Embedding in concrete and dirt would be similar so far
as both will hold moisture close the timber, accelerating
rot. The post will last longer if set on large gravel or stones
that let moisture drain away from the timber.
You may wish to consider also local rain/snow/ice and
the time it takes to dig a large hole for drainage or a small
hole for the post alone.
no concrete, if a concreted one gets bumped its near impossible to set
it straight, no concrete makes it easy.
I had a mailbox kids liked to take out:( replaced post with a heavy
steel I beam. later had to move it, no concrete made it much easier.
the kids respect that post, once they took out 20 or so but didnt
touch mine, it would of demolished their car.
the 4 by 4 is likely illegal too, but i got sick and tired of the
hassle, and no longer own the home
thanks for all the answers. But is the rock legal? It'd be on public land,
whatever the road easement is called. Who's liable for damaging any vehicle?
We do have a wacky law situation in the US, after all.
Practical idea, though.
I found an old high pressure seam valve at an auction. It was made of
steel and had a big coil spring on the bottom. Cost me about $5.00
I set it in concrete up to the spring. The school bus has backed into
time pushing it all the way back to the ground without harm. In 20
else in the neighborhood has replaced theri's. People are still asking
me what the
heck is that thing.
This subject comes up on here at least yearly. As much as people want to
have tank traps for mailbox posts, in most areas they are illegal, with
varying levels of enforcement. (Usually after county plow guy runs over
it in winter, and they bill the homeowner for repairs.) Mine is about
due for replacement- I'll probably go with a pre-made breakaway post
that drops over a driven pipe. Not one of those fugly rubbermaids that
seems to be standard rural issue these days, tho. I'm in a quiet
subdivision, with no kid 'mailbox baseball' problems that I have noted
in 3 years. If I lived on a busy county 2-laner, I'd likely go with a
spring, or a cantilevered design on a break-away pivot, so if the plow
tags it, it just gets out of the way. I do note pipe or rebar 'halos' on
a lot of the farm mailboxes around here. I imagine that hurts like hell
if you swing a bat into one of those in the dark, but the mailbox stays
undented and on its mounting plate.
re: I do note pipe or rebar 'halos' on a lot of the farm mailboxes
around here. I imagine that hurts like hell if you swing a bat into
one of those in the dark.
An option to the halo is this:
- Put a standard size mailbox inside one of those oversized "package"
- Bolt the smaller one into the larger one so it stays centered
- Pour concrete around the smaller one to fill the gap.
- Mount it on the post and wait for someone to hit it with a bat at
34" long would not be below our frost line, although I don't know if
that is required for mailboxes.
However, I love how the picture and description makes it sound/look so
What are the odds that the user will actually be able to screw the
device 34" into the ground both plumb and level *and* without hitting
At least with a post hole digger plumb and level is not an issue and I
can see into the hole to deal with any obstructions.
Who konws...it might work. Has anybody tried one?
I have set many mailbox posts in my 74 years. I have found that setting in soil
is about the same a setting in concrete - not satisfactory.
Both hold moisture to the post resulting in premature rot. Also, the post will
invariably loosen with use. You have seen mailbox posts tilting forward, the
box sagging at the front. Also, with concrete used to set the post, replacing
the post is a monumental pain in the behind.
What to use? Glad you asked. I recommend using stone ballast; that is, NOT
smooth, rounded gravel. Rather, use the gray stone that has sharp edges. Stone
size should be about 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Why ballast stone? because the
sharp edges cause the stones to wedge together and hold firmly, whereas rounded
gravel like what you might put down for a driveway or to top-dress a landscaping
feature is like marbles - they roll against each other and do not hold together.
Using stone allows the water to drain away from the post. It also allows you to
re-stabilize the post if it should become loose, simply by adding and compacting
a little more stone. I also recommend using landscaping fabric to line the
bottom and sides of the hole, so the stones do not migrate through the soil and
away from the post.
Pressure treated post can last long time But? it needs to be weather treated
every couple years in the summer when is totally dry so that post can absorb
and be well saturated. With out treatment 10-15 years??? pending what part
of country you in.
Just pack them in the dirt. It is a lot easier to get it out when it
is time to replace it.
I am about 50:50 on the replacements around here over the last 30
years. Half get replaced as a maintenance issue of some sort, the
other half are just mowed down by some moron in the middle of the
If you want a post that will last forever, use a 6" PVC pipe full of
concrete with rebar in it.
I may do that myself next time. At least I will get a good look at who
hit it while they are waiting for the tow truck.
Beside the reinforced post, buy an oversize mailbox, center a normal
mailbox inside it and then pour concrete in the gap.
That will be a rude awakening for the next bat-welding moron that takes a
swat at it.
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