I have a question about mounting and balancing tires at home that didn't
come up when I was researching this problem. If you have never mounted or
balanced your own passenger-car tires, then you won't know the answers
(most likely) but if you have, you'll know because you must have solved
I have the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh Manual Tire Changer HF item #62317
which is mounted in concrete so that it is stable.
That tire changer comes with a "bead breaker" but the bead is just not
breaking when I used it today!
I also bought a couple of Harbor Freight item #61603 Pittsburgh 24 in.
General Purpose Tire Irons.
The problem is that the harbor freight tire changer bead breaker just seems
to slip off when following the instructions.
I would be glad to use the the Harbor Freight item #67403 Tire Bead Breaker
with Swan Neck:
But it doesn't come with instructions.
Have you used these goose-neck bead breakers on passenger tires?
Which way does the goose-neck go?
a. It can't fit under the rim with the finger pointing up, and,
b. It can't fit under the bead with the finger pointing down.
So how did you use this bead breaker anyway?
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 18:19:51 -0600, Terry Coombs advised:
I appreciate that you're staying on topic and trying to answer the question
of how to break the bead using the two bead breaker tools I pictured (and I
appreciate that you didn't give me useless redneck method jokes).
I assume you're talking about the red tire breaker (and not the black one),
but I'm not sure what you mean by "moving the top of the vertical piece".
Are you saying that the red double-arm vertical element should be as
straight up and down as possible when I'm pressing down on the red lever
handle (that is out of the picture at top)?
I don't know if I can do that because the tire can get no closer to the
vertical red tube as it is now since it *touches* the vertical red tube.
Or, do you want me to move the tire in the opposite direction, which is
*away* from the vertical tube?
I appreciate your advice - but I'm just trying to understand it because we
have a terminology issue where I don't know the names for the parts of that
red bead breaker contraption.
On Tue, 13 Dec 2016 00:35:28 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron
Move the breaker shoe part in to the first hole on the handle so
the shoe pushes out and down when you lean on the handle - as shown in
the 'tubes I referenced. The inner part of the rim needs to be against
the stop on the foot of the changer.
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 20:09:56 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org advised:
Oh. I didn't even realize, until you mentioned that, that there are holes
in the handle where we can move the breaker shovel further to the center of
the wheel or further away from the center of the wheel.
Too bad, because I don't have the SUV (I only have one spare tire right
now) as I'm doing this for a relative.
Last night, I destroyed the tire changer bead-breaking arm:
It bent like it was made out of butter.
I may have to head back to Harbor Freight for this one:
On Thu, 15 Dec 2016 16:48:05 -0500, Tekkie? advised:
I'm going to be nice, as per the suggestion from Clare.
To answer your question, I have solved *all* the problems where I
appreciate the helpful advice from everyone.
In particular, Clare and a few others were very helpful, as they actually
had the experience.
This question was never going to be answered by people who have never done
the job themselves with home equipment anyway.
You must have missed the summary (and the summary of the summary, and a few
summaries after that), so I'll just point you to the summary of the tire
bead problem so you can read it yourself, since you're interested in the
You see, I'm an excellent Usenet poster who gives back to the team by
summarizing the thread in a post to the original so that others can find it
quickly and easily in the future.
I call BS on you as I too have done what Clare has. I don't like your polite
crap. Be a man. You will also note I have posted several replies to you that
went unacknowledged. I still think you are a troll but am trying to work
with you. Clare has given you good advice and you ignore it with your
hypothetical musings. Clare has even apologized to the group for a minor mis
posting. Take your pompous attitude and learn. I thought he was going into
defib with some of your postings.
I am curious as to what is your profession?
What do you do that benefits the world around you?
On Mon, 19 Dec 2016 16:11:13 -0500, Tekkie? advised:
I just saw these. Sorry about that.
Thanks for all the advice because I did six tires so far, where the
60-series car tires are so easy as not to count.
I have one more tire to do, but the nail is kind of near the edge, so, I'm
going to have to figure out WHY they say not to patch near the edge.
Is it that the plug patch won't hold due to flexing?
Or that the fear is that the belts are damaged at a critical spot?
On Tuesday, December 13, 2016 at 12:40:57 PM UTC-6, Frank Baron wrote:
I have both of them. They are both weak. As with any Chinese tool
you usually need to strengthen or otherwise improve what you get.
So the general rule is to use them gently with caution. However
it is probably cheaper to improve them than to buy the vastly more
expensive industrial/professional-grade tools. Youtube can be
helpful as people will show you what they did to destroy or improve
various cheap tools.
On Wed, 21 Dec 2016 10:44:14 -0800 (PST), Davej advised:
Thank you Davej for that advice which I agree with:
a. The HF bead-breaking tools suck, but,
b. Fixing the HF tools is cheaper than buying a better tool
For example, on the purpose-built HF bead breaker, *all* the wheels I did
(15 and 16 inches in diameter) were too big for the base. You'd think the
manufacturer would know how big a tire is. Luckily, adding this board
"extended" the base sufficiently to do 15 and 15 inch wheels:
What sucks about the tire-changing tool bead-breaker attachment is:
a. The bead-breaker arms are too weak (and bend like a pretzel)
b. The clevis pins (thanks Clare) are far too sloppy (replace with bolts)
c. The bead breaker arc is far too small (about 1/2 to 1/4 of what you need
d. The tire iron twists out of your hands (use a vise grip to prevent that)
e. The tire iron is too soft so it bends when used as a lever (use pipe)
f. The base *must* be bolted down for SUV tires which require turning force
g. The red tire iron flat tip bends like rubber on the tougher tires!
HF Pittsburgh Bead Breaker, Harbor Freight item #92961
What sucks about the standalone bead breaker tool is:
a. The base is far too short for big tires
b. The base has no attachment holes for securing to concrete or pallets
c. The lever action isn't all that powerful (but it's strong enough)
HF Pittsburgh Manual Tire Changer, Harbor Freight item #62317
However, both can be made to work:
But both bent horribly in the wheels and tires that I did.
For example, I just removed & patched-plugged these five 15-inch 75-series
SUV tires and 16-inch 55-series sedan tires last night:
The tire-changer bead breaker isn't useful for tough tires, but it worked
on the easier tires. The problem with the tire changer is that the toughest
tire of the 5 defeated it, and *still* isn't on the wheel, even after
bending the tire iron (which is made of too-soft metal for hard tires):
I can't for the life of me figure out why a sister tire went on the same
size rim, but this one still won't go on no matter what I try.
I was going to say that I want to do it the "right" way at home.
I know all the redneck methods, so I don't really want them.
I know about the trailer hitch jack method, and the driving over it method
and the use the car as a lever method, etc.
But I just want to use the tire breaker because it is *designed* for the
If you've never broken the bead of a passenger tire with a tire breaker you
won't be able to help because this is the kind of question that takes
someone who has actually done it.
Jokes about going to the tire changing shop are also out of place in this
thread (but someone will think he's funny by mentioning that).
I just am asking for an answer from someone who knows the answer.
Nothing more or less than that.
I don't mean to be rude, but I am trying to use the tire breaker and not
some redneck method.
I'm just asking how.
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 19:04:13 -0600, Dean Hoffman advised:
Of course I've looked on youtube.
There were plenty of mounting videos, for example, but they mostly just
showed you the end result, and none of the practical stuff that I learned
Also, there are lots (and lots) of redneck methods for breaking the bead,
and a few on the HF tool.
The ones on the HF tool just showed the obvious, which is you press down
and that's it. Some even ran into the same problem I ran into which is that
the HF tool is made out of butter.
I removed the bent section and will straighten it and try again:
But it may be that I actually will need to buy this tool from HF:
I also picked up some new tire valves which will be interesting to put in
since I have never done it before:
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