[?]Concrete fence post repair - is there a suitable filler?

I have a concrete fence post which has cracked, although at the moment it still supports the fence, see the two pictures at:-
http://www.minda.co.uk/files/concretepost01.jpg and...
http://www.minda.co.uk/files/concretepost02.jpg
Digging out the post to completely replace it will be a real pain since it is set in a concrete base so I was wondering if there is a suitable filler that I can purchase and then 'pour' into the cracks to reinforce the post and prevent further crumbling.
Any thoughts/suggestions will be much appreciated.
TIA - Dave.
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On Friday, June 27, 2014 12:12:25 PM UTC+1, Dave Chapman wrote:

You can get an epoxy-based repair mortar, probably Screwfix or similar. Never used it. ISTR that epoxy-based flooring required careful preparation of the old screed to ensure it stayed stuck. I suspect it'd cost more than a new post and I doubt that it will stay repaired for long. But you know that. Best of luck with it.
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On 27/06/14 12:12, Dave Chapman wrote:

Sorry - it's buggered. No amount of "repair" will help there sadly..
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On Friday, 27 June 2014 13:38:14 UTC+1, Tim Watts wrote:

+1
Jim K
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On 27/06/2014 13:44, JimK wrote:

Yup! Buggered!
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Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

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On 27/06/2014 13:38, Tim Watts wrote:

You might be able to extend its life slightly by either epoxy filler or the cheaper alternative of slightly expanding high tack polyurethane glue in the gaps. Basically whatever you do the rusting process will continue and widen the gap probably sooner rather than later.
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Martin Brown
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On 27/06/2014 13:38, Tim Watts wrote:

That can't be true, they have repaired bridge supports with similar problems.
It needs a new post casting around the old one.
Easier to dig it out.
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On 27/06/14 18:46, Dennis@home wrote:

Buggered in any meaningful way... It's not supporting a bridge - the cost of removal is tiny compared to the cost of removal of a broken bridge column with a bridge on top...

yep...
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Dennis@home wrote:

    Easy. Crack the concrete away from the iron bits, you don't need to go much lower than the bottom bolt. It will ideally look a bit castellated and give a good key. Give the iron a thin coat of bitumen and cast a new post in situ but 2 inches taller to cover the iron. You only need to shutter 3 sides and there's enough iron around to give adequate strength. Some neat cement on the join with the original post will probably help, as will a coat of bitumen on the top of the rebuilt post.
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Many thanks for that practical suggestion. For the cost of a small bag of ready-mixed concrete and a bit of shuttering here's the result and I'm well pleased with it:-
http://www.minda.co.uk/files/concretepost03.jpg
All the best - Dave.
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Dave Chapman wrote:

Sounds good

404 unfortunately
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OK for me...
Jim K
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JimK wrote:

It is *now*
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Andy Burns wrote:

Give it a quick rub-down with an angle grinder and the job's a good'un.
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/Andy Burns Andy Burns wrote:

Give it a quick rub-down with an angle grinder and the job's a good'un/q
I'd be inclined to let it cure for a few weeks before setting the ag on it... or just paint with yoghurt / cowsh1t and let nature tone it down for you?
Jim K
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Works fine here.
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On 08/07/14 08:58, Dave Chapman wrote:

Nice result!
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replying to Capitol, Jomo wrote: Does this mean you shutter the original post?
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posted on June 27, 2014, 11:12 am I have a concrete fence post which has cracked, although at the moment it still supports the fence, see the two pictures at:- concretepost01
http://www.minda.co.uk/files/concretepost01.jpg and... concretepost02
http://www.minda.co.uk/files/concretepost02.jpg
Digging out the post to completely replace it will be a real pain since it is set in a concrete base so I was wondering if there is a suitable filler that I can purchase and then 'pour' into the cracks to reinforce the post and prevent further crumbling. Any thoughts/suggestions will be much appreciated. TIA - Dave.
Hmm, yet another lamb to the slaughter of the weird year ignoring home owners club portal to usenet. I have had a post split for longer than this and its still holding together, and actually looks quite rustic, as apposed to rusty where the metal is! grin Brian
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The correct technical term is "fucked".
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