Questions which came up only AFTER I drilled a hole in concrete

Dec 12, 2016 78 Replies

I'd like to ask basic questions about drilling these holes in concrete:

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I try to research new tasks before I do them but unexpected questions always seem to arise when I actually do stuff such as when I drilled concrete for the first time in order to mount a harbor freight tire-changing machine onto my backyard sidewalk.

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The 1/2-inch wide bit I bought was in a 6-pack at Harbor Freight item #62791 "Warrior 8-inch SDS Masonry Bit Set" with "shank style SDS" and the drill I bought is the Harbor Freight item #62383 "Chicago 1/2-inch Variable Speed Reversible Hammer Drill", but it says nothing of the "shank style".

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But no matter how many times I cinched down the chuck evenly along the three keys, the bit was wobbly in the chuck hole.

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So my first question is whether I bought the right kind of bits because the bits have 2 grooves in them while the chucks have 3 keys:

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The second question is whether we're supposed to use water when drilling through concrete. It didn't seem to matter to the drilling, which was like drilling into butter anyway (so maybe my concrete sucks)?

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The third question is how deep is most backyard sidewalk concrete? I had to drill a 1/2-inch wide 1-5/8ths-inch deep hole for the 3/8" drop-in anchors:

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But when I drilled the holes, I realized the soft concrete was only about that thick (so the bottom of the 1-5/8ths-inch hole was in soft small pebbly gravel!

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Is it normal for concrete to be poured so thinly?

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One mistake I made was to buy 3-inch long 3/8ths-inch hardware store (Home Depot) bolts (which are about 1/4 inch too long) but Home Depot doesn't sell quarter-inch increments), one of which snapped off below ground as I was screwing it in to the anchor bolt (which was set with the proper set tool).

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I suspect I should have gotten stainless steel bolts but Home Depot doesn't sell them. Where would you get four 2/3/4-inch 3/8-inch stainless steel bolts?


SDS drills are for certain hammer drills, not a regular chuck. Sorry, but you have a tool mismatch. You may get your holes don, but not very well compared to using the right drill.

On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 17:31:06 -0500, Ed Pawlowski advised:

I thought something was out of whack but those are the bits the Harbor Freight personnel said to buy.

I wonder if I can return a slightly used 1/2-inch drill bit?

On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 15:41:13 -0800, Oren advised:

Thanks. Too bad I didn't ask you first, but now I have the bits and the drill, neither of which I can use.

Since I already have a 1/2-inch drill, what good is a "hammer drill" other than drilling concrete?

Does it have a second use?

Hammer drills can be used to drill holes in lots of "hard stuff". I use min e for drilling through landscape timbers, 4x4's, etc. I lay landscape timbers in a runnin g bond pattern. With a 16? long 3/8? bit I drill through 2 at once and then spike them in place. The hammer drill just pounds right through them even if they are wet.

I just used my hammer drill yesterday to drill a 3/4" hole 6" deep into the trunk of my fresh cut Christmas tree for my spiked stand.

On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 16:04:56 -0800, Oren advised:

What doesn't matter is that I was fooled (because it's over). I doubt HF will take either their drill or their bits back (I wouldn't blame them since I used them once).

However, now that I know the bits are no good for a normal chuck, I can just throw them out. But I don't want to throw out the hammer drill.

Since I never needed a hammer drill in 45 years I'm just wondering now what does a hammer drill do that I might need (knowing that drilling in concrete is one of those things but I don't need to drill in concrete again).

Does the hammer drill have any use around your house ?

Is there a Fastenal near you? Grainger?

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On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 16:22:17 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 advised:

I can imagine a fresh-cut xmas tree being sappy, which is sticky, even though it's soft wood. So if the hammer drill works for railroad tie and xmas trees, maybe I can find a use for it after all!

On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 16:35:44 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 advised:

Thanks for that link to Fastenal. It looks like they also don't have the 2-3/4-inch 3/8ths inch bolt. They just have the 2-1/2 and 3 inch just like Home Depot did, only the Fastenol bolts are stainless steel.

Pricey though, at almost nine dollars each which is almost as much as the entire bead breaker cost just for the four bolts to bolt it down. :(

3/8"-16 x 2-1/2" ASTM A193 Grade B8 Stainless Steel Heavy Hex Cap Screw Fastenol SKU: 0175831 (Wholesale price $8.64 each).

Interesting difference in price though:

3/8"-16 x 3" ASTM A193 Grade B8 Stainless Steel Heavy Hex Cap Screw Fastenol SKU: 0175833 Online price $1.20 each

I've used mine a few times for regular drilling with the hammer function turned off - can't remember why, since I have other drills. It's a light duty 1/2" Craftsman - 40-60 bucks. It's a must have for drilling holes in my basement walls, which are very hard concrete. I put ran some 3" PVC pipe through concrete block for my sump pumps this summer. My son had my hammer drill so my SIL dropped off his kit for me to use. He's an electrical contractor. A big Milwaukee, which also has a hammer only function which I used to chisel away the remainder after drilling out a 2" hole with his biggest hole saw bit. Probably save me hours over using mine. But that 3" hole was a one time deal. Your tool is simply for light duty concrete drilling. Just appreciate it for that use.

I use mine in non-hammer mode with my Kreg jig. It's my most powerful drill and it drills the cleanest pocket holes.

3" bolts and a hacksaw. Thread a nut on first to straighten the threads out when you remove it or you can dress them with a file so they start.

Does it have a lever to lock out the hammer clutch and turn it into a regular drill? Other than that drilling masonry is its only claim to fame.

Really? I guess I better stop using for the other things I mentioned before.

When you have a hammer drill, everything looks like a piece of masonry. Use it for whatever you want. Whether it's any more efficient for drilling railroad tie than a conventional drill with a decent bit is another question.

I have a hammer. I also have a screwdriver. Not everything looks like a nail.

I have a hammer drill. I also have a standard drill. Not everything looks like masonry.

In my experience with various materials, the answer is yes.

Of course; namely, drilling holes in wood, steel, aluminum, whatever. Just take it off of "hammer".

No

Here

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The Home Depot near me has all sorts of stainless stell hardware. So does Ace Hardware.

Check Amazon, they have the bet prices on stainless hardware I have found anywhere. See:

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