Hi all,
We've just moved into a new office and the doors have euro locks with cylinders that protrude from either side. We want to change these locks but I'm not sure how to go about removing the cylinders. The locks won't come out of the door until the cylinder is removed.
Any help appreciated.
Oh, we don't have any of the keys.
Cheers, Richard
Single screw on the edge of the door, remove.
Ordinarily, you would insert a key and turn about 10 degrees after having removed the long M5 screw from the lockplate that holds the cylinder in (at ninety degrees to the axis of the key). Sometimes there is a decorative plate over the lockplate that hides this screw. Not having the key, you may be lucky to 'jiggle' or force the cylinder out once the screw is undone, otherwise you are into drilling the whole lot out.....
Basically, you undo the mounting screw (accessed from the door edge) and withdraw the cylinder. Most require you to insert the key and rotate 30 degrees or so before you slide. Some don't. If you don't have the keys, and they do require rotation, you should get a locksmith out unless you know someone who can pick locks.
It is normal when renting or buying property for the keys to be supplied!
Christian.
I know - its a long story. Basically we got very involved in the refurbishment of the office to the degree that we saved a lot of money doing some bits ourselves.
Thanks to you and everyone who replied - I have managed to get the cylinders out which was easy as they were the type that have a thumb turn at one side so you don't need the key.
I think we'll probably just get new cylinders for them - are all "euro" cylinders totally compatible or is there anything to watch out for? Toolstation have them pretty cheap.
Only thing to watch out for is the physical length each side of the centre of the cylinder (ie/ thickness of door). Screwfix sell suites of 4 (on the same key) which is very useful.
There is an amazing variety in lengths. They are described using two numbers, indicating the length from the middle of the centre lug to the edge. i.e. 35/35 for a typical symmetrical one or 30/50 for assymetric. If you want to stick with thumb turn, then add a 'T' to the beginning and the first dimension is for the thumb side.
Measure your existing ones to get it right. If you get one too long, it reduces security, so get the size right.
Sometimes you see them described with measurements from the edge of the lug, rather than the middle. So a 30/50 would become 25/10/45.
Christian.
Not sure if that would be useful in this scenario (although I can see the benefits in some circumstances). I like the idea of master keys and things like that but they seem to come at a cost and I only need a few so I'll not bother.
Out of interest, does anyone know what the fire/building regs are with regards to having thumb locks on the interior of doors? I will probably replace them with ones that do have thumb locks, but was just wondering if this was strictly necessary.
Yes, they are interchangeable, requiring only a match for length (as others have mentioned). Zone cylinders are better than average for the money:
If you are looking at security and restricted access, you can get euro cylinders in suites so that some keys are 'access all' and others can only access some rooms. The suite I work with is made by ASSA and there are 5 levels, A to E and locks and keys can be made to any combination of theses levels
Malcolm
get a EVVA 3KS. £70 each and unpickable!
marvelous wrote: ... snipped
"Bumping" seems to be more of a risk than picking - are they un-"bumpable"?
Dave
Some makes have a little cushion/spacers that falls off when being fitted. I vaguely remember having major difficulties but forget exactly how bad and what the mechanics were. It was an horrendous botch though.
I think the OP will be better off taking the locks to a locksmith and seeing if the keys can be made and if the sets can be adjusted to one master key.
I would change the locks if I thought the keys were still in nefarious hands they don't sound like they might be well worn.
And I would get rid of the safety openers if there was a danger of criminals hiding in store rooms but no danger of staff being put at risk of stranding.
Yes, one of the few.
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