Proper "vegatable soap" tire lube does not allow the tire to slip on the rim under accelleration or braking after it dries, unlike some normal "dish soaps" A proper bead lubricant like "RuGlyde" is most definitely recommended .
Using the wrong soap increases the likelihood you will need to re-balance the tire several times over it's lifespan.
Brazing and silver soldering uses a flux to take the place of that sheild gas. Propane or MAPP are fine for soldering and brazing. TERRIBLE foir welding. Kinda like Mig welding with no gas and not using flux core wire.
They may LOOK good, but I'm not sure I'd trust them - see quote from Hobart site below.
From Hobartwelders.com site: IT, makes no difference what the person at the LWS, Fleabay WS, or your neighborhood "Legend in their own Mind" tells you, There is no possible way to get a good weld (ferrous) with any thing other than ACETYLENE!
The only reason you can not weld with any fuel gas other then "ACETYLENE" is you can not achieve a "TRUE" neutral flame. Which means you are adding contamination with slightly oxidizing or carburizing flames.
The oxidizing flame, removes carbon form the weld pool changing the metallurgy of the weld. It converts the carbon to carbon dioxide.
The carburizing flame, adds carbon to the weld pool and will change the metallurgy of the weld pool adversely.
Welding means only, joining ferrous metals!
You can braze,solder,silver braze(miss called silver soldering), heat for bending etc and cutting.
As to hoses: Use only Grade T hose with MAPP,PROPANE PROPYLENE fuel gases.
Use GRADE R,RM,OR T hose with Acetylene.
The make up of the hoses are different and react to the make up of the gases differently.
The biggest differences in the tips is the number, sizes and arrangement of the holes in it. Propane/natural gas tips have smaller and more of them.
The other difference is with an acetylene/oxy flame the hottest part is the inner cone of the flame.
The propane/oxy flame is the outer skirt,(outside skirt of the flame)
Other than that it is only a matter of ease of getting the gases. to refill when the cylinders are empty, or what you have learned on, or have used in the past.
So other than taking a little longer to hit the temperature, If you aren't going to gas weld ferrous materials. It shouldn't be a problem.
I guess I had better go out and buy a new 3" x 24' drive shaft for my wind powered well water pump. I welded it using oxy/propane three years ago (after it sheared), it has pumped untold thousands of gallons since then, but, based upon your research, my weld must be garbage and will fail at any moment......
Tell you what, you are right, you win. Oxy/Propane is garbage for welding regardless of my direct, first hand experience.
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...
Let me know when you pull the pin. I will too. I was worried about you, I thought he hit a nerve... He's circulating the drain. Maybe when he finds all the rust when he used Dawn...
On Mon, 12 Dec 2016 23:45:12 +0000 (UTC), Frank Baron advised:
I finally broke down and bought the HF Pittsburgh Bead Breaker, Harbor Freight item 92961. (
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I used that harbor freight bead breaker to break the beads on four difficult steel-rim wheels with Optimo P235/75R15 108T thick-sidewall tires seemingly glued on.
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After using it successfully (not without a few curses), I conclude the HF standalone bead breaker sucks but it sucks differently than the bead breaker attachment on the Harbor Freight tire changing tool.
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The HF tire changing tool bead breaker is fine for the three passenger tires I've done now, but it's far too weak (puny would be more apropos) for the strong sidewall SUV tires.
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Luckily (as Clare kindly warned me), all of what sucks in both tools can be "fixed" if you know ahead of time what to modify (as Clare has kindly shown us):
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What sucks about the tire-changing tool bead-breaker attachment is: a. The bead-breaker arms are too weak (and bend like a pretzel) b. The clevis pins (thanks Clare) are far too sloppy (replace with bolts) c. The bead breaker arc is far too small (about 1/2 to 1/4 of what you need d. The tire iron twists out of your hands (use a vise grip to prevent that) e. The tire iron is too soft so it bends when used as a lever (use pipe) f. The base *must* be bolted down for SUV tires which require turning force HF Pittsburgh Bead Breaker, Harbor Freight item #92961
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What sucks about the standalone bead breaker tool is: a. The base is far too short for big tires b. The base has no attachment holes for securing to concrete or pallets c. The lever action isn't all that powerful (but it's strong enough) HF Pittsburgh Manual Tire Changer, Harbor Freight item #62317
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Here is the first method that I used as an expediency to temporarily "extend" the base of the HF bead breaking tool (it was a steel shelf from a Costco shelf rack):
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Here is the second method that I used to extend the base (it's just a board of wood that I had lying around):
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I changed multiple car tires easily with both tools, but SUV 108T P235/75 tires stressed both tools to the max - where - without the emergency modifications above - I don't think you can do the job (I couldn't).
On Sat, 17 Dec 2016 00:44:17 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca advised:
Thank you for your advice not to use the wrong soap, as the tire may slip on the rim, which would making all balancing off.
Here is the soap I used:
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I did wash it off afterward (as I had also painted the rims black).
Interestingly, when I gave the SUV back to the owner, she didn't even notice that the four rims went from silver to black!
Because of time constraints (it's not my car, it's that of a relative), I wasn't able to test drive at speed (no highway nearby and I only had the vehicle from about 10pm to dawn). So I told her to tell me if it vibrates on the highway.
I accidentally left the PSI at my test pressure of 45psi (instead of 32psi) but I don't think she'll even notice but I ask you if it matters?
Does it matter?
She drives like a little old lady, about 20 highway miles a day, and about
30 miles a day of mountain twisting single-lane but very steep (9% grade) roads.
I'm gonna patch some tires today, for example but they will be so easy that they don't count (since they are normal passenger car tires at 60 series alloy wheels).
On Fri, 16 Dec 2016 16:18:44 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca advised:
I'm not gonna shoot down your reference but I will say that it isn't a tire manufacturer test result.
It's nothing more than a shootout between 3 tires, which was the best you can find (which was my whole point).
It's not your fault (nor mine) that there just isn't any reliable information about tires when you want to compare brand A to brand B to brand C.
There just isn't. The best you can do is find a shootout, and, if you're (extremely) lucky, they'll have tested exactly the brands you're comparing on the vehicle you're comparing on driven the way you drive.
The liklihood of that is nil, by the way, nor nearly so, which was my point. So I *knew* you wouldn't come up with those super secret manufacturer's tests, and that's OK because nobody can.
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