Decent mpact driver bits?

Certainly worth getting "proper" impact driver bits. One thing that they have is a slightly narrower shank between the hexagon and the bit, presumably to absorb a bit of the "shock". I tend to use DeWalt (just because they are readily available, and come in a convenient box). Not particularly expensive. I'd normally expect to get a lot more than 10 screws per bit, unless it was a particularly abusive application.

Ok.

I guess that makes sense (given it's an impact driver) in that you want bursts or torque but might want to take that sharp (torque) edges off?

Or is it they need to have some 'give' to protect the bits themselves? [1]

Ok, as good a reason as any, assuming the bits themselves are up to it etc. ;-)

Oh, so we are potentially talking of them being consumables to some degree (and explains why you can buy them in packs of such high number), unlike say a half decent screwdriver or similar spec bit in a drill-driver?

I know some here swear by impact drivers over drill drivers (not sure about straight electric screwdrivers (< my old Bosch one was great)) but from my experiences so far, or the roles so far, I'm still not convinced, especially if I have to go though bits at a rate of knots and can do no more, better or faster than with my existing drill-driver? ;-(

I'll pick up some DeWalts and see how we go (thanks).

Cheers, T i m

... snipped

The impact drivers that I've seen have all had mechanical bit retention

- hold the locking ring forwards to enable the bit to be installed/removed ... snipped

But wouldn't that require the bit having a groove in it? The one I happened to have yesterday didn't.

Another / longer bit I had didn't either but it seemed to be 'sticky' in there (like a magnet)?

The impact driver isn't here but it's probably an older model with Nicad/NiMh batteries (that slide in like a gun clip, not slide on like a slipper) so it's probably quite an old model (FWIW etc).

Cheers, T i m

Even dedicated impact bits will eventually knacker, I think it is to do with the way impact drivers work, but better quality ones will last longer. Ever since I got my impact driver I have never used the drill/driver once to put in a screw and only regret I never an impact driver earlier.

Richard

Well sure, however, there are limits. ;-(

That's the hope. Going to pick up some dedicated De-Walt ones on the way on our exercise walk. ;-)

No, that's what quite a few people say but I do wonder how much of that is a function of the drill-drivers they have used?

Eg, My Stanley Fat Max would break you wrist if you held onto the chuck and pulled the trigger and I have sheared reasonably sized screws off when they have hit a knot or something.

Plus (and this might be a limitation of this old impact driver), my FatMax has a clutch so I can ensure I don't bury a screwhead by accident.

I'm also guessing I could use it as an electric screwdriver in 'hammer' mode but have never had need to.

I feel it's actually the impact action that's self-destructing the bits, not the torque as such?

Then there is the noise ... no subtle working after hours with one of them. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

If they don't have a groove they probably have small notches cut in the corners of the hex profile about 7mm from the back end. The retention mechanism will engage with these.

You need decent bits designed for an ID really - normal steel ones won't last long.

Decent Wiha and Wera diamond TiN/coated last well, but are a bit more pricey:

Also worth getting a hold that locks the bit in place rather than relying on just the magnet.

That more likely... having said that some of the good bits I have are a traditional non "waisted" design.

Partly - I find that on a large project where I might be whizzing in hundreds of screws, a bit will last really well for days, then all of a sudden just crumble and fall apart.

I use the good bits on those as well - its not only that they last well, they also work better - keeping their sharp corners and getting a really good grip on the pozi head for longer.

Once armed with some decent bits, you will get a significant jump in work rate over a DD, and also far less fatigue (to all but your hearing!), since you don't have to push nearly has hard to keep the bit engaged with the screw. So reaching up and driving a screw at arms length is easy with an ID, but very hard going with a normal DD.

Possibly, or just a poor choice of wood. Also sharp corners tend to concentrate stresses.

There not usually a magnet on the built in "chuck", but add on bit holders are available that get a proper grip on (at least some) bits.

Similar to?:

Not much IME (comparing my first ID with my top end (at the time) Makita

That is one area were the ID is nicer to use - they don't transmit anything like the same torque reaction to the user.

Something I was reminded of when doing my patio in the summer. I was using the old Makita with a big mixing paddle in it for doing a barrow of concrete:

Yup IDs never have clutches IME - however with variable speed you can "tickle" a screw in to where you want it and stop.

Not sure that helps much - the hammer action being axial and not rotational.

There is no hammer action in the strict sense - its a rotational hammer.

This is true!

Impact bits latch into my Makita - they are not magnetic. To insert or release I push the collet on the bit holder forward. The back of the bit is shaped to be firmly held by the collet.

The back of the bit is shaped as in

You can buy (magnetic) latching adapters that fit into a impact driver that accept other types (short impact) bits. The short impact bits are too short for the bit holder on my makita so I've used something similar to....

Branded bits with "impact" in the name/description. If found better bits perhaps last 100s of screw operations but they are not indestructible. Poor quality bits can shear on first use with a tough screw.

Today I only ran in 16x 6x70's and 30x 5x100's and I must say it coped very well. I didn't try the drill-driver or a manual screwdriver but it worked pretty well.

(It was some CLS racking for 8 storage boxes for daughter) so I then broke it down into the two ends and the 6 'rails' and took it up to her. She re-assembled it tonight just using my long PZ2 and said the screwdriver was 'the nuts' and it's not in place ready to get loaded up. (I did leave her the ID but she said it was too loud for that time in the flat).

Agreed. I bought 2 x 5 Pz2 DeWalt bits for just over £8 from Toolstation and I'd have to say they felt pretty good. Time will tell how well last. One set is in with the ID and the other the DD.

Pardon?!

No, I noticed that ... or didn't (if you know what I mean).

Noted.

Combination thereof probably.

Cheers, T i m

Ok. If nothing else using the ID today freed up my DD for the clearance drill and I used daughters DD for the countersink (not that I really needed it in such softwoods).

Whilst I don't generally have any issues with that with the FatMax (it's quite substantial so takes some of the kick out of things), I don't think I noticed as much kickback, especially at the final tightening stage.

Oh sure, because that's a fairly constant twisting load.

I 'think' was doing that today, or just using little bursts towards the end.

Good point.

Yeah, that's what I meant, the constant (rotational) pulsing against the screw.

Outside this afternoon, it wasn't so bad (and I was focusing on getting it finished) but my tinnitus levels do seem a bit higher tonight. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

Ah yes, I have seen them ...

The one that I mentioned kept falling out was plain but in hindsight, because it was very short and only just protruded from the chuck in the first place, I didn't even see if it might lock in? ;-(

The DeWalt ones obviously locked in though but again, I was too busy getting on with building to pay much attention to the ID. When I get it back off daughter I'll give it a closer look (and maybe even see if there any instructions for it online).

Cheers, T i m

When I used it today I noticed it had morphed into a Hitachi! All the other facts were correct though. ;-)

I think it's one of these John:

When I get it here I'll put the weak battery on my cycler and see what it's actual capacity is.

If it's really low ... alternatively, if it's 12V, convert it to external power or a diy 3S 18650 Li-Ion + BMS job, as I have all those things here?

Cheers, T i m

Yup some like the pulse method. If the speed control is decent then you should also be able to get the impact rate and "strength" down to a couple of blows per second and not "too hard".

Handy if you forget your ID and find you miss the noise :-)

It certainly puts more stress on the bits - but then again you are driving more power through them (i.e. same amount of work, less time) so something is going to wear faster.

Earplug/defenders might be good.

Although while loud I don't usually feel the noise from an ID being one that I need to wear protection for - the intensity is probably no worse than hammering a nail for example.

Yeah, they do that when left alone in a shed :-)

ok, probably a fairly decent bit of kit all the same.

The best choice would normally be whatever you have a decent charging platform for IMHO.

The charger that is listed on that link of yours above suggests this one: