I need to break up about 5m x 5m of concrete, varies in depth, seems to
be about 4" max.
I intend to do it over a few weeks, once the weather improves. Would
this be up to the job:
I intend to buy it, then sell on ebay once it's done.
I got a very similar but slightly cheaper one on Ebay (?75GBP) and it
did a similar job without struggling. If the concrete is wholly
bounded by walls with no free edge and you have a big angle grinder it
migfht be worth cutting a coupl of parallel slots about 200mm apart and
im long just to get an edge to start with, concrete being much easier to
break if not in compression. Otherwise best to drill a hole with a big
masonry drill or the pointed breaker. Once you have a edge the
chiselling away 2-4" chunks seems to work best. Won't take more than a
few days, depending how far you have to move the bits.
A drill and a breaker are different beasts. While some SDS drills have a
nominal breaker function (ie you can have the hammer action without the
rotary action), I doubt they are intended for serious breaking. For
example, taking down a brick wall is far less demanding than breaking a
I'm not suggesting the Aldi beast isn't up to the job, I've bought
several of they power tools and been very happy with them. They also
honour their warranty. I'd give it a try and, if it isn't up to the
job, expect them to refund the money with out a problem. It will be
cheap than hiring if it works.
If you can, try and dig out some of the soil under each section as you
go, just enough so the slab isn't supported by the ground, and chip it
I have tackled stuff with a 2kg SDS and you can make progress.
But when I borrowed a full sized jackhammer off a builder, I demolished
a couple of 4" "farmers" concrete slabs in literally a couple of
minutes, leaving me to pick up a lot of small sized bits and stick them
in the skip.
Thanks everyone for the replies.
I have SDSd and couple of small areas, just to see how thick the slab
is. It was much harder work than I thought it'd be. The chisel bit
didn't manage to break the concrete, so a series of holes and cold chisel.
But I think I'll try the sledge hammer approach - I think a mate has one
I can borrow. Much as I'd like a new toy :-)
I had similar about 15 years ago. The concrete was perhaps a bit thicker and
f'ing hard! (I don't know why, as it was only a path).
Tried a 7lb one - bouncy-bouncy. Borrowed a 14 pounder and that /just/
I'm 6' 4" and I forced the hammer down as hard as I could (lifted my feet
off the ground) and kept the force on the hammer after it had hit. Typically
4 - 6 blows, naer the dge, to get it started.
I reckon somebody had installed a 30"-wide runway for a Galaxy!
A lot depends on the cement content of the original mix. Whatever tool
you have, you really need to be working from an edge. Personally, I'd be
happy to invest 100 notes in one of those to save having to use a sledge
hammer too much.
I've found that the sledge hammer approach can spall off bits of the
surface which go flying out at a rapid rate.
Just make sure that when using a sledge hammer that any vehicles are
parked far enough away to prevent them being damaged from flying debis.
Protect any nearby glass.
Reading some of the replies to this problem I really have to question some
of the advice given especially when talking of spending 2-3 days using tool
s not really suited for the job just to save a few quid. The solution is ob
vious hire a breaker, a local hire shop here will hire one out for £35
a day and the job will be done in a couple of hours never mind two days. I
am all for saving money on a job but as for spending days choking on concr
ete saw dust or swinging sledge hammers is worth £35 of my money any d
Also worth considering is that the 6 tons of broken concrete have to be
moved and it may be better to have small pieces to lift/move rather than
large pieces that are at the limit of what the OP can lift. especially
after doing this for a few hours. It may be easy to shovel small pieces
whereas large pieces cannot be moved this way.
I wonder if the slab (4 inches on the edge) has been laid on top of
compacted hardcore requiring more material to be shifted.
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