Now I've located that in the manual, I'll try tomorrow to see whether it works. The manual also talks about having to register new tyre pressure warning valves. All this may or may not work, as I don't know whether the KwikFit man transferred the old ones or not. What he did say was that the system would reset itself as I drove along. What a palaver.
That was on a car tyre. 60 strokes is slightly less than theoretically expected, for 30 to 38 psi.
Pump stroke volume 0.317 litre, tyre volume 40 litre.
So are you saying everyone suffers such with their TPMS? That what you experience is 'normal'?
I don't. You haven't really got the hang of this human stuff have you? ;-(
That's not bad.
Because you are old or just unfamiliar / un prepared for such things?
I am, as according to my AA Gold Card I have been a member for 30 years so keep reasonably up-to-date with their services.
'Better than you' you mean ... ?
Never?
Let's see ...
And we are back to your lack of understanding of humans again. Would it have been clearer to you if I have said 'one' instead of you above?
And do you never drive your bosses car (I call mine 'my Wife' and we are equals)?
Ok ... ?
I did, well done on that at least. ;-)
'Evidently' because they are not the right set for your current vehicle or without the spattering of tools I mentioned you wouldn't be able to change them (any of them?) or that some are difficult to change at the side of the road (like having to take the front inner-arch out to access the headlamp bulbs)? Luckily I drive a sensible car that evidently allows you to change the headlights in situ and the rear lights with a cross-head-screwdriver, the one on the Leatherman I always have with me works very well.
I do ... incidentally, we (humans) also drink water, as do the dogs.
Excellent. Let's hope you don't gain a leak (like a failing oil pressure switch) or yours might end up rattling more than mine. Oh no, you would just call Green Flag out and get them to add some oil for you eh ... after ignoring the warning lights for a couple of months ... ;-)
There have been several instances where I could have called the AA out but didn't because I fixed the problem myself. The first I can remember was on my nearly new (Company) Sierra 2L GL that had a stuck auto-choke. I did ring the AA but I'd fixed it long before they were even close. The last when the wife was forced against the kerb by an oncoming car (who should have stopped as the obstruction was their side) and damaged the tyre (sidewall). She called me [1] and I popped up and had replaced the wheel before the AA would have been there.
I did those and others because I don't want to burden the service with things that I can do myself and consider that I (we) should do things like changing my own wheel and maintaining oil and water levels in the event of an issue.
Oops ... I bet you feel even sillier now *you* have faceplanted eh? Best re-set that killfile of yours, you probably don't want to do that too often as it probably stings? ;-(
Cheers, T i m
[1] She could well have changed the wheel herself, she built the kitcar with me but that was 30 years ago and her arthritis would make such work quite painful now.
Never had to do that, but then I know how to drive.
Most are pre set at the pressure you want and switch off (and chime) once that pressure is reached so you don't need to see them from a distance (or at all other than when you are in front of it setting it etc).
Haven't you been outdoors before now?
Cheers, T i m
non-scratch pan scourer.
Yep, had one done in the last month or so. Inside of tyre around the hole and the hole itself are abraded so that the "rubber solution" goop spread onto the mushroom like patch and plug forms a good bond.
I think the repairable zone is the centre 2/3 of the tread, anywhere else is new tyre time.
tyres as
There are basically two tyre pressure warning systems. One uses special (and expensive) valves inside each tyre that actually measure the pressure and radio link it to the cars electonics. Posh electronics enables you to call up the pressure in every wheel, inc spare on the dash as well as warning of low pressure. Less posh just tells you which wheel is low. These don't need reseting after a low presure warning but if a valve module is changed the car needs to told, to register the new module. If your valve stems are metal and bolted to the rim you have this system.
Another system piggy backs on the ABS sensors and if a wheel starts to rotate consistently faster than the others in means it's lost a bit of pressure. These have normal rubber valves and the system needs a reset when all the tyres are at the correct pressure. So the car "knows" what is normal.
I'd not trust what a Qwickfit fitter said or that the pressures they'd set any tyre to was correct. I think the only time any garage from local to main dealer via specialist has ever returned a car with the tyre pressures correct when they have asked me what they should be. OK the book pressures aren't right (according to tyre wear pattern) but they have never come back at book pressure either...
miles BF
Current Veredstien Wintrac Extreme (a real "winter" tyre) are at 26k with about 1mm to go before the wear bars. They seem to wear at about
5k/mm. Real winter tyres are supposed to wear quickly in the summer, can't say I've noticed. They were fitted Jan 18 so have more or less done two summers and 1 1/2 winters.These are not keen above 60 mph in *torrential* rain and won't be as good as new ones on snow, though still way better than yer average tyre... I'll be changing them in the next few thousand miles, they might get to 30k.
For a given depth of tread, obviously a greater circumference equates to better miles of wear. Same amount of lost rubber, just more to start with...
Also, softer and more grippy tyres wear faster.
Profile has little to do with it
Bit late to RTFM. Interesting news item yesterday about parents not potty training their shitbags before school age...
Is the TPMS the type with actual pressure measuring transponders within the wheels, or that looks for variations of wheel speed via the ABS sensors?
Even if a gauge is not absolutely accurate, I'd expect the relative readings to be repeatable
Once my TPMS light comes on (it's never done so in error) and I've adjusted the pressures, I have to tell in through the dashboard that I've done so.
+1
even after telling them what the car manufacturer specified pressures are, they tend to go by their grubby tyre manufacturer crib sheet on the wall.
Remember that tyre pressures are a function of the tyre as well as the car.
Mine have only registered a low pressure once, when the tyre was inflated and the car driven a very short distance, it reset.
You only need to register a new sensor if you replace one.
From memory, on mine you can tinker with the settings but I leave that to those arrogant enough to think they know better than the car designers.
True, but then the manual is 568 pages long. But if you really insist, I'll make it my constant bed-time reading.
Mmm. I had a couple of conversations with the local Toyota Service Dept last winter about the light. No mention of needing to reset it or re-register the sensors.
Not 100psi but some of the space saver tyres are pumped up to twice that of the normal size road tyre. I no longer have a car with a small spare but I seem to recall that it was around 65psi. I doubt if many people check the pressure in the spare and it sits in the boot unloved for years until its required.
Tyre pressure also changes with temperature by around 1 psi for a 5.5C temperature change. Checking at home before driving and getting a value and then checking later after driving may show a difference as the tyre is hotter.
Did Kwik fit refit the sensors to the valve stems? Are the batteries in all 4 sensors still good?
Often you have to reset the sensors for your new pressures. On my car it's a menu item where the new/current pressures are recorded/stored in that car's computer for future comparison(s).
There are also calibration routines to ensure that all 4 sensors are working. Google for your car make and for tyre pressure sensor calibration.
Manufactures tend not to fit pressure sensors to spare tyres so if you have one and have fitted it to your car than the warning may always be on.
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