masonry work, keeping my good ones clean for metal work). They are useful, but pretty crap compared to good ones.

Reply to
Grunff

I've actually found that for some tools, the parts can be more valuable than the whole. Just try finding a small gearmotor for 1.99, when you can buy whole screwdrivers for that.

The first really cheap angle grinder that died (5 min operating time) yeilded a gearbox (4:1) that looks ideal to fit to my grinding machine to reduce the speed from a normal motor, as the gearmotor I was using died (crappy plastic gear)

Reply to
Ian Stirling

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