We had a lever-operated kitchen kitchen sink mixer tap fitted about four
years ago - in the past few months it's started dripping.
It has quarter-turn levers - I'm guessing that these operate ceramic valves?
If so - does anybody have experience of obtaining replacement valves,
and how are they fitted. I'm expecting that the lever is held on by a
screw, under the end-cover - but how do you get the conical cover off
without damaging the chrome?
Anybody been there & done that, successfully?
Photo of what looks to be the same beast here -
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
I notice that the Amazon item carries a 15-year guarantee - "(excluding
working and serviceable parts, abuse or neglect)" - we have pumped
well-water supply - so it's quite possible that some grit as found its
way into the valve...
On Wed, 27 Dec 2017 21:48:29 +0000, Adrian Brentnall
You'll probably find what you want here
https://www.tapmagician.co.uk/TMDefault.aspx????? or more
specifically, here https://www.tapmagician.co.uk/TMDefault.aspx?400
I had/have a similar problem. You need to get the size of the alumina
disc inserts specific to your tap, which means going through the
dismantling process twice, once to measure the discs and the second to
change them. Don't forget to turn the water off first. The images on
that web site give you an idea as to how they come apart. Remove the
lever by removing the plastic cap on top of the tap, to expose the
screw which you undo and then lift or knock/tap off the lever upwards.
You can then unscrew the body from the tap fitting, pull out the
coloured (red or blue) washer at the bottom and then remove the
alumina disc inserts. Not difficult.
The only problem I had was that I couldn't find an exact match for my
discs. So I swapped over the hot and cold discs, reassembled the whole
thing and for a while the tap stopped dripping, although I see it's
recently started again.
If you live in a hard water area, then deposits of lime may have built
up on the discs. Soaking them overnight in vinegar may be all that's
Failing all that, simply buy a whole new pair of cartridges.
Ah - you've been there too <g>.
I don't think I want to get down to 'component level' one the repair /
replacement - but I suppose it's good to know it's possible.
Seems that a pair of replacement cartridges will set me back UKP 30,
while Amazon will sell me a complete new (shiny!) tap for only €25 more
- so I'm tempted just to drop a new one in....
I've changed hundreds of 'old-fashioned' tap washers in the past - but
this is the first time I've needed to fiddle with one of the
quarter-turn jobbies... hence the reason for asking.
Yes - very handy, thanks.
Looks like €30 plus p&p for a pair of valves.
The complete tap cost about €130, four years ago, and I see that the
same tap unit is available brand new on Amazon for UKP 54....
so it may make more sense to replace the whole tap.
Take off the H/C cap - should unscrew. Then remove the screw and the
lever should come off. The conical trims ought not be done up that tight
- you may find you can undo by hand or with a "gripper" glove. If you
need to use grips (water pump pliers etc), then shims of leather or a
short length of rubber hose (plumbers merchant - they sell it for
connections to manometers and gas pressure meters) make good grippy
You may find just unscrewing the valve, and pulling the disks out f the
end of it (you normally need to prise off a retaining C clip on the
shaft), will let you clean them - often that is enough if they are still
nice and smooth. A descale, and re-lube with silicone grease can also help.
Yup, they don't like grit... I fitted a good quality new mixer a coupe
of days back, and managed to get some debris in there that caused it to
leak on about the third use (probably some solder residue, or copper
fragments etc). The dismantle and rub discs between fingers procedure
Ah - having said that I'm considering replacing the whole thing, you've
now appealed to the skinflint in me! <g>
Trouble is, it's the Kitchen Tap - so any prolonged faffing about with
it isn't likely to be popular....
Ah - that's worth knowing. 'Spose I could try, it'd be a nice
'eco-friendly' fix if it was something that simple..
Its also only a 10 minute job, so worth a punt!
 or at least would be, if having prised the clip off, it did not drop
to the floor, roll, and then fall with a clink into a large exposed
section of floor void that I have open for pipe wrangling...
Ten mins later hunting about in all the crap and sawdust that
accumulates under floors, to find it sitting there straddling an old
discarded floor board nail like a rather good shot in horse shoe hurling!
I'm glad it's not just me! <g>
I might dig out my strap wrench (or similar) and give it a go.
After all - it'll take another week before online folks are back at
work, and then it'll be another week before the new item gets to Ireland
from the UK..... - so it's probably worth a punt.
Step one - see if the covers can be removed - they've been made
helpfully conical, so getting a decent grip on them will be a challenge!
On Thu, 28 Dec 2017 18:03:02 +0000, Adrian Brentnall
Another tip, as well as turning off the water, put the plug in the
hole (saves having to crawl about under the sink uncoupling the waste
trap, to recover that little screw with the totally unique thread and
As Peter Parry would probably point out, it's at this point you discover
that the gate valve that shuts off the supply from the hot tank to the
kitchen tap is seized solid.
You decide to be brave and whip out the old one and screw in the new
using an old towel to stop the hot water splashing around but you cross
thread the new one in the process.
By this time hot water at 60 Centigrade has made it to the tap and you
cannot screw or unscrew the new ceramic unit, while hot water is
pissing everywhere all around you .....
Nope - smooth as a smooth thing, and tapered with it.
The 'hot' once loosened off with a grippy garden glove - the cold one
won't budge (so far).
Gave it a bit of limescale remover, might whip the lever off and see if
that give me better access...
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