Removing euro cylinder

A neighbour's front door can't be locked(1) - the key goes in easily but won't turn. I have spare cylinders of the right size (not available from the sheds, TS, SF etc.) from when I changed my locks (aftter v. useful advice here). It's be nice to get the old lock out without damage to the door (uPVC). I could look at some videos of bumping and snapping but, knowing my luck, something would go wrong. With the handles removed there's plenty of lock on the inside to grip, if it does come to snapping. The locks aren't high quality and are about 27 years old, so not too secure.
(1) atm the outside handle is jammed horizontal with a wedge of cardboard so that it looks OK. The inside handle is in a position to allow the door to be opened in an emergency but not far enough in for the outside handle to operate.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Fri, 03 Aug 2018 22:40:15 +0100, PeterC wrote:

Doesn't this work?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9A915L_mlk

--
TOJ.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 03/08/2018 23:08, The Other John wrote:

That was my first thought then I realised if the lock wont turn he will be unable to line up the cam to extract it
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 4 Aug 2018 07:27:12 +0100, ss wrote:

Exactly - that's why I need another method.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 04/08/2018 08:02, PeterC wrote:

I would try lubricant/woggling/thumping etc you may just manage to unstick it. If all else fails I would drill out rather than snap it as drilling will only damage the lock, snapping can cause damage to doors and handles.
If an old lock it should drill easily enough. Video clip:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TInAnqJbtx8

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 04/08/2018 08:32, ss wrote:

Just IME of one cheap lock, snapping using large mole grips was very easy. Just grip and snap, not much force.
--
Cheers, Rob

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 4 Aug 2018 08:32:03 +0100, ss wrote:

Well, tried lube/waggling, no effect, so did the same to the lock and that was the same ;-) Tried snapping, but nobody had locking grips that were big enough. Tried using an over-long key and tapping it whilst trying to turn it - works on You Tube but not in Real Life. I've watched the vid. in the link above - thanks for that. Main comment: not sure about using a drill bit as a centre punch but if it works... Anyway, drilling next.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sunday, 5 August 2018 08:02:50 UTC+1, PeterC wrote:

probably a bad idea but I wonder if passing welder current through it for seconds might just free it.
NT
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 5 Aug 2018 03:39:14 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

That's a bit drastic! I'll try drilling first - when it's cooler. The sun is full on the glazed door for a lot of the day.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Would wiggleing the locking bar cause something to loosen up?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 05 Aug 2018 17:00:16 GMT, DerbyBorn wrote:

We've wiggled everything in all directions and no luck. I stopped one attack because the chap about to try it didn't realise that it would dammage the actuating mech. - probably deform the case. It's lucky that I've stripped, cleaned and lubed mine several times since '91, so I know how it works. It has been about 6 - 7 years since last done, I've just realised. My front door faces SW and gets rather a lot of weather so I like to look at it before there's a problem.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 5 Aug 2018 08:02:49 +0100, PeterC wrote:

OK, update: followed the video re. drilling. Started off in the centre, went well until the first pin then the bit was deflected to one side. Tried a cobalt bit - polished the pin! Although the locks were fitted in '91, so I expected them to be easy, it was a German company based in Lincoln (Stern Fenster), so possibly the locks were pretty good.
Cut off the lock as close to the door as I dare, using a hacksaw with the blade at 90 deg. to the frame - still wouldn't turn as one pin remained. As I was following the vid I'd tried to turn it with a screwdriver, then realised that with only one pin left almost any key would do it - and it did! Tried new lock, still wouldn't turn - shit! Took out the mech. and found that the bit what should have been operated by the handle to allow the lock to operate wasn't moving correctly. Closer look showed a small, square-section piece of black metal flopping around. So, a broken spring. Seems that a new mech. is the only way to fix it and that's about £44 :-(
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Worth it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/08/2018 20:10, DerbyBorn wrote:

Yes worth it but if time allows could you possibly get a replacement spring?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 12 Aug 2018 20:29:51 +0100, ss wrote:

Doubt it. The whole mech. is 'riveted' together and the 'rivets' are actually the shafts for all the moving bits. There's also the high potential for a multiple pinfuckit. As the whole thing is north of 6' long and rather oily/greasy I'd need to do it in the shed or outside (weather allowing - typical British summer, always raining!), so any flying bits would be lost.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@homecall.co.uk says...

You should be able to get the lock on it's own without the locking rods. Search for 'centre case' Good luck!
Cheers, Jim
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Mon, 13 Aug 2018 14:57:22 +0100, Jim White wrote:

Thanks for that - I'd never have guessed the term. Found a couple, but one was the same price as the whole thing and the other was a few quid cheaper but ex-VAT.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 12 Aug 2018 15:20:07 +0100, PeterC wrote:

Finally done! Having managed to remove the lock, as above, she finally settled for buying a new complete assembly. Also needed some keeps as 2 were for mushroom pegs and the new ones are all roller. Took some time to get roundtuit as she works some shifts. Today, cut the new assembly to length, had great fun with the keeps as the new ones are thicker, so had to place them where there was about 0.5 mm clearance. Several more holes of course, just managed to skew a couple of screws to avoid new holes close to old ones (one area had 6 holes already!). Repaired the handles on the other door. All now works properly, so now she needs another 2 keys per door. Whole lot cost £55.10 - I settled for £55 with 10p discount for cash. Phew!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

6mm drill at the bottom of the key slot, i.e. where round turning part and Euro-profile part meet. Drills out the pins. Insert screwdriver in mangle remains and turn. On a standard brass cylinder you will spend more time cleaning up the swarf and metal bits than drilling and opening.
Snapping might bend stuff you want to reuse?
Thomas Prufer
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 04 Aug 2018 10:42:24 +0200, Thomas Prufer wrote:

Well, I've considered drilling, snapping and bumping (in descending order of damage). A chap from a couple of doors down said AG! - he's a builder, so his idea of an AG might not be the same as ours. The lock is a cheap one and I've already supplied 2 locks of the same sort, complete with keys, so destroying the old one doesn't matter.
Off to look at vids.
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.