Removing euro cylinder

[PeterC]

A neighbour's front door can't be locked(1) - the key goes in easily but won't turn. I have spare cylinders of the right size (not available from the sheds, TS, SF etc.) from when I changed my locks (aftter v. useful advice here). It's be nice to get the old lock out without damage to the door (uPVC). I could look at some videos of bumping and snapping but, knowing my luck, something would go wrong. With the handles removed there's plenty of lock on the inside to grip, if it does come to snapping. The locks aren't high quality and are about 27 years old, so not too secure.

(1) atm the outside handle is jammed horizontal with a wedge of cardboard so that it looks OK. The inside handle is in a position to allow the door to be opened in an emergency but not far enough in for the outside handle to operate.

[The Other John]

Doesn't this work?

[ss]

That was my first thought then I realised if the lock wont turn he will be unable to line up the cam to extract it

[PeterC]

Exactly - that's why I need another method.

[ss]

I would try lubricant/woggling/thumping etc you may just manage to unstick it. If all else fails I would drill out rather than snap it as drilling will only damage the lock, snapping can cause damage to doors and handles.

If an old lock it should drill easily enough. Video clip:

[RJH]

Just IME of one cheap lock, snapping using large mole grips was very easy. Just grip and snap, not much force.

[Thomas Prufer]

6mm drill at the bottom of the key slot, i.e. where round turning part and Euro-profile part meet. Drills out the pins. Insert screwdriver in mangle remains and turn. On a standard brass cylinder you will spend more time cleaning up the swarf and metal bits than drilling and opening.

Snapping might bend stuff you want to reuse?

Thomas Prufer

[charles]

Are you, or is he, certain it's the right key?

can't you just remove the whole lock, once the handle shaft has been withdrawn?

[ss]

Its needs to have the cam lined up to remove it which he cant do as the lock wont turn.

[PeterC]

Well, I've considered drilling, snapping and bumping (in descending order of damage). A chap from a couple of doors down said AG! - he's a builder, so his idea of an AG might not be the same as ours. The lock is a cheap one and I've already supplied 2 locks of the same sort, complete with keys, so destroying the old one doesn't matter.

Off to look at vids.

[charles]

not on the ones I've met.

[FMurtz]

No it wont come out til the lock cylinder is removed,and if neither end will turn to align the cam someone clever or a locksmith is needed.

[PeterC]

Well, tried lube/waggling, no effect, so did the same to the lock and that was the same ;-) Tried snapping, but nobody had locking grips that were big enough. Tried using an over-long key and tapping it whilst trying to turn it - works on You Tube but not in Real Life. I've watched the vid. in the link above - thanks for that. Main comment: not sure about using a drill bit as a centre punch but if it works... Anyway, drilling next.

[tabbypurr]

probably a bad idea but I wonder if passing welder current through it for seconds might just free it.

NT

[PeterC]

That's a bit drastic! I'll try drilling first - when it's cooler. The sun is full on the glazed door for a lot of the day.

[DerbyBorn]

Would wiggleing the locking bar cause something to loosen up?

[Brian Reay]

Once you've removed the screw that goes in from the side, they normally slide out IF the lock operates and you can ensure the drive tab (the bit that actually protrudes from the cylinder as the key is turned) can be aligned with the body.

If yours is stuck, either the drive tab isn't aligned or the cylinder is corroded to the rest of the mechanism.

If it is corroded, a gentle(ish) tap should move it.

If the tap isn't lined up, brute force may damage the rest of the mechanism. I'd be tempted to drill and try to wriggle the drive tap, once the cylinder can be rotated.

[PeterC]

We've wiggled everything in all directions and no luck. I stopped one attack because the chap about to try it didn't realise that it would dammage the actuating mech. - probably deform the case. It's lucky that I've stripped, cleaned and lubed mine several times since '91, so I know how it works. It has been about 6 - 7 years since last done, I've just realised. My front door faces SW and gets rather a lot of weather so I like to look at it before there's a problem.

[PeterC]

OK, update: followed the video re. drilling. Started off in the centre, went well until the first pin then the bit was deflected to one side. Tried a cobalt bit - polished the pin! Although the locks were fitted in '91, so I expected them to be easy, it was a German company based in Lincoln (Stern Fenster), so possibly the locks were pretty good.

Cut off the lock as close to the door as I dare, using a hacksaw with the blade at 90 deg. to the frame - still wouldn't turn as one pin remained. As I was following the vid I'd tried to turn it with a screwdriver, then realised that with only one pin left almost any key would do it - and it did! Tried new lock, still wouldn't turn - shit! Took out the mech. and found that the bit what should have been operated by the handle to allow the lock to operate wasn't moving correctly. Closer look showed a small, square-section piece of black metal flopping around. So, a broken spring. Seems that a new mech. is the only way to fix it and that's about £44 :-(

[DerbyBorn]

Worth it.