Decent mpact driver bits?

Nov 10, 2020 Last reply: 5 years ago 33 Replies
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Whilst I get how that (speed) might be of importance to anyone doing it for a living, in many cases (especially where care, accuracy and 'feel' might be important to the outcome), I would generally use a hand driver.

I used the ID yesterday because 1) those things weren't so important (daughter had stated she didn't GAF about the 'look', as long as it worked and was safe (and she knew even my worst efforts would be)), so if a few screws had been over-driven (not flush with the surface), that wouldn't matter and 2), if I had slipped, there was no aesthetic surface to damage (I had used the lengths of CLS she'd collected to best effect, knotless bits for the crossmembers, damaged corners on the back of the legs etc) and 3) we wanted to get it done before it started raining or got dark.

We dropped it off outside her flat and she took it in and assembled it. I offered her the ID but she said she preferred to do it by hand (again, for the control) so left her to it. We ended up going back up there later because she couldn't find a decent PZ2 and was worried she would damage the dead of the screws using a PH driver she had and it was taking quite a bit of effort (mostly because of the poor fit of the driver etc). I left her the ID and she tried it but was too noisy for the flats at that time of night. After a couple of questions (and help from the clamps I also left her on the second visit), she got it all together and it fits in the space like a glove (it actually looks like it's 'fitted', not free standing). A couple of rubber wedges should take out any safety slack I put in there and without making any holes in the property.

Sure.

I generally wear some ear defenders when doing anything that is very loud (and always have) ... or loud over a prolonged period (like I used them when cutting up the timber with the bench saw). But because I was doing the assembly in bursts (clamp, drill, countersink, two screws, rinse-repeat) and was outside, I didn't think it would be needed. Next time I think I will though.

Well, if hammering the nail with a riveting gun ... ;-)

Cheers, T i m

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Hehe.

Yeh, mate generally buys good gear and is as supportive of the use of ID over DD as you are.

This was only softwood and relatively small diameter screws so time will tell.

I sheared a 12mm HSS twist drill off with a DD a while back when it snagged in some sheet steel. It wasn't even spinning, I just pulled the trigger again after it snagged and it snapped straight off across the fluted bit. ;-(

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With my experience of batters and so collection of 'Multi' chargers that shouldn't be an issue.

Yup, that looks like it John (from memory).

Sure, but this would be a 'special' as such, 'because'. ;-)

I've already 3D printed a slide clip adaptor thing that allows me to charge the Malta Liz-Ion battery using one of my multi chargers so might be able to do the same with this pack.

Cheers, T I m

Another vote for the boxes of DeWalt bits.

I always expected bits to last the lifetime of the drill until we had the builders in and they went through boxes of the things like candy.

Still hurts to chuck one, but they are cheap as chips when you buy them by the box full.

Cheers

Dave R

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I went for these (two packs of 5) as I like a bit more bit sticking out of the ID and not sure I'd use the magnetic thing?

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I have has a long PZ2 (from Halfords) that has a magnetic tip and just seems much easier to use than something shorter (other than in confined spaces of course). [1]

+1

I think I'd have a box for the scrap ones to make sure I put them in with my metal recycling (they deserve to live another and longer life as something else). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[1] When I was an IT trainer and presenting the Novell 'Service and Support', 5 day module the delegates would strip a PC down, mobo out, RAM, CPU, FDD, Optical, PSU out etc etc.

We provided (and I recommenced they bought for themselves) the use of such a long screwdriver for working on the PC's as 1) you could easier see what you were doing with your hand out of the way, 2) there was less chance of catching your knuckles on any case / bracket edges 3) the magnetic tip meant you could feed screws into and recover from places you couldn't get your fingers and 4), I think the length of the driver meant it was easier to see if you had it square.

And whilst it was a PZ2, it seemed to fit the small headed screws used on the likes of floppy and optical drives. Something like this:

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Considering the PC's were stripped down and re-assembled once a fortnight for the 5 years I was there presenting S&S, very few of the threads got damaged, cross threaded or stripped, partly I believe because of the ease of use of the long screwdrivers.

+1 for long shafted screwdrivers. I magnetise the screwdriver myself by stroking the bit end across a strong magnet - I use the magnets retrieved from old hard disks.

I just have a drill driver, but even with that I mess up PZ2s. I bought a big box of PZ2 bits. Then I started using Torx and they seem so much better. The ones from Screwfix even throw in a bit with the box of screws.

I tend to use a bit holder similar to this:

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Which can lock bits in place by snapping the sleeve up/down. It also has a magnet to help hold the screws on the end of the bit. (good for picking up lose screws on the ground after you drop em as well!)

I often use my small 7.2V TD020D ID with a long 4" bit holder in the end. Older version of:

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It will whizz screw in and out quickly without being so powerful you risk stripping threads etc. Quite good for the stiff ones into plastic drive frames etc. :-)

Computers tend to use JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screw heads that's why phillips & pozi drivers don't fit.

You can magnetise & de-magnetise screwdrivers quite easily (as I'm sure you know).

I like the way that the technical specs specify how many are in the box but not how long they are.

Does anyone have any experience with these?

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Going by aspect ratio, 50 mm - they look the same as the Saxton ones.

I like the squareness of the fins(?) - should engage well. The Reviews are all 5*...

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Whilst daughter did use my ID the next day and said it was ok, she also tried the other more std length drivers I'd left for her but only rated the long one as 'the dogs'. ;-)

Yeah, I generally do the same on any I want magnetised.

I have used them ... and a fridge magnet in an emergency (other people don't always have a neodymium magnet to hand it seems?) but I've also got an old fashioned reasonably large U section magnet that works pretty well. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

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If assembling say a shed where you would use you ID you mean (and I have had something like that but find it can make the whole thing 'too' long.

The idea of the long hand drivers is that you can sneak into holes and between stuff easier because nothing is in the way (fingers or locking collars), like when you try to access a hex using yer standard (eg, 'short') multi-bit set but find it's down a too deep or narrow hole. ;-(

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Whilst I might (and have) used an electric screwdriver on PC's, I wouldn't suggest someone unfamiliar with tools, especially power tools use them, especially for assembling a PC.

Part of my S&S instruction was to get delegates gauge the feel of a thread that's misaligned *before* it or the thing it's screwing into is stripped, seized or damaged. Quite easy to do when holding a screwdriver by your fingertips, not so easy when pulling the trigger on an electric driver.

Again, I've not come across anything on a PC (in particular) that has required any more force than I could apply with my long No2 PZ driver.

Even if I was assembling PC's on a semi production line environment, I don't think I'd use an electric driver. Dissembling (especially to scrap where it's all thrown into the same box) is different. ;-)

Mate has one of those long thin electric screwdrivers that he uses all the time for working on laptops but then I've seen him rip a bushing out and round a few heads out so ... ;-(

Cheers, T i m

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Phillips doesn't but my PZ2's fitted all the PC screws with no issues?

I do, but thanks. I'm not sure if you do one yourself you can 'just' get the tip magnetised and if not, that means when you put the driver down the entire shaft can get covered in screws. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

But do you really need to know the exact length, rather than just getting a feel for how long they are in general from their picture (although I take your point that they could easily include the length in the details).

I wonder if they come from the same factory in China / India as the DeWalt ones (as they are roughly the same price as the TS offering)?

Cheers, T i m

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