Why is everyone suggesting a 'plug-and-socket' arrangment for a repair?
When someone (cough) did mine, I repaired it with something along these
On the surface a brilliant idea, precisely what I did when I cut through
the wire on mine.
However a plug and socket arrangement is a nightmare, the slightest tug,
and I do mean slightest, my trimmers stop working and I have to walk a
modest way to replug them together again. In the end they're strung
So I'm not sure if I recommend any inline plug and socket that comes
apart unless they do so getting close to the cable breaking strength!!
In the days when I used a hedge trimmer I twisted the leads together
(like the first half of a reef knot) before connecting them. Yes I lost
a few inches but it was worth it to stop it coming apart. I think it
also reduced snagging.
When I cut through my hedge trimmer cable (a black one note!) I fitted
one of these and did the same on all double insulated garden equipment
and availed myself of an orange cable reel that is reserved for garden
use; they never pull apart unintentionally:
Plastic yes but the parts are up close to the appliances so never come
into contact with hard surfaces and have survived considerable use ...
and they are very low cost.
Just be a little wary of the 3 pin inline rubberised connectors. We had
a need for 20 of these at work recently and bought most from a local DIY
shop, speed was of the essence, and a couple of a different brand,
although physically the same from another shop. They were marked L N E
inside to aid connecting correctly. Just a pity that one manufacturer
had LEN and the other manufacturer NEL. They shouldn't have gone bang
if swapped over, but it wouldn't have been good! Fortunately we spotted
it before it got too far.
In our case it would have caused serious problems as we were using them
for 12V dc with L being positive and N being negative.
Similar method should work. offset the crimp joiners by a inch or so and
lay in a short length of stiff wire (coathanger?)to reinforce the joint.
Bind with several layers of self amalgamating tape. to insulate and seal.
Don't see why.
My *preferred* method would be to solder, with each conductor protected
by sticky heat shrink, and sticky heat shrink over the top. I don't
think a "stiffener" is necessary in that case. But I've done a lot of
soldering and used a fair bit of heat shrink. If the OP is happy with
crimping, a crimped repair with heat shrink, self amalgamating tape, or
even just ordinary PVC electrical tape wound on with a fair bit of
tension should make a good repair. The duraplug solution will be quicker
and as others have pointed out, if the failure is near the tool this can
be convenient for storage.
For that matter if the failure is within (say) a metre of the tool it is
probably better to rewire the good piece into the tool, and discard the
odd metre. This assumes the OP is happy to dismantle the tool; in the
old days the wire would invariably terminate in normal screw connectors
(like a 13A plug or socket) but these days spade connections or crimps
are sometimes used. But that is really the most elegant solution if the
lost metre is not a problem.
If the appliance is double insulated it will have the
square-within-square icon on it, if it doesn't have the icon, it will
have a 3 pin lead and you'd use the 3-pin connectors.
RCDs don't need an earth wire to work, if the amount of current going
"out" the Live doesn't equal the amount coming "back" via Neutral, some
has been lost and the RCD will trip.
When you say in half, it really depends on whether the connector is going to
be used to support the cable etc. Personally, I'd not risk such a repair.
There are supposedly garden safe connectors about to lengthen cables. You
pays yer money and takes your chances.
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